Friday, February 22nd to Monday, February 25th - weekend in Anguilla

Friday morning begins with a visit to the Captanerie in Marina Port Royale.  Having cleared Customs, we are prepared for another Friday escape from Simpson Bay Lagoon.  Obviously, other boats have a similar idea in mind.  There are more than a dozen boats circling the entrance to the canal in anticipation of the 2:30 PM bridge opening on the French side.  Once in Marigot Bay, the sails fill with 15 knots of breeze.  Cutter Loose responds enthusiastically, pleased to be back in her element. 

Our destination for the weekend is the island of Anguilla, just 10 miles north of Marigot.  We are rewarded with an exhilarating beam reach to Anguillita, a tiny coral outcropping off the western coast of Anguilla.  From here, it is a beat towards Prickly Pear Island to the north, then southeast on the opposite tack to our anchorage at Road Bay. 

The anchor is down in Road Bay at 5:45 PM.  The yellow Q flag is hoisted to the spreader.  Since it is late in the day, the customs office is closed.  We will clear customs in the morning.  Cutter Loose is in good company this weekend.  We are joined by Island Packet friends Ray and Donna aboard IP 440 Lenna Mae and Tom and Cary aboard IP 37 Dragon’s Toy. 

The harbor at Road Bay is protected from the east but exposed to the north.  There is a slight swell from the north that is barely noticeable to the human eye.  But the effects of the swell are unmistakable.  All of the boats in the harbor are rolling from side-to-side.  The rolling motion seems out of proportion to the miniscule size of the swell.  Living in the flat water of the Lagoon in recent weeks, we have grown unaccustomed to ocean swells.  Sleep is interrupted by the rolly motion and the squeaking of the mainsheet and boom as it swings from side to side.

Unlike St. Martin, Anguilla is a flat island, some 16 miles in length and 3 miles in width.  With a population of 13,500, Anguilla is an Overseas Territory (formerly referred to as a Crown Colony) of the United Kingdom.  In 1967, Britain combined Anguilla, Nevis and St. Kitts into a single autonomous state.  Anguillans were outraged by this consolidation, preferring instead to remain part of Britain.  In 1980, Anguilla seceded from St. Kitts and Nevis to become a British Crown colony.

Resorts and white sand beaches dot the northern coastline of the island.  Road Bay is the primary port of entry and one of two harbors in Anguilla where overnight anchoring is permitted.  Anguilla strictly regulates the use of its harbors and off-lying islands by cruising yachts.  Special permits are required for the use of day moorings in marine parks. 

Ray and Donna know the territory.  They have been cruising the Caribbean for 13 successive winters.  They graciously invite us to join them on a Saturday morning taxi excursion to the CuisinArt Resort and Spa on the south side of the island.  The architecture faithfully recreates a Mediterranean seacoast resort. Here we are treated to a tour of the resort’s soilless hydroponic greenhouse.  Under the direction of Dr. Howard Resh, all of the lettuce, tomatoes, bell peppers, cucumbers, eggplant and herbs for the resort’s restaurant are cultivated in the greenhouse.





Following the tour, an impromptu Island Packet bocce tournament generates an appetite for lunch, including salads created with fresh ingredients from the greenhouse.  We while away the afternoon lounging by the pool, taking walks on the beach and gathering at the resort's upscale beach bar for cocktails at sunset.  It has been a relaxing and delightful day at Cuisinart…a welcome and dramatic departure from our normal cruising routine.









Shortly after noon on Sunday, a jazz brunch begins at Johno’s restaurant on the beach near the dinghy dock.  This is a popular event as evidenced by the fact that many of the tables are adorned with reserved signs when we arrive.  Once the music begins, a standing room only crowd spills onto the beach.  As a finale to the four hour performance, the final act involves a 20 something female singer with jazz quartet that energizes the house with her voice and stage antics.  Everybody is relaxed, enjoying a meal, the view of the water and grooving to the music. 

On Monday morning, the north swell has risen to the point where four foot waves are breaking on the beach.  Accordingly, we have decided to clear Customs, cutting our visit to Anguilla short.  The swell is now pounding the dinghy dock, making access to the Customs office a real challenge. 

