Cutter Loose is underway from Man-O-War Cay on a rising tide, bound for Marsh Harbour, the provisioning capital of Abaco. This is an opportunity to restock the galley with fresh fruits and vegetables from Maxwell’s Grocery Store. The produce is very fresh and in good supply today. Presumably, the supply ship arrived in port earlier in the day.
A 2 PM stop at Da Bes Yet Bakery proves less productive, but entertaining nonetheless. Dialogue as follows. What kind of freshly baked bread do you have today? De whole wheat bread being made right now. When may we return to buy a loaf? De bread be ready at 4 PM. Whereupon, we leave and return to Da Bes Yet Bakery at 4 PM. Dialogue as follows. We wish to buy one loaf of Da Bes whole wheat bread, please. Oooh, soddy. De bread eese still rising. When may we return to buy a loaf? De bread be ready at 6 PM. What time do you close today? Close at 5 today. OK, no problem, we’ll see you tomorrow.
During the short trip from Man-O-War to Marsh Harbor today, an important milestone is achieved. We have logged 2500 miles aboard Cutter Loose since setting off on our winter cruise on October 22nd. The first mate and executive chef of Cutter Loose gets a well-deserved break from the galley as we celebrate our accomplishment over a libation at Curly Tails, followed by dinner at Jamie's Place.
Saturday, March 31, 2012
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
Sunday, March 25th through Tuesday, March 27th - lazy days at Man-O-War Cay
[caption id="attachment_3363" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Increasing cloud cover to the northwest at sunset"]
[/caption]
Sunday dawns a bright and sunny day with 20 knots of wind clocking from the southwest to the west and barely a cloud in the sky at Man-O-War Cay. Sirius marine weather radar depicts a cold front advancing through the Florida peninsula, but at a snail’s pace. Late in the afternoon, billowy cumulus clouds begin to appear on the horizon to the northwest. Weather radar shows a line of thunderstorms in advance of the front, but these appear to be passing to the north and east of Man-O-War. After sunset, an impressive light show to the northwest makes for dramatic evening entertainment. We retire at 10 PM, secure in the protection afforded by the harbor and cautiously hopeful that the squall line will pass to the north and east. At 11 PM, we are awakened to the sound of raindrops, thunder and a freshening wind out of the northwest. During the next hour, the squall produces pelting rain and wind speeds of 35 knots gusting to 40. The wind shift causes Cutter Loose to dance around her mooring, but the water in this cozy harbor remains relatively flat. By midnight, the storm has moved on to the southeast and stars begin to reappear in the night sky.
Man-O-War Cay is primarily a working waterfront community. Although there are many visiting yachts in the harbor, tourism in general is not actively promoted. There are no guest homes or hotels. Private homes are primarily modest, working class dwellings, although there are several larger vacation homes perched on the bluff overlooking the gorgeous Atlantic Ocean beach. Seasonal slipholders at Man-O-War Marina tell us that the solitude and the absence of tourism is precisely why they return here year after year. When they need supplies, a meal or entertainment, it is a short day trip to Marsh Harbour or Hopetown.
[caption id="attachment_3354" align="alignright" width="300" caption="New Albury 27 hull and liner"]
[/caption]
The history of Man-O-War is steeped in boatbuilding. The vast majority of residents are Caucasian, descendants of loyalists. The Albury boatyard builds fiberglass center console outboard power boats in the 20 to 30 foot range. Man-O-War is the home base for the Albury Ferry which operates a passenger ferry service connecting the major harbors in Abaco. Then there is the Albury Sail Shop that sells various types of bags made from sailcloth. Joe Albury’s studio and gift shop is located next to Andy Albury’s woodworking shop . And, of course, there is the Albury Harbor Grocery store. In fact, the Albury family seems to run just about everything in this town.
[caption id="attachment_3358" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Christian High School"]
[/caption]
Man-O-War residents are devout in their faith. There is an unmistakable evangelical fervor in this community, expressed through hymns as background music in the shops, bumper stickers on many of the golf carts and bible verses printed on signs in the front yards of homes. On an island of 300 residents, there is a both a public high school and a Christian high school. Alcoholic beverages are not available for sale on the island. There are no bars and only one restaurant on Man-O-War Cay. If you fancy a beer with your burger, you are out of luck. The sale of alcoholic beverages in restaurants is prohibited. The upside of this phenomenon is that in the absence of bars with live bands, the harbor is very quiet at night.
No visit to Man-O-War Cay is complete without a stop at Lola’s Bakery. Lola and her husband bake fresh bread and cinnamon rolls daily in the kitchen of their home on Cemetary Lane. Lola is an exogamist, having married an outsider from Cherokee Sound, about 25 miles to the south.
[caption id="attachment_3361" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lola's in-home bakery"]
[/caption]
A visit to the Post Office yields more interesting information. Mail posted this morning will arrive in Miami in ten to fourteen days. We are hopeful that our housekeeper is not in dire need of payment. The check is in the mail, Nora. We learn that the Postmaster’s daughter is studying at the University of Maryland. Young Bahamians who wish to further their education typically attend college in the U.S. While in school, they return home to the Bahamas infrequently. After graduation, they pursue employment opportunities abroad. As a result, the population of the Bahamas is aging and families are becoming increasingly fragmented.
[caption id="attachment_3360" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Lignan-Vitae - National tree of Abaco"]
[/caption]
As usual, the more fascinating social encounters take place in the laundry. Today we meet a variety of cruisers including a fearless young couple from the Faroe Islands. For the geographically challenged, the Faroe Islands are located in the inhospitable waters of the North Atlantic midway between Iceland and Scotland. It is a self-governing country under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. Faroese is the primary language spoken in the islands. Follow this link for a primer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTj26z1KYV8. This adventurous couple is cruising aboard a sailboat with their six month old, blue eyed daughter. When their maternity leave expires, they will return home. The boat will remain in the Bahamas, awaiting their next adventure. Our risk-taking tolerance seems miniscule in comparison to that of this young family.
[caption id="attachment_3355" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Atlantic Ocean beach at Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]
These days at Man-O-War Cay are filled with relaxing walks on the beach, afternoons spent reading in the cockpit and evening board games in the salon. The relative ease of cruising in the Sea of Abaco invites this type of behavior. It feels as comfortable as a well-worn pair of jeans. In a few weeks, it will be time to think about sailing Cutter Loose back to the U.S. But for now, we'll continue to bask in the laid back lifestyle of the Bahamas.
[/caption]Sunday dawns a bright and sunny day with 20 knots of wind clocking from the southwest to the west and barely a cloud in the sky at Man-O-War Cay. Sirius marine weather radar depicts a cold front advancing through the Florida peninsula, but at a snail’s pace. Late in the afternoon, billowy cumulus clouds begin to appear on the horizon to the northwest. Weather radar shows a line of thunderstorms in advance of the front, but these appear to be passing to the north and east of Man-O-War. After sunset, an impressive light show to the northwest makes for dramatic evening entertainment. We retire at 10 PM, secure in the protection afforded by the harbor and cautiously hopeful that the squall line will pass to the north and east. At 11 PM, we are awakened to the sound of raindrops, thunder and a freshening wind out of the northwest. During the next hour, the squall produces pelting rain and wind speeds of 35 knots gusting to 40. The wind shift causes Cutter Loose to dance around her mooring, but the water in this cozy harbor remains relatively flat. By midnight, the storm has moved on to the southeast and stars begin to reappear in the night sky.
Man-O-War Cay is primarily a working waterfront community. Although there are many visiting yachts in the harbor, tourism in general is not actively promoted. There are no guest homes or hotels. Private homes are primarily modest, working class dwellings, although there are several larger vacation homes perched on the bluff overlooking the gorgeous Atlantic Ocean beach. Seasonal slipholders at Man-O-War Marina tell us that the solitude and the absence of tourism is precisely why they return here year after year. When they need supplies, a meal or entertainment, it is a short day trip to Marsh Harbour or Hopetown.[caption id="attachment_3354" align="alignright" width="300" caption="New Albury 27 hull and liner"]
[/caption]The history of Man-O-War is steeped in boatbuilding. The vast majority of residents are Caucasian, descendants of loyalists. The Albury boatyard builds fiberglass center console outboard power boats in the 20 to 30 foot range. Man-O-War is the home base for the Albury Ferry which operates a passenger ferry service connecting the major harbors in Abaco. Then there is the Albury Sail Shop that sells various types of bags made from sailcloth. Joe Albury’s studio and gift shop is located next to Andy Albury’s woodworking shop . And, of course, there is the Albury Harbor Grocery store. In fact, the Albury family seems to run just about everything in this town.
[caption id="attachment_3358" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Christian High School"]
[/caption]Man-O-War residents are devout in their faith. There is an unmistakable evangelical fervor in this community, expressed through hymns as background music in the shops, bumper stickers on many of the golf carts and bible verses printed on signs in the front yards of homes. On an island of 300 residents, there is a both a public high school and a Christian high school. Alcoholic beverages are not available for sale on the island. There are no bars and only one restaurant on Man-O-War Cay. If you fancy a beer with your burger, you are out of luck. The sale of alcoholic beverages in restaurants is prohibited. The upside of this phenomenon is that in the absence of bars with live bands, the harbor is very quiet at night.
No visit to Man-O-War Cay is complete without a stop at Lola’s Bakery. Lola and her husband bake fresh bread and cinnamon rolls daily in the kitchen of their home on Cemetary Lane. Lola is an exogamist, having married an outsider from Cherokee Sound, about 25 miles to the south. [caption id="attachment_3361" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lola's in-home bakery"]
[/caption]
A visit to the Post Office yields more interesting information. Mail posted this morning will arrive in Miami in ten to fourteen days. We are hopeful that our housekeeper is not in dire need of payment. The check is in the mail, Nora. We learn that the Postmaster’s daughter is studying at the University of Maryland. Young Bahamians who wish to further their education typically attend college in the U.S. While in school, they return home to the Bahamas infrequently. After graduation, they pursue employment opportunities abroad. As a result, the population of the Bahamas is aging and families are becoming increasingly fragmented. [caption id="attachment_3360" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Lignan-Vitae - National tree of Abaco"]
[/caption]As usual, the more fascinating social encounters take place in the laundry. Today we meet a variety of cruisers including a fearless young couple from the Faroe Islands. For the geographically challenged, the Faroe Islands are located in the inhospitable waters of the North Atlantic midway between Iceland and Scotland. It is a self-governing country under the sovereignty of the Kingdom of Denmark. Faroese is the primary language spoken in the islands. Follow this link for a primer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTj26z1KYV8. This adventurous couple is cruising aboard a sailboat with their six month old, blue eyed daughter. When their maternity leave expires, they will return home. The boat will remain in the Bahamas, awaiting their next adventure. Our risk-taking tolerance seems miniscule in comparison to that of this young family.
[caption id="attachment_3355" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Atlantic Ocean beach at Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]These days at Man-O-War Cay are filled with relaxing walks on the beach, afternoons spent reading in the cockpit and evening board games in the salon. The relative ease of cruising in the Sea of Abaco invites this type of behavior. It feels as comfortable as a well-worn pair of jeans. In a few weeks, it will be time to think about sailing Cutter Loose back to the U.S. But for now, we'll continue to bask in the laid back lifestyle of the Bahamas.
Sunday, March 25, 2012
Saturday, March 24th
A cold front exiting the southeast coast of the U.S. is headed towards the Bahamas on Sunday, causing us to re-think our plan to remain in Little Harbor. Granted, the harbor here is one of the best in Abaco in terms of the protection it affords from a blow. But a secondary cold front expected to move through the area on Tuesday translates to winds with a northerly component beginning Sunday through Thursday. We must either travel north today in calm weather or remain in Little Harbor until next Thursday.
[caption id="attachment_3351" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Narrow entrance to Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]
We decide to sail north in the Sea of Abaco to the all-weather protection of the harbor at Man-O-War Cay. This strategy will produce the greatest number of options. If conditions remain squally, we can simply remain at Man-O-War and enjoy the town, the beach and the protection of the harbor. If the fronts turn out to be benign, there are a variety of easily-reached destinations in all directions from Man-O-War Cay.
[caption id="attachment_3352" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Private aid to navigation in Man-O-War harbor"]
[/caption]
Our 19 mile journey today retraces our steps through the Pelican Cays, then west to avoid the shallow waters of Tilloo Bank. From here, our course takes us due north to Boat Harbor and around Matt Lowe’s Cay and Point Set Rock to the narrow Man-O-War entrance channel. The channel is so narrow that only one boat can fit through this tiny opening at any one time. As in most areas of the Bahamas, there are no official buoys or aids to navigation to guide the way. The Dodge cruising guide instructs the reader to watch for a piling with a double arrow (actually, a stave from a picket fence nailed to the piling) in the harbor. It is not until we have entered the channel that the double arrow piling becomes visible. As the saying goes, don’t sweat the small stuff.