With our clearance in hand, the anchor is up in Road Bay at 11 AM for the short 14 mile sail back to the Lagoon.  Another exhilarating sail is in store for us today.  Huge waves are now breaking on rock formations along the northern coast of Anguilla, sending spray high into the air.  We arrive in Marigot Bay in time for the 2:30 PM bridge opening.  Boats waiting for the opening are being lifted by the north swell, momentarily surfing towards the entrance to the narrow canal.  This is a daunting sight, creating visions of boats surfing down on top of one another in the confines of the canal.  Conditions do not seem to have deterred other vessels from entering the canal from the sea side.  Cutter Loose joins the cue and carefully transits the canal with a generous allotment of space between our bow and the stern of the boat directly in front of us. 

By 3 PM, the anchor is down in the Lagoon.  There is just enough time to deliver our dirty laundry to Shrimpy’s and clear customs before the office of the Captanerie closes for the day.  Later in the evening, Tom and Cary join us aboard Cutter Loose for a game of Mexican train dominoes.  It is comforting to be back in flat water with a good night's sleep virtually guaranteed.   We will remain here for a few days before heading east to St. Barths when the north swell subsides.

Sunday, February 10th to Thursday, February 21st

Cutter Loose has now been in French St. Martin for a week and counting.  One thing is certain.  It is much easier to arrive in these tropical islands than it is to leave.    

On Sunday and Monday, more and more boats enter Simpson Bay Lagoon from Marigot Bay and Simpson Bay, seeking protection from the robust winds and northerly swells that have been forecasted.  For some cruisers, visiting St. Martin is a perpetual dance…anchoring in the Lagoon during periods of unsettled weather and returning to Marigot Bay or Simpson Bay when the north swell has dissipated.  Hundreds of other boats become paralyzed by the comfort and convenience of the Lagoon, making it their permanent home for the season or until the boat is no longer habitable.

Sunday is the first of three days of Carnival celebration here on the French side of St. Martin.  During this period, many shops and services are closed.  Parades are scheduled for each day of the holiday, beginning in mid-afternoon and extending well into the evening.  The procession consists of a series of live bands or disc jockeys performing on flatbed tractor trailer trucks.  These mobile stages consist of giant amplifiers and a mountain of speakers, all powered by huge diesel generators mounted on the flatbed trailer near the cab of the truck.  From a distance of three blocks, the pounding reggae and calypso rhythms are unmistakable.  The volume of the music is overpowering, the bass line reverberating deep in one’s chest.   Musicians dispense small trinkets, toys, candy and beverages to an appreciative audience.   Behind each flatbed trailer is a troupe of young men and women dressed in colorful costumes, gyrating to the pulsating music.    Street vendors tend their barbeque grills, selling food and beverages to the hungry crowd.  This is a family celebration.  Everybody is enjoying the procession through the streets of downtown Marigot.

[caption id="attachment_4483" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Funny Valentine in St. Martin"][/caption]

As predicted, brisk winds from the northeast arrive before daybreak on Tuesday 2/12.  The wind speed here in the Lagoon tops out at 27 knots, making dinghy travel bouncy, wet and generally uncomfortable.  We spend the entire day aboard Cutter Loose, appreciating the sound of the parade from a distance.  In subsequent days as the weather moderates, we resume our exploration of the island, including a romantic Valentine's Day dinner at Cafe de Paris in Marigot, complete with sidewalk magicians.

Sooner or later, every cruiser that passes through French St. Martin meets Mike, the amiable and able Austrian proprietor of Shrimpy’s .  Shrimpy’s is a laundry service and Internet café geared to cruisers.  Shrimpy’s dinghy dock is conveniently located on the canal that connects Marigot Bay and Simpson Bay Lagoon.  Mike is the fount of local knowledge for all things nautical.  He also facilitates the local cruisers net every day except Sunday on VHF 14 at 7:30 AM.  The net begins with the weather report, then moves on to other subjects of interest to the cruising community, including a report from local merchants announcing daily specials and boat-related businesses describing their services.  This is followed by social events, items for sale and safety and security concerns.  After tuning in for a week, we feel as if we are part of the permanent St. Martin cruising community.  Following the morning net, cruisers and merchants scramble to connect with one another on other VHF channels.  In fact, most of the cruisers in the harbor monitor channel 14 to listen for calls from buddy boats and to eavesdrop on the conversations of others.  The variety of languages and dialects on the VHF radio reflect the broad diversity of this international cruising community.