[caption id="attachment_3345" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="East Harbor at Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]
Once inside, the channel splits into two separate channels. One leads to the commercial west harbor with two marinas and boatyards. We opt for the relative quiet and solitude of the east harbor, where Cutter Loose is now riding comfortably on a mooring.
Late in the afternoon, we receive a distressing communication from our buddy boat, Catspaw. This morning they learned that their friend in Rhode Island is suffering a medical emergency. They have reached the decision to sail Catspaw back to Florida at the earliest opportunity, then fly home to Rhode Island to be with their friends. We have become quite attached to Carey and Bobbi and their cruising cats. Their willingness to share their prior Bahamas cruising experience has simplified and enriched our lives. We will miss the camaraderie that we have shared with Catspaw. We wish them a safe passage.
We will remain at Man-O-War Cay for several days to explore the island while keeping a watchful eye on the weather.
[caption id="attachment_3351" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Narrow entrance to Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]We decide to sail north in the Sea of Abaco to the all-weather protection of the harbor at Man-O-War Cay. This strategy will produce the greatest number of options. If conditions remain squally, we can simply remain at Man-O-War and enjoy the town, the beach and the protection of the harbor. If the fronts turn out to be benign, there are a variety of easily-reached destinations in all directions from Man-O-War Cay.
[caption id="attachment_3352" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Private aid to navigation in Man-O-War harbor"]
[/caption]Our 19 mile journey today retraces our steps through the Pelican Cays, then west to avoid the shallow waters of Tilloo Bank. From here, our course takes us due north to Boat Harbor and around Matt Lowe’s Cay and Point Set Rock to the narrow Man-O-War entrance channel. The channel is so narrow that only one boat can fit through this tiny opening at any one time. As in most areas of the Bahamas, there are no official buoys or aids to navigation to guide the way. The Dodge cruising guide instructs the reader to watch for a piling with a double arrow (actually, a stave from a picket fence nailed to the piling) in the harbor. It is not until we have entered the channel that the double arrow piling becomes visible. As the saying goes, don’t sweat the small stuff.
[caption id="attachment_3345" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="East Harbor at Man-O-War Cay"]
[/caption]Once inside, the channel splits into two separate channels. One leads to the commercial west harbor with two marinas and boatyards. We opt for the relative quiet and solitude of the east harbor, where Cutter Loose is now riding comfortably on a mooring.
Late in the afternoon, we receive a distressing communication from our buddy boat, Catspaw. This morning they learned that their friend in Rhode Island is suffering a medical emergency. They have reached the decision to sail Catspaw back to Florida at the earliest opportunity, then fly home to Rhode Island to be with their friends. We have become quite attached to Carey and Bobbi and their cruising cats. Their willingness to share their prior Bahamas cruising experience has simplified and enriched our lives. We will miss the camaraderie that we have shared with Catspaw. We wish them a safe passage.
We will remain at Man-O-War Cay for several days to explore the island while keeping a watchful eye on the weather.
Friday, March 23rd
At 7:30 AM, the sun is shining and Cutter Loose is outbound in Hopetown channel on a rising tide. Today’s destination is Little Harbor, some 16 miles to the south. Our course takes us through White Sound and alongside Tahiti Beach and the snake-like Tilloo Cut channel into the Atlantic Ocean. The primary navigational concern this morning is transiting Lubber’s Quarters Channel, which carries only 4.5 feet of water depth at low tide. At high tide, however, there is sufficient depth in these waters to keep Cutter Loose afloat.
Further south, we enter the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park, a Bahamian National Park where a series of smaller cays and their intricate reef systems are protected. Most of the local commercial dive boats utilize day moorings in this area as a playground for their half-day dive and snorkeling trips. But the small boat moorings near Sandy Cay are located less than a mile from an open cut to the Atlantic Ocean. Tidal current and ocean swells render this area dangerous and uncomfortable in all but the most settled weather. Despite light winds, conditions today are not the best for snorkeling as ocean swells are breaking on the reefs.
[caption id="attachment_3327" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cliffs surrounding Little Harbor"]
[/caption]
We decide instead to continue on to Little Harbor, the southernmost harbor in the Sea of Abaco. On final approach to the harbor entrance, four foot ocean swells entering the Sea of Abaco through the Little Harbor inlet take us by surprise and roll Cutter Loose to and fro on her beam. The channel to Little Harbor carries four feet of depth at low tide. An hour after high tide, there is nearly seven feet of depth in the channel, plenty of water to enter the harbor. At 10:30 AM, Cutter Loose is inside and tied to a rental mooring.
[caption id="attachment_3326" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Cave etched into the perimeter wall of the harbor"]
[/caption]
This place certainly lives up to its name. Cutter Loose is one of about a dozen boats on moorings in the harbor. Rock outcroppings along its perimeter create a snug, protected place to be in a blow. There are only a handful of homes overlooking this secure setting.
Pete Johnson operates a gallery, foundry and studio on the eastern shore of this harbor in which he creates bronze sculpture. His artistic creations include highly detailed turtles, birds and fish.
[caption id="attachment_3323" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Outstanding bronze turtle created by artist, Pete Johnson"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_3324" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Potholes on the rocky beach"]
[/caption]
After visiting the gallery, a stroll along the beach is akin to walking on the lunar surface. Small craters in the rugged sandstone rock formations have been carved by the constant pounding of the breakers. At low tide, snails and whelks populate the shallows, waiting for the ocean to deliver a fresh supply of nutrients.
Later in the evening, we gather with boat buddies at Pete’s Pub, a local beach bar complete with live music and picnic tables in the sand. Regrettably absent from our group are the crews of Flatlander and Lark which began their return to the US a few days ago. We wish them a safe passage across the Gulf Stream.
[caption id="attachment_3329" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cruising t shirt bar at Pete's Pub"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_3325" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Boardwalk to the beach adorned with Pete Johnson sculpture"]
[/caption]
After dinner, we walk to the beach on the Atlantic Ocean side of the harbor. The dark night sky is filled to overflowing with glimmering stars and planets. With a gentle ocean breeze, we are reminded how fortunate we are to experience this picturesque corner of the world.
[caption id="attachment_3328" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Boat buddies in the sand at Pete's Pub"]
[/caption]
Further south, we enter the Pelican Cays Land and Sea Park, a Bahamian National Park where a series of smaller cays and their intricate reef systems are protected. Most of the local commercial dive boats utilize day moorings in this area as a playground for their half-day dive and snorkeling trips. But the small boat moorings near Sandy Cay are located less than a mile from an open cut to the Atlantic Ocean. Tidal current and ocean swells render this area dangerous and uncomfortable in all but the most settled weather. Despite light winds, conditions today are not the best for snorkeling as ocean swells are breaking on the reefs.
[caption id="attachment_3327" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cliffs surrounding Little Harbor"]
[/caption]We decide instead to continue on to Little Harbor, the southernmost harbor in the Sea of Abaco. On final approach to the harbor entrance, four foot ocean swells entering the Sea of Abaco through the Little Harbor inlet take us by surprise and roll Cutter Loose to and fro on her beam. The channel to Little Harbor carries four feet of depth at low tide. An hour after high tide, there is nearly seven feet of depth in the channel, plenty of water to enter the harbor. At 10:30 AM, Cutter Loose is inside and tied to a rental mooring.
[caption id="attachment_3326" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Cave etched into the perimeter wall of the harbor"]
[/caption]This place certainly lives up to its name. Cutter Loose is one of about a dozen boats on moorings in the harbor. Rock outcroppings along its perimeter create a snug, protected place to be in a blow. There are only a handful of homes overlooking this secure setting.
Pete Johnson operates a gallery, foundry and studio on the eastern shore of this harbor in which he creates bronze sculpture. His artistic creations include highly detailed turtles, birds and fish.
[caption id="attachment_3323" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Outstanding bronze turtle created by artist, Pete Johnson"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3324" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Potholes on the rocky beach"]
[/caption]After visiting the gallery, a stroll along the beach is akin to walking on the lunar surface. Small craters in the rugged sandstone rock formations have been carved by the constant pounding of the breakers. At low tide, snails and whelks populate the shallows, waiting for the ocean to deliver a fresh supply of nutrients.
Later in the evening, we gather with boat buddies at Pete’s Pub, a local beach bar complete with live music and picnic tables in the sand. Regrettably absent from our group are the crews of Flatlander and Lark which began their return to the US a few days ago. We wish them a safe passage across the Gulf Stream.
[caption id="attachment_3329" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cruising t shirt bar at Pete's Pub"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3325" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Boardwalk to the beach adorned with Pete Johnson sculpture"]
[/caption]After dinner, we walk to the beach on the Atlantic Ocean side of the harbor. The dark night sky is filled to overflowing with glimmering stars and planets. With a gentle ocean breeze, we are reminded how fortunate we are to experience this picturesque corner of the world.
[caption id="attachment_3328" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Boat buddies in the sand at Pete's Pub"]
[/caption]
Thursday, March 22, 2012
Sunday, March 18th through Thursday, March 22nd - Hanging out in Hopetown Harbor
[caption id="attachment_3281" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose in Hopetown Harbor"]
[/caption]Hopetown is a place that is difficult to leave. It is a quaint village of narrow streets and picket fences. At noon and again at 6 PM, the sound of chimes from the carillon at the Methodist Church descends on the village. The red and white striped lighthouse at the head of the harbor forms the town's visual identity. Every night at sunset, the keeper of the Elbow Cay Reef Light manually ignites the brilliant kerosene lantern that illuminates the Fresnel lens. The light flickers at first, then casts a wide yellow swath across the harbor as the lens begins its slow but steady rotation. It is comforting to ease into the rhythm of this community.
Many of the older homes and cottages in the village have been restored. Collectively, these brightly painted homes serve as the town's primary supply of transient lodging. The ferry from Marsh Harbor arrives several times each day, bringing with it a fresh supply of visitors. Whether its strolling the lanes, sampling the shops and restaurants or spending time at the beach, walking is the best way to see this community. Golf carts are restricted in certain parts of the village. Life here in Hopetown moves at a relaxed pace.
Cutter Loose is one of about fifty cruising boats moored in the inner harbor. Once through the tricky entrance channel, the inner harbor is deep, snug and secure...protected from winds of all directions. The mooring fee of $20 per day includes access to the Hopetown Sailing Club's dinghy dock. On Monday, Wednesday and Friday between 8:30 AM and 9:30 AM, all of the cruisers carry their trash bags via dinghy to a small dock where a garbage truck is positioned. Most everything in this town is neat, tidy and well-organized.[caption id="attachment_3283" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Hopetown Coffee House"]
[/caption]Each day begins with coffee and muffins on the veranda at the Hopetown Coffee House. A short bicycle ride to the south of Hopetown is White Sound and Tahiti Beach. Tahiti Beach is formed by sand deposits at Tiloo Cut, a small opening between the Sea of Abaco and the Atlantic Ocean. At low tide, a massive white sand bar becomes exposed, attracting sunbathers and shellseekers. Nearby, the Abaco Inn at White Sound serves lunch with a view of the ocean.
[caption id="attachment_3297" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tahiti Beach at low tide"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3292" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Solo performance of Jefferson Starfish at Tahiti Beach"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3280" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Brown Tips, energetic saw player at the Abaco Inn"]
[/caption]We return to the Abaco Inn in the evening for entertainment. Brown Tips and his band have the patrons on their feet, swaying to "rake and scrape" music...calypso and reggae with live percussion parts performed on Stanley rip saws scraped with knives. Live entertainment is also provided each evening at various restaurants on the periphery of the harbor. Cruisers are normally asleep by 9 or 10 PM. The ability to fall asleep to the pounding rhythms of the reggae bands is an important skill in this harbor.
At dusk on our final evening in Hopetown, we are invited to witness the lighting of the lantern at the lighthouse. Sam, the keeper of the lighthouse expertly preheats the burner with a mixture of alcohol and kerosene. Soon, the kerosene is flowing, the burner is glowing and the Fresnel lens begins sending its warning to ships at sea. Sam will remain awake all night, hand-cranking the weights that drive the rotating mechanism every two hours. Most lighthouses of this vintage have been automated for decades. Local residents believe that the Elbow Cay Reef Light is the only manually operated lighthouse in the world.
[caption id="attachment_3305" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="We have ignition!"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3307" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Warm glow of the kerosene lamp illuminating the intricate Fresnel lens"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_3306" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sam, second generation keeper of the Elbow Cay Reef light, is passionate about his job"]
[/caption]The weather has settled significantly since our arrival in Hopetown. Out visit to Elbow Cay has been interesting and relaxing. Tomorrow, we will leave Hopetown, sailing further south in the Sea of Abaco.