Here in French St. Martin, there are noticeably fewer US flagged vessels than in the Virgin Islands. In the harbors and the Lagoon, there are roughly equal number of boats from the US, France, Canada and the UK, along with a smattering of German, Swiss and Dutch boats thrown in for good measure.

Another subtle difference in St. Martin is the need to be more conscious of personal safety and security issues.  Dinghy theft is reported from time to time on the daily cruiser’s net.  Missing dinghies normally show up at the Gendarmerie a few days after their disappearance, absent their outboard engine.  The standard operating procedure amongst cruisers is to lock one’s dinghy to the dock and to the boat at night.  The occasional purse-snatching is also a public safety concern, especially during the evening hours.  Certain areas of Marigot should be avoided after dark.  However, it is generally safe to dinghy into a well-lighted marina or restaurant at night.  According to Mike at Shrimpy’s, street crime in St. Martin is simply a matter of “haves” versus “have nots”.  The problem is exacerbated by drug use, which quickly transforms its victims into “have nots”.  When an incident involving boater-related crime occurs, it is reported on the morning cruiser’s net so that everybody in the harbor is made fully aware of specific streets in town to be avoided at night.   

Smoking at open-air restaurants, sidewalk cafes and bars is yet another difference between St. Martin and the Virgin Islands.  US residents have come to expect smoke-free public places.  Here in St. Martin, however, smoking is still quite popular, especially amongst Europeans.  An otherwise pleasant dining experience can quickly be thwarted by insensitive smokers.

The nasty northerly swell dissipates on Friday 2/15, enabling Cutter Loose to escape from the Lagoon.  There are a dozen pleasure boats jockeying for position in advance of the 2:30 PM Sandy Ground bridge opening.  Cutter Loose strays slightly outside the unmarked channel where the water depth falls quickly from 9 feet to 4 feet.  We are firmly aground.  Fortunately, a French Customs vessel passes nearby and offers to be of assistance.  Within minutes, we are back in deep water.  By this time, however, the bridge has already closed.  We must drop the hook and wait patiently for the next bridge opening at 5:30 PM.  By 6 PM, Cutter Loose is finally liberated from the Lagoon and anchored securely in Marigot Bay for the night.

[caption id="attachment_4482" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Fun in the sun on the beach at Grand Case"][/caption]

Weekend plans call for a visit to the nearby village of Grand Case, this time by boat.  Tom and Cary of Dragon’s Toy are guests aboard Cutter Loose for the weekend while their boat is under repair in Simpson Bay Lagoon.  An escape from the Lagoon is not complete without getting back in the water.  Our snorkeling expedition to the reef at Rocher Creole is limited today by residual high surf on the ocean side of the island.  We opt for the more protected water on the Bay side of the island.  The clothing-optional beach at Grand Case is full of spectacles, including a parade of young equestrians. 



Following dinner on board, we dinghy ashore to sample the night life on Main Street in Grand Case.  The restaurants are packed with customers and the shops remain open until late in the evening.  The lively and talented band at Blue Martini provides an interesting mix of reggae, blues and soul music, fulfilling our appetite for upbeat entertainment on Saturday night.

[caption id="attachment_4487" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Philipsburg Courthouse, Dutch St. Maarten"][/caption]

On Monday 2/18, we retreat once again to Simpson Bay Lagoon in advance of gusty winds and 10 foot swells out of the northwest during the first half of the week.  St. Martin is feeling the effects of a cold front stalled over DR that is churning up the Atlantic hundreds of miles to the northwest.   The Lagoon is filled with whitecaps on Tuesday 2/19, making travel by dinghy a soggy proposition.  The day passes quickly aboard Cutter Loose, tackling chores, reading books and playing board games.  The weather gradually moderates on Wednesday, which permits further exploration ashore via dinghy, particularly of the Dutch side of the Lagoon.  The grocery stores, restaurants and shops on the Dutch side feel more American and less foreign that Marigot and Grand Case on the French side.  Quite by accident, we stumble upon Caribbean 1500 boats Comocean and Escapade near the dinghy dock at Simpson Bay Marina.  It feels good to reunite with acquaintances from our ocean passage in November. 



The weekend weather appears favorable for another Friday escape from the Lagoon.  The plan is to sail to Anguilla with Island Packet friends from Lenna Mae and Dragon's Toy.

Carnival celebration in French St. Martin

Saturday, February 9th - Tour de St. Martin

[caption id="attachment_4436" align="alignright" width="211" caption="Desdimona, canine crew member of Tovarish"][/caption]

Today’s excursion involves a tour of the island by rental car with boating friends Cary and Tom of Dragon’s Toy and LeAnn, Ron and boat hound Desdemona of Tavorish.  Utilizing a rental car is the path of least resistance when it comes to sightseeing around St. Martin.  Moving about from the French side to the Dutch side and vice versa by vehicle does not require customs clearance.  However, moving the boat across the international border requires paperwork and fees to clear out of the French side as well as paperwork and fees to enter the Dutch side.  The clearance fees are reasonable but the process is somewhat cumbersome and time-consuming.

By 9 AM, we arrive via dinghy at Barnacles on the airport side of Simpson Bay Lagoon where the rental vehicle awaits.  Traveling south, the first destination of the day is Philipsburg.  The outskirts of town are developed with large retail establishments including Cost U Less, the Gran Marche supermarket complex and a giant, two-story Ace hardware store.  Access to the waterfront is provided by a series of narrow one-way cobblestone streets.  There is one cruise ship at dock today.  Passengers are exploring the shops and restaurants along the waterfront promenade.  Already the beach chairs are beginning to fill up for the day.  On the tidy interior streets, there is the usual assortment of jewelry stores and clothing shops that cater to the cruise boat tourists.  By mid-morning, we are overdue for our daily fix of croissant and espresso.  But to our dismay, Philipsburg is on the Dutch side of the island where there are no patisseries.  This is a sure sign that it is time to return to French St. Martin.

The next stop is at Oyster Bay on the east side of the island.  This spot brings back memories of a fun-filled charter vacation here in 2001 with boat buddies Hayden and Radeen of Island Spirit.   Both the Sunsail and the Moorings charter fleet are based at Captain Oliver’s Marina.  From this harbor, the island of St. Barth’s is clearly visible 20 miles to the east…a preview of coming attractions.

From Oyster Bay, it is a short drive to Grand Case, a quiet village with a picturesque beach on the northern coast of French St. Martin.  We make a mental note of the dozen or so yachts anchored in Grand Baie.  It would be delightful to spend a few days in this harbor aboard Cutter Loose once the weather becomes settled.  The main street of the village supports dozens of French restaurants and small hotels that front on the beach.  Grand Case is a popular destination for dining.  After a delectable lunch at L’Escapade, a stroll along the beach sets the tone for our next stop at Orient Bay.

Orient Beach is perhaps the most popular sun and white sand destination on the island.  The beach is covered with reclining chairs, bars and volleyball courts along with hundreds of people of all shapes, sizes and colors.  Every imaginable watersports toy is available for rent.  Since this is a clothing optional beach, many people leave their inhibitions behind and come here for a well-rounded outdoor fun-in-the-sun experience.  This adds considerable interest to our relaxed stroll from one end of the beach to the other…all part of the laid-back island experience.

The final stop of the afternoon is Sunset Grill, a beach bar located right at the end of the runway of Princess Juliana Airport.  Visitors and locals alike gather on the beach to watch the arriving aircraft pass close overhead.  At the bar, a schedule of flight arrivals is posted on a bulletin board.  The voice communication between the tower and pilots is broadcasted over the bar’s public address system.  Departures are also interesting to observe. 

Departing aircraft hold their position at the end of the runway until their engines achieve sufficient thrust to commence their roll towards takeoff.  During this period of time, the backwash from the high revving engines creates a sandstorm on the beach.  Despite posted signs warning of danger, adventurous thrill seekers position themselves on the beach directly behind the runway in an effort to remain standing erect amidst the overpowering wash from the jet engines.  Some attempt to become airborne.  Most of the participants are thrown to the sand or pushed downwind into the water.  This scene is pure entertainment…a must-see for anyone visiting St. Martin.

After sunset, it is back to the dinghy at Barnacle's where we enjoy a light snack and a libation while recounting the highlights of today's Tour de St. Martin.  Before calling it a night, we agree to meet again tomorrow at the Carnival parade in downtown Marigot.