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Saturday, March 17th
Today’s forecast calls for sunny skies and moderate 15 knot winds from the northeast. Cutter Loose is under sail on a comfortable beam reach bound for the village of Hopetown on Elbow Cay, about 12 miles to the southeast of Great Guana Cay.
This is our sixth consecutive day of moderate trade winds. Perhaps it is too soon to conclude that the winter weather pattern of repetitive cold fronts is gradually coming to an end. Still, there are no cold fronts on the horizon with sufficient strength to reach the Bahamas. We will continue to enjoy this delightful trade wind sailing in the protection of the Sea of Abaco for as long as it lasts. This is our reward for enduring those long days of motoring south on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.
Our destination of Hopetown is recognizable from a distance of nearly ten miles, thanks to the 120 foot Elbow Cay Reef lighthouse that warns ships in the Atlantic Ocean of the impending dangers of these shallow coastal waters. Rather than take a slip or a mooring inside the harbor, we elect to anchor just outside the entrance to the harbor in order to operate the watermaker and tackle boat chores. Potable water for filling the 260 gallon tank on Cutter Loose is scarce in the Bahamas. Marinas normally charge from 25 cents to 50 cents a gallon for reverse osmosis water. Cutter Loose is equipped with its own RO water system.
Ordinarily, the watermaker would be operated for six or eight hours on a long passage inasmuch as it prefers a long, hard workout. But in the Sea of Abaco, interesting destinations are nearby and day trips are relatively short. About once a week, we devote a sunny afternoon at anchor to the task of watermaking. It is preferable to operate the ship’s watermaker system in crystal clear waters outside of harbors, as the water quality in harbors is sometimes questionable.
Tomorrow, we will secure a mooring in Hopetown harbor in order to explore Elbow Cay.
This is our sixth consecutive day of moderate trade winds. Perhaps it is too soon to conclude that the winter weather pattern of repetitive cold fronts is gradually coming to an end. Still, there are no cold fronts on the horizon with sufficient strength to reach the Bahamas. We will continue to enjoy this delightful trade wind sailing in the protection of the Sea of Abaco for as long as it lasts. This is our reward for enduring those long days of motoring south on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.
Our destination of Hopetown is recognizable from a distance of nearly ten miles, thanks to the 120 foot Elbow Cay Reef lighthouse that warns ships in the Atlantic Ocean of the impending dangers of these shallow coastal waters. Rather than take a slip or a mooring inside the harbor, we elect to anchor just outside the entrance to the harbor in order to operate the watermaker and tackle boat chores. Potable water for filling the 260 gallon tank on Cutter Loose is scarce in the Bahamas. Marinas normally charge from 25 cents to 50 cents a gallon for reverse osmosis water. Cutter Loose is equipped with its own RO water system.
Ordinarily, the watermaker would be operated for six or eight hours on a long passage inasmuch as it prefers a long, hard workout. But in the Sea of Abaco, interesting destinations are nearby and day trips are relatively short. About once a week, we devote a sunny afternoon at anchor to the task of watermaking. It is preferable to operate the ship’s watermaker system in crystal clear waters outside of harbors, as the water quality in harbors is sometimes questionable.
Tomorrow, we will secure a mooring in Hopetown harbor in order to explore Elbow Cay.
Sunday, March 18, 2012
Thursday, March 15th and Friday, March 16th
[caption id="attachment_3249" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Atlantic Ocean beach at Guana Cay"]
[/caption]
Great Guana Cay is a linear barrier island in Abaco, home to several small resorts, marinas and shops. Fewer than 200 people reside here. Most of the homes are seasonally occupied. Access to Guana is by ferry or private boat. Once on the island, residents and visitors drive golf carts or walk to their destination. The major attraction on Guana is its wide Atlantic beach, over 5 miles in length. The color and clarity of the water is simply breathtaking.
[caption id="attachment_3248" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Nippers Beach Bar - pre-concert reconaissance"]
[/caption]
Our mission on Thursday is to explore Nippers Beach Bar, site of tomorrow’s Barefoot Man concert. A narrow sand path leads from Settlement Harbor to Nippers. Perched on a bluff overlooking the ocean, Nippers is an ideal setting for a party. A wooden staircase leads from the deck to the beach. The sand along the water’s edge is soft and inviting. A two mile stroll along the beach leads us to High Rocks, an outcropping surrounded by reefs that is ideal for snorkeling when the ocean is calm.
There are now 45 boats anchored or moored at Fisher’s Bay, eight of which are Island Packets. Along with Catspaw, we are members of the Friday morning advance team. Our mission is to reserve a picnic table in the balcony overlooking the stage at Nippers. Barefoot Man and his band are warming up when we arrive. By 1 PM, the deck in front of the stage is a sea of throbbing shoulder-to-shoulder humanity. PAR-TAY! The age of the audience ranges from 21 to 83. The attire is bikini-casual. Everybody has a pink frozen beverage in their hand held high above their head, belting out the lyrics to each song. It is as if we have been swept back in time to college spring break.
[caption id="attachment_3250" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Friday afternoon Barefoot Man party at Nippers"]
[/caption]
The music and dancing continue until 6 PM. For those who can’t quite get enough of Barefoot Man, there is a second concert scheduled for Saturday at 7 PM. We have been thoroughly entertained by the spectacle of Barefoot Man and the crowd at Nippers. It has certainly been a day unlike any other day thus far on this winter cruise. Tomorrow, we will leave Guana and sail off in search of a new adventure.
[/caption]Great Guana Cay is a linear barrier island in Abaco, home to several small resorts, marinas and shops. Fewer than 200 people reside here. Most of the homes are seasonally occupied. Access to Guana is by ferry or private boat. Once on the island, residents and visitors drive golf carts or walk to their destination. The major attraction on Guana is its wide Atlantic beach, over 5 miles in length. The color and clarity of the water is simply breathtaking.
[caption id="attachment_3248" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Nippers Beach Bar - pre-concert reconaissance"]
[/caption]Our mission on Thursday is to explore Nippers Beach Bar, site of tomorrow’s Barefoot Man concert. A narrow sand path leads from Settlement Harbor to Nippers. Perched on a bluff overlooking the ocean, Nippers is an ideal setting for a party. A wooden staircase leads from the deck to the beach. The sand along the water’s edge is soft and inviting. A two mile stroll along the beach leads us to High Rocks, an outcropping surrounded by reefs that is ideal for snorkeling when the ocean is calm.