Monday, February 4th to Saturday, February 9th - St. Martin

After a two hour nap to regain energy lost during our overnight crossing of Anegada Passage, we are ready to begin our exploration of St. Martin. 

[caption id="attachment_4438" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="view of Marigot with Simpson Bay Lagoon upper left"][/caption]

The island of St. Martin is divided into two distinct countries.  The French side, including the capital city of Marigot, is on the north side of the island while the Dutch side is to the south.  Most cruisers congregate on the French side because the clearance and port fees are less expensive.  The big cruise ships call at Phillipsburg, the capital of the Dutch side of the island. 

St. Martin is a major yachting center.  There are dozens of marinas, primarily catering to mega yachts.  The local marine service industry is vast.  Virtually any type of marine commodity or service can be found here.  In fact, St. Martin is the general commercial nucleus of the Leeward and Windward Islands.  Residents of other islands come here to purchase appliances and other big ticket items.  There is no language barrier in St. Martin as local merchants speak both French and English fluently.

The first step in clearing Customs in Marigot is a visit to the ATM machine to obtain Euros, which will be needed to pay our clearance and port fees.  Then it is on to the Captainerie to clear in.  The clearance fee is 35 Euro or about $50 which includes the first day of port fees for the privilege of anchoring in Marigot Bay.  Thereafter, the daily anchorage fee is .25 Euro per meter times 15 meters or about $5.20 per day.  These port fees are fair because they cover the cost of garbage disposal and access to dinghy docks throughout the French side.  After clearing in, it is a short walk to the closest patisserie to sample the croissants.  This routine quickly becomes a daily habit.  Boulangeries and patisseries are everywhere…a major advantage of being on the French side rather than the Dutch side of the island.  The town of Marigot is a collection of small retail shops and kiosks that cater to the tourist crowd.  Marigot offers an abundance of sidewalk cafes and restaurants, including French, Creole, Indian and Morrocan.  From noon until 2 PM, most of the shops in town close while the restaurants and patisseries become packed with tourists who travel to Marigot via excursion bus from the cruise ships in Phillipsburg. 

Unlike many places in the USVI and BVI, wifi is unavailable in the harbor other than through the 3G wireless network which requires a SIM card from the local telephone service.  Since our stay here will be brief, we elect not to purchase a SIM card.  Our only other alternative is to carry laptops ashore in the dinghy in search of free wifi spots at local bars, restaurants and patisseries.  It is not unusual to see customers sitting in patisseries, staring into their electronic devices.  During trips ashore in the dinghy, there is always a threat of a squall and/or the danger of being swamped by the wake of a passing go-fast boat.  It is difficult to insure the protection of our computers while in the dinghy.  We visit wifi hotspots in Marigot only during settled weather.  This explains, in part, why posts to this blog are less frequent than they have been in the past.

It is Carnival week in Marigot.  On Thursday, the attraction of the evening is the Miss Elegant Plus Size pageant at the town amphitheater.  Before a panel of judges, four finalist contestants compete for the honor of being crowned Miss Elegant Plus Size Queen.  In front of a wildly appreciative audience, each contestant is required to dance and strut across the stage before explaining why she is deserving of being selected Queen.  This year, the crown goes to Ms. Jeanette Annicette who began her performance by dressing as a construction worker and being hoisted onto the stage by a truck with a hydraulic lift...not your typical beauty pageant.

On Thursday afternoon, the anchor is up and Cutter Loose is on time for the 2:30 PM bridge opening at Sandy Ground on the French side.  Regrettably, we must abandon the beauty of Marigot Bay with its turquoise water and tantalizing views of Anguilla to the north.  The weather forecast calls for several days of 25 knot ENE winds and 12 foot northerly swells early next week.  Since it is exposed to the north and northeast, Marigot Bay will become an untenable anchorage during the forthcoming period of unsettled weather.  Accordingly, we have decided to move inland through the canal to the convenience and relative protection of Simpson Bay Lagoon.  

The Lagoon is a shallow, land-locked body of dark green murky-colored water covering 12 square miles. Inside, we are protected from ocean swells.  There is a well-established community of cruisers that live in the Lagoon year round.    Most boats remaining in St. Martin for longer than a week end up anchoring in Simpson Bay Lagoon. All of the marinas and boatyards are located here.  Some boats that enter the Lagoon never make it out.  Some are here for the convenience of dinghying to marine services, foodstores, bars and restaurants.  Some cruisers operate a business out of their anchored boat while others have secured local employment and commute to work via dinghy.  Some boats are here seeking protection from unsettled weather. 

There are literally hundreds of boats at anchor in the Lagoon, some of which are sunken wrecks while others are derelict...victims of past hurricanes.  Apart from the occasional wake from a go-fast boat, the water inside the Lagoon is usually quite calm.   Princess Juliana Airport is located on the west shore of the Lagoon, providing a source of daily entertainment watching the big Air France Boeing 747s and other airships land and take off from this facility.   Anchoring in the Lagoon is both a blessing and a curse.  We appreciate the protection from wind and wave, but we prefer the pristine water and swimming opportunities of a secluded anchorage.

Saturday’s plan calls for renting a vehicle to tour other parts of the Island.  The next post will report on this and other adventures in paradise.

Sunday, February 3rd to Monday, February 4th - Anegada Passage

 

Notwithstanding the temptation of the cruiser’s Super Bowl gathering at Saba Rock on Sunday afternoon, today’s weather window for the 85 mile passage from Virgin Gorda to St. Marten is too good to pass up.  The anchor is up in North Sound at 4:45 PM.  Our departure is timed to place us in St. Marten shortly after sunrise on Monday morning.  Our course takes us north through the well-marked North Sound channel, then east into Necker Passage, avoiding the lobster pots with the aid of the late afternoon sun.  At sunset, we clear Parajos Point, the easternmost land mass of Virgin Gorda.

Since the wind is from the east and our course to St. Marten is 109 degrees true, we are destined to  motorsail the entire distance to our destination.  The swell, taken together with 3 to 4 foot seas creates an awkward pitching and rolling motion on the relatively shallow water of the coastal shelf surrounding Virgin Gorda.  As the water depth increases to 4,000 feet, the motion dissipates and Cutter Loose settles into a comfortable stride.  The wind speed tonight ranges from 5 to 8 knots and the star-studded sky is dark and perfectly clear...ideal conditions for a crossing of the Anegada Passage.

Following our normal procedure on overnight passages, we stand one hour watches.  While off watch, it is possible to stretch out in the cockpit and enjoy a cat nap.  A mug of hot tea helps to revive the senses when returning to the helm at the top of the hour.  Tonight there is a knot of current setting Cutter Loose to the north.  We must steer a course to the south of our destination to compensate for the set.  It is reassuring to have the chart plotters back in service in order to minimize our cross-track error and keep us on course for Marigot Bay on the north coast of St. Marten.

On radar, we have been tracking three other eastbound sailboats tonight, all of which are unknown to us but traveling to the same destination.  Because there are no major ports along our route, we are expecting a quiet night with light traffic.  To our surprise, the 998 foot cargo ship Cape Frontier is southbound through the Anegada Passage bound for Columbia.  Her light pattern is clearly visible off our port bow at a range of 8 miles.  AIS data on the navigation chart plotter indicates that Cape Frontier is making 20 knots.  On her current course, she will intersect with Cutter Loose with less than a quarter of a mile of clearance…too close for comfort.  After several conversations on VHF 16 in an effort to overcome the language barrier, the night watch on Cape Frontier agrees to alter course, instructing us to maintain our current course and speed.  This black behemoth in the night crosses our bow within three-quarters of a mile.  An hour later, another 900 foot southbound cargo ship passes a few miles astern.  So much for the quiet evening we anticipated.  We are thankful that our chart plotters are functioning again. They are our eyes and ears, especially during an overnight passage. 

Shortly after midnight, an eerie orange glow begins to emerge from the eastern horizon.  It is the rising smiley face moon, giving the appearance of a juicy slice of cantaloupe being served up on a watery platter.  Low in the sky, the moon glow reflects off the crests of the waves.  It is a gorgeous beginning to a new day. 