There are now 45 boats anchored or moored at Fisher’s Bay, eight of which are Island Packets. Along with Catspaw, we are members of the Friday morning advance team. Our mission is to reserve a picnic table in the balcony overlooking the stage at Nippers. Barefoot Man and his band are warming up when we arrive. By 1 PM, the deck in front of the stage is a sea of throbbing shoulder-to-shoulder humanity. PAR-TAY! The age of the audience ranges from 21 to 83. The attire is bikini-casual. Everybody has a pink frozen beverage in their hand held high above their head, belting out the lyrics to each song. It is as if we have been swept back in time to college spring break. [caption id="attachment_3250" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Friday afternoon Barefoot Man party at Nippers"]
[/caption]The music and dancing continue until 6 PM. For those who can’t quite get enough of Barefoot Man, there is a second concert scheduled for Saturday at 7 PM. We have been thoroughly entertained by the spectacle of Barefoot Man and the crowd at Nippers. It has certainly been a day unlike any other day thus far on this winter cruise. Tomorrow, we will leave Guana and sail off in search of a new adventure.
Friday, March 16, 2012
Wednesday, March 14th
Early morning showers in Marsh Harbor provide the backdrop for a relaxing morning aboard Cutter Loose. Rain has been a rare event on this voyage. In the cozy confines of the salon, we take comfort in the sound of raindrops on the deck. We use this time to experiment with our new Internet connection through Bahama Wi-Max, whose wi-fi hot spots are reputedly located in major harbors of the Sea of Abaco.
[caption id="attachment_3240" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Under sail on a beam reach in the aquamarine waters of the Sea of Abaco"]
[/caption]
Showers give way to partial clearing just before noon. The anchor is up in Marsh Harbor. Cutter Loose is under sail on a comfortable beam reach in 12 knots of breeze, this time to Great Guana Cay, about 9 miles to the northwest. Winds increase to 20 knots in advance of a squall line moving in from the east as we approach Foots Cay.
We enter the boat basin at the Settlement (town harbor) on Great Guana Cay and decide instead to move to the nearby anchorage at Fisher’s Bay. Already the anchorage is filled with boats in anticipation of an important entertainment event scheduled for Friday afternoon. Barefoot Man and his band will perform at Nippers Beach Bar. Hundreds of fans and party-goers are expected to attend.
[caption id="attachment_3242" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Grabbers Beach Bar"]
[/caption]
Cutter Loose is secured to a mooring in Fisher’s Bay amidst a late afternoon rain shower. As the rain tapers off, we are in the dinghy preparing for a beach landing at Grabber’s, a small resort and beach bar at the head of Fisher’s Bay. Every Wednesday evening, local residents and visiting cruisers are invited to a potluck on the sand beach at Grabbers. Some 50 people are in attendance at this event. In darkness, we push the dinghy from the beach into knee-deep water for the return trip to Cutter Loose. We will continue our exploration of Great Guana Cay tomorrow.
[caption id="attachment_3240" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Under sail on a beam reach in the aquamarine waters of the Sea of Abaco"]
[/caption]Showers give way to partial clearing just before noon. The anchor is up in Marsh Harbor. Cutter Loose is under sail on a comfortable beam reach in 12 knots of breeze, this time to Great Guana Cay, about 9 miles to the northwest. Winds increase to 20 knots in advance of a squall line moving in from the east as we approach Foots Cay.
We enter the boat basin at the Settlement (town harbor) on Great Guana Cay and decide instead to move to the nearby anchorage at Fisher’s Bay. Already the anchorage is filled with boats in anticipation of an important entertainment event scheduled for Friday afternoon. Barefoot Man and his band will perform at Nippers Beach Bar. Hundreds of fans and party-goers are expected to attend.
[caption id="attachment_3242" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Grabbers Beach Bar"]
[/caption]Cutter Loose is secured to a mooring in Fisher’s Bay amidst a late afternoon rain shower. As the rain tapers off, we are in the dinghy preparing for a beach landing at Grabber’s, a small resort and beach bar at the head of Fisher’s Bay. Every Wednesday evening, local residents and visiting cruisers are invited to a potluck on the sand beach at Grabbers. Some 50 people are in attendance at this event. In darkness, we push the dinghy from the beach into knee-deep water for the return trip to Cutter Loose. We will continue our exploration of Great Guana Cay tomorrow.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
Sunday, March 11th through Tuesday, March 13th - lay days in Marsh Harbour
[caption id="attachment_3223" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Happy hour view of the harbour from Snappa's"]
[/caption]
Cutter Loose is one of about forty boats anchored in Marsh Harbour. The harbor is large, well-protected from prevailing easterlies and the holding ground is good. At the three marinas here in Marsh Harbour, there are another 200 boats docked for the winter. This is an active cruising community. Every morning at 8:15 on the VHF radio, there is an interactive cruiser’s net which features various topics related to the cruising lifestyle. This includes local weather conditions, navigational advice, community events, boat-related services and verbal advertisements from restaurants and bakeries.
The winter weather pattern continues here in the Northern Bahamas with brisk 25 knot winds from the east on Sunday. There is a light chop in the harbor, just enough to become soaked with saltwater on an upwind run in the dinghy. Cruisers anchored in the harbor are easily distinguished ashore. They are the folks with the floppy hats and wet butts.
[caption id="attachment_3219" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Marsh Harbour Community Library"]
[/caption]
Marsh Harbour is centrally located in the Sea of Abaco. With some 5,000 residents, it is the largest town in Abaco and the third largest town in the Bahamas. Unlike Green Turtle Cay where golf carts are used for transportation, the narrow streets of Marsh Harbour are filled with cars and trucks that are dated by American standards. It is election season here in the Bahamas and many vehicles are flying banners expressing an affiliation or preference for one of three political parties.
There are two distinct business districts in Marsh Harbour. A handful of restaurants, bars and touristy shops are clustered around the marinas. Few Bahamians, other than employees, visit this area. The majority of commerce is conducted in small shops within the traditional business district, a grid network of paved streets roughly two blocks wide by four blocks long. It is a functional, if not attractive town center. Unlike Green Turtle Cay, there are no Caucasian Loyalists walking these streets or tending the shops…only Bahamians and cruisers.
The Bahamians speak English when conversing with cruisers. But in conversations amongst themselves, the language is indecipherable. It is said that the language of the Bahamians is closely related to Gullah, spoken in the low country of South Carolina. Some shops have signage in both English and Creole.
Once ashore, the first stop of the day is Da Bes Bakery. The friendly proprietors advise us when the whole wheat bread will be hot out of the oven so that we can return before the supply disappears. Da Bes also serves up a delectable sweet pastry stuffed with either coconut or pineapple filling.
[caption id="attachment_3220" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="US-style grocery store in Marsh Harbour"]
[/caption]
Just about anything that a cruiser would need can be found here. Maxwell’s Supermarket, located about six blocks from the dinghy dock, is an amazingly modern facility with a wide variety of provisions. Depending on deliveries, fruits and vegetables can be either abundant or scarce. There are two additional supermarkets in town that specialize in case lot supplies, similar in concept to a Costco but on a smaller scale. Prices here are 20% to 100% higher than in the US, depending on the item purchased. Street vendors sell garden vegetables and there is a farmer’s market every other Saturday. Fresh seafood is a rare commodity, which is surprising in light of our proximity to productive fishing grounds in the ocean canyons east of the Sea of Abaco. Locals advise against the consumption of grouper, which has been known to cause a foodborne illness called ciguatera.
As usual, our visit to the local Laundromat turns out to be an enlightening experience. About two-thirds of the washers and dryers are inoperable. There are two or three cruisers and thirty Bahamians competing for the operable machines. The Bahamians teach us how to queue up for access to the washing machines. While the machine is in the wash cycle, one politely asks the user if this is his/her final load. If the answer is yes, the next person in the queue claims rights to the machine by placing quarters in the change slots. Once one’s quarters are in position, the territory must be guarded carefully. It is not unusual for the entire family to participate in a laundry event. It is a place where acquaintances are renewed and the news of the day is shared. During our visit, a woman wearing an orange vest similar to that of a crossing guard delivers a highly charged and well-rehearsed info-mercial about the health benefits of keeping one’s colon clean. Some of her descriptions are quite graphic and downright frightening. She is waving two small glass bottles of a potion guaranteed to achieve the desired result. After about ten minutes, she has lost the attention of the audience and moves on. Our outlay of quarters for the machines is well worth the price of admission to this entertaining cultural experience.
[/caption]Cutter Loose is one of about forty boats anchored in Marsh Harbour. The harbor is large, well-protected from prevailing easterlies and the holding ground is good. At the three marinas here in Marsh Harbour, there are another 200 boats docked for the winter. This is an active cruising community. Every morning at 8:15 on the VHF radio, there is an interactive cruiser’s net which features various topics related to the cruising lifestyle. This includes local weather conditions, navigational advice, community events, boat-related services and verbal advertisements from restaurants and bakeries.
The winter weather pattern continues here in the Northern Bahamas with brisk 25 knot winds from the east on Sunday. There is a light chop in the harbor, just enough to become soaked with saltwater on an upwind run in the dinghy. Cruisers anchored in the harbor are easily distinguished ashore. They are the folks with the floppy hats and wet butts.
[caption id="attachment_3219" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Marsh Harbour Community Library"]
[/caption]Marsh Harbour is centrally located in the Sea of Abaco. With some 5,000 residents, it is the largest town in Abaco and the third largest town in the Bahamas. Unlike Green Turtle Cay where golf carts are used for transportation, the narrow streets of Marsh Harbour are filled with cars and trucks that are dated by American standards. It is election season here in the Bahamas and many vehicles are flying banners expressing an affiliation or preference for one of three political parties.
There are two distinct business districts in Marsh Harbour. A handful of restaurants, bars and touristy shops are clustered around the marinas. Few Bahamians, other than employees, visit this area. The majority of commerce is conducted in small shops within the traditional business district, a grid network of paved streets roughly two blocks wide by four blocks long. It is a functional, if not attractive town center. Unlike Green Turtle Cay, there are no Caucasian Loyalists walking these streets or tending the shops…only Bahamians and cruisers. 
The Bahamians speak English when conversing with cruisers. But in conversations amongst themselves, the language is indecipherable. It is said that the language of the Bahamians is closely related to Gullah, spoken in the low country of South Carolina. Some shops have signage in both English and Creole.
Once ashore, the first stop of the day is Da Bes Bakery. The friendly proprietors advise us when the whole wheat bread will be hot out of the oven so that we can return before the supply disappears. Da Bes also serves up a delectable sweet pastry stuffed with either coconut or pineapple filling.
[caption id="attachment_3220" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="US-style grocery store in Marsh Harbour"]
[/caption]Just about anything that a cruiser would need can be found here. Maxwell’s Supermarket, located about six blocks from the dinghy dock, is an amazingly modern facility with a wide variety of provisions. Depending on deliveries, fruits and vegetables can be either abundant or scarce. There are two additional supermarkets in town that specialize in case lot supplies, similar in concept to a Costco but on a smaller scale. Prices here are 20% to 100% higher than in the US, depending on the item purchased. Street vendors sell garden vegetables and there is a farmer’s market every other Saturday. Fresh seafood is a rare commodity, which is surprising in light of our proximity to productive fishing grounds in the ocean canyons east of the Sea of Abaco. Locals advise against the consumption of grouper, which has been known to cause a foodborne illness called ciguatera.
As usual, our visit to the local Laundromat turns out to be an enlightening experience. About two-thirds of the washers and dryers are inoperable. There are two or three cruisers and thirty Bahamians competing for the operable machines. The Bahamians teach us how to queue up for access to the washing machines. While the machine is in the wash cycle, one politely asks the user if this is his/her final load. If the answer is yes, the next person in the queue claims rights to the machine by placing quarters in the change slots. Once one’s quarters are in position, the territory must be guarded carefully. It is not unusual for the entire family to participate in a laundry event. It is a place where acquaintances are renewed and the news of the day is shared. During our visit, a woman wearing an orange vest similar to that of a crossing guard delivers a highly charged and well-rehearsed info-mercial about the health benefits of keeping one’s colon clean. Some of her descriptions are quite graphic and downright frightening. She is waving two small glass bottles of a potion guaranteed to achieve the desired result. After about ten minutes, she has lost the attention of the audience and moves on. Our outlay of quarters for the machines is well worth the price of admission to this entertaining cultural experience.
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Saturday, March 10th
[caption id="attachment_3210" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pre-dawn departure from Manjack Cay"]
[/caption]
The anchor is up at Manjack Cay at 6:20 AM. From all appearances, it is a perfect day to transit Whale Cay passage. Under clear skies, the wind is light and variable at less than 5 knots.