Barely perceptible at first, a series of four flashing red lights appear on the eastern horizon.   Still 20 miles from St. Martin, we are seeing navigational aids mounted high in the mountain tops above Marigot.   First light comes at 5:30 AM, revealing the intricate land features of St. Martin.  For a brief period, we are blinded by the sunrise on final approach to the harbor.  At 7:50 AM, the anchor is down in Marigot Bay and the yellow quarantine flag is raised to the spreaders.  Customs can wait for a few hours.  It is time to enjoy a few hours of uninterrupted sleep before going ashore.

The first 100 days

Cruising the Virgin Islands has been one of those infrequent instances in life in which the actual realization of a goal has been far better than the anticipation.  The months leading up to our departure were filled with voyage preparation, checklists, boat maintenance, new projects, spare parts, selecting crew and provisioning Cutter Loose for 10 days at sea and a two year tour of the Caribbean.  Those months were filled with anxiety and an overwhelming feeling of being rushed and unprepared.  In the final days before our departure from Hampton, VA, Hurricane Sandy (our second hurricane encounter in as many years) further tested our resolve.  As the saying goes, the most difficult part of every journey is the preparation and the first step.

One hundred days have passed since our departure from Osprey Point Marina in Rock Hall, MD on October 23, 2012.  During this period of time, 2100 nautical miles have slipped beneath the keel of Cutter Loose, including a 1500 mile bouncy ocean passage from Hampton, VA to the island of Tortola in the British Virgin Islands.  The satisfaction and elation of having safely completed this passage was one of the most gratifying cruising experiences of our lives.  Our confidence level in Cutter Loose and in our own seamanship has never been higher.  Yet we continue to learn new things every day about the boat, ourselves and our surroundings.  The continual learning process is one of the things we enjoy most about life afloat.

The reward for our 9 day ocean passage has been well worth the effort.  During the past 10 weeks, we have become thoroughly familiar with the nooks and crannies of the Virgin Islands, one of the most magnificent cruising areas in the world.   Since our arrival, the pace aboard Cutter Loose has slowed dramatically, providing an opportunity for relaxation, reflection and ample time to gaze at the scenic grandeur of these volcanic mountains that rise sharply from the crystal clear turquoise water of the Caribbean.   Our days have been filled with lazy mornings, sailing short distances to new destinations, reading, swimming, snorkeling, strolling the beaches and admiring dramatic sunsets. 

Repairs to navigation equipment on board Cutter Loose have extended our stay in the Virgin Islands, allowing sufficient time for a thorough exploration of this tropical paradise.  In the process, we have learned important practical survival skills such as where to find the most protected anchorages, how to hide from northerly swells, the location of the best grocery stores, Laundromats and restaurants, the most convivial  and affordable happy hours and the most secluded bays and beaches.  Our time here has also rewarded us with ample opportunities to interact with local residents and spend quality time with new and old friends.  Perhaps best of all, there are still plenty of unexplored places to investigate when we return to the Virgins next year.

With a little more than three months remaining, we have reached the midpoint of our winter cruise.  There is no specific itinerary, other than to arrive in the island nation of Grenada by early May in order to lay up Cutter Loose for hurricane season.  Up until this point, our entire lives have revolved around a rigid calendar determined largely by others.  The absence of a fixed schedule is what makes cruising both relaxing and rewarding at the same time.  The spontaneity of deciding whether to pause for another day in a favorite place or move on to another destination is the ultimate in personal freedom.  Other than limiting factors such as weather, we are in substantial control of our destiny.  Ultimately, it is the stimulation of being continually immersed in new surroundings that makes the cruising experience worthwhile.

Each night before retiring for the evening, we observe the moon and stars.  Will it remain clear?  Or can we expect rain overnight?  Each morning, we take in our surroundings, wondering whether we are still in a state of dream-induced sleep or whether we are really in this incredible place.

Soon we will begin the next phase of our winter cruise…a tour of the Leeward Islands.  Stay tuned for the exciting details.



Shells sink

Dreams float

Life’s good

On our boat

 

Jimmy Buffet

Monday, January 28th to Sunday, February 3rd

By midday on Monday, Cutter Loose is underway to the now familiar destination of Red Hook on St. Thomas for a final visit with Neal before departing the Virgin Islands. Our recently rebuilt wind speed/direction instrument has been behaving erratically.  At certain times, the wind speed reading is errant.  At other times, the wind direction pointer remains stationery in the 6 o’clock position.   Ironically, the masthead anemometer is spinning freely and the wind vane is moving in sync with the wind direction.  For some unknown reason, the wind instrument in the cockpit is not getting the message.   

During our afternoon consultation with Neal, he informs us that another trip to the top of the mast will be required to repair/replace the wiring socket that connects the masthead unit to the cockpit wind instrument.  It would be preferable to accomplish this on a calm day because soldering may be required.  Since it is breezy today and the harbor at Red Hook is exposed to the east, we agree to try again tomorrow.

[caption id="attachment_4390" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Lorenzo encourages us to sail the Med"][/caption]

On Tuesday, the wind is still howling through the harbor.  Typically, the calmest period of the day occurs at sunrise and again at sunset.  Today, however, there is no break in the brisk easterlies.  Yet another night at American Yacht Harbor marina will be required in order to tackle this project early on Wednesday morning.  During our stay at AYH, we befriend our dock neighbor, Lorenzo, a resident of Rome, Italy.  Lorenzo introduces us to nautical charts of Italy on his iPad.  In the process, he makes a compelling argument for cruising the Mediterranean.  Later that evening, we meet friends Tom and Cindy for dinner.

Neal arrives at the dock bright and early on Wednesday morning.  By 9 AM, the repair is complete and Cutter Loose is eastbound for a return visit to Francis Bay.  The forecast calls for windy and squally weather conditions during the next 48 hours.  Francis Bay is the ultimate place to hide in a blow since it is surrounded on three sides by mountains.  Alternating periods of rain and sun with 18 to 25 knot winds ensue through Friday morning, but the water in the Bay remains relatively calm.  During this layover in Francis Bay, we study the cruising guide for the Leeward Islands in anticipation of our forthcoming transit of the Anegada Passage to St. Martin.  The long range forecast at www.passageweather.com  is favorable for a crossing to St. Martin early next week.

As a pleasant surprise, Tom and Carey of Dragon’s Toy swing by in the dinghy on Wednesday afternoon.  Over cocktails aboard Cutter Loose that evening, they describe their recent visit to Culebra, Vieques and the mainland of Puerto Rico.  Like us, they are headed down island and are looking for a weather window for the crossing to St. Marten.  We agree to stage at North Sound, Virgin Gorda on Saturday.

Under improving conditions on Friday, Cutter Loose enters Funghi Passage and into the Narrows of Sir Francis Drake Channel for a brief stop at West End, Tortola.  BVI Customs officials in West End graciously permit us to clear in from USVI and clear out for an anticipated February 4^th departure to St. Martin, all in one step. 

[caption id="attachment_4391" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Mia, Pat and Laurie"][/caption]

Having completed the official entrance and exit formalities, we press on to a stop at Nanny Cay Marina, the site of our initial landfall in BVI.  Here we will visit with Caribbean 1500 friends Ken and Laurie from Adagio before they fly home to Rhode Island next week.  Joining Ken and Laurie at the dock to catch our lines is none other than Mia Karlsson, the personable Swedish blonde from the World Cruising Club who greeted us when we made landfall at Nanny Cay Marina on November 13^th.  This is an unexpected déjà vu reunion.  Unbeknownst to us, Mia arrived at Nanny Cay a few hours earlier having just completed a transatlantic crossing from the Canary Islands.  We pass the afternoon and evening with Ken and Laurie, enjoying relaxed conversation with them at the pool, in the cockpit of Adagio and at dinner.  Getting to know these folks was one of the highlights of our Caribbean 1500 experience.  We will surely miss being in their company. 

[caption id="attachment_4389" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Laurie and Ken of Adagio"][/caption]

After final goodbyes on Saturday morning, Cutter Loose is eastbound once again to Virgin Gorda.  The easterlies are calm today at 10 knots, which makes for a smooth and rapid trip to North Sound.  At this anchorage, we have access to the Internet through Saba Rock wifi.  This enables us to check the weather forecast frequently. 

On Sunday afternoon, Passageweather indicates a period of calm weather overnight with winds less than 15 knots out of the east and seas less than two feet.  Since our destination is to the east, we expect to motorsail the entire distance.  Based on the favorable weather forecast, the optimum time to depart North Sound for the 80 mile passage to Marigot Bay in St. Martin is 5 PM.  Cutter Loose should arrive in Marigot shortly after sunrise on Monday morning.