Our course takes us southeast past No Name Cay, then due east into Whale Cay Channel. At slack high tide, 3 to 4 foot swells and no breaking waves, the channel appears manageable. As in most areas of the Bahamas, there are no buoys or aids to navigation here to define the edges of the channel. Instead, we plot our course using a series of latitude and longitude coordinates published in the Dodge cruising guide.
[caption id="attachment_3211" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Early morning transit of Whale Cay passage in calm water"]
[/caption]
Once in the ocean, waves are breaking on Channel Rock to our port side and crashing onto the reefs at Whale Cay to starboard. This is the most significant navigational challenge in the Abacos. During rage conditions, large ocean swells funnel into the relatively shallow water of this cut causing waves to break in the channel. One can only imagine what the Whale would be like in a storm. Thankfully, conditions are benign today.
A right turn to the southeast places us on a course that passes parallel to Whale Cay for a distance of two miles before turning south into Loggerhead Channel to enter the Sea of Abaco. A cruise ship channel was dredged here in 1989. But the cruise ships discontinued visits to this area in the early 1990s because rage conditions sometimes rendered the channel impassable during the winter months. The abandoned ship terminal near Baker’s Bay is visible to port as we enter the Sea of Abaco.
The Sea of Abaco is a protected body of water that lies between Great Abaco Island and a series of cays to the northeast that provide a buffer from the Atlantic Ocean. It is about 20 miles long and 5 miles wide, offering cruisers an ideal destination for sailing, snorkeling and visiting small villages. We will spend the next month exploring this area before retracing our steps to Florida in mid-to-late April.
Our destination today is Marsh Harbour, 9 miles to the southwest of Baker’s Bay. By 11 AM, Cutter Loose is anchored in the harbor, well in advance of the approaching cold front. We will remain in Marsh Harbor for a few days, exploring the town and monitoring the weather picture.
[/caption]The anchor is up at Manjack Cay at 6:20 AM. From all appearances, it is a perfect day to transit Whale Cay passage. Under clear skies, the wind is light and variable at less than 5 knots.
Our course takes us southeast past No Name Cay, then due east into Whale Cay Channel. At slack high tide, 3 to 4 foot swells and no breaking waves, the channel appears manageable. As in most areas of the Bahamas, there are no buoys or aids to navigation here to define the edges of the channel. Instead, we plot our course using a series of latitude and longitude coordinates published in the Dodge cruising guide.
[caption id="attachment_3211" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Early morning transit of Whale Cay passage in calm water"]
[/caption]Once in the ocean, waves are breaking on Channel Rock to our port side and crashing onto the reefs at Whale Cay to starboard. This is the most significant navigational challenge in the Abacos. During rage conditions, large ocean swells funnel into the relatively shallow water of this cut causing waves to break in the channel. One can only imagine what the Whale would be like in a storm. Thankfully, conditions are benign today.
A right turn to the southeast places us on a course that passes parallel to Whale Cay for a distance of two miles before turning south into Loggerhead Channel to enter the Sea of Abaco. A cruise ship channel was dredged here in 1989. But the cruise ships discontinued visits to this area in the early 1990s because rage conditions sometimes rendered the channel impassable during the winter months. The abandoned ship terminal near Baker’s Bay is visible to port as we enter the Sea of Abaco.
The Sea of Abaco is a protected body of water that lies between Great Abaco Island and a series of cays to the northeast that provide a buffer from the Atlantic Ocean. It is about 20 miles long and 5 miles wide, offering cruisers an ideal destination for sailing, snorkeling and visiting small villages. We will spend the next month exploring this area before retracing our steps to Florida in mid-to-late April.
Our destination today is Marsh Harbour, 9 miles to the southwest of Baker’s Bay. By 11 AM, Cutter Loose is anchored in the harbor, well in advance of the approaching cold front. We will remain in Marsh Harbor for a few days, exploring the town and monitoring the weather picture.
Friday, March 9th
After a leisurely breakfast, we settle our account at Green Turtle Club and prepare Cutter Loose to leave the dock. Winds have subsided, but are still blowing at 12 knots from the east. The forecast calls for diminishing winds throughout the afternoon and overnight. But reduced wind speed does not instantly translate to calm seas. Ocean swells begin to subside only after a sustained period of diminished winds. We decide to anchor overnight and transit Whale Cay channel early on Saturday morning after the seas have had an opportunity to lay down overnight.
[caption id="attachment_3204" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Manjack Cay anchorage"]
[/caption]
Under sunny skies, our journey today takes us to Manjack Cay, a distance of 5 miles. Cutter Loose is anchored in the bight between Crab Cay and Rat Cay. The water here is crystal clear. Our anchor and chain rode are clearly visible in the sand beneath 12 feet of water. Several white sand beaches are nearby. We take advantage of this relaxed setting to study the charts for tomorrow’s passage while the solar panels generate energy to operate the reverse osmosis watermaker.
By mid-afternoon, the wind speed has dropped off to 5 knots. It will be a calm night at anchor.
[caption id="attachment_3204" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Manjack Cay anchorage"]
[/caption]Under sunny skies, our journey today takes us to Manjack Cay, a distance of 5 miles. Cutter Loose is anchored in the bight between Crab Cay and Rat Cay. The water here is crystal clear. Our anchor and chain rode are clearly visible in the sand beneath 12 feet of water. Several white sand beaches are nearby. We take advantage of this relaxed setting to study the charts for tomorrow’s passage while the solar panels generate energy to operate the reverse osmosis watermaker.
By mid-afternoon, the wind speed has dropped off to 5 knots. It will be a calm night at anchor.
Tuesday, March 6th through Thursday, March 8th
[caption id="attachment_3195" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Breaking waves - Atlantic Ocean in 30 knot easterlies"]
[/caption]
As predicted, strong trade winds dominate the weather picture in Green Turtle Cay for several days. Trade winds occur when a high pressure dome to the north (aka a “Bermuda high”) moves offshore from the Carolinas and becomes nearly stationary. Wind circulates in a clockwise pattern around the high pressure center. This results in an easterly flow in the general area to the south of the high, i.e., the Bahamas and Caribbean.
The Bermuda high is a stubborn beast. It will remain nearly stationary until the next winter cold front challenges its dominance and slowly pushes its way eastward. Since a new next cold front is not expected until the weekend, the next few days will bring easterlies in the 25 to 30 knot range. On the Atlantic Ocean side of Green Turtle Cay, the wind-driven waves are creating huge breakers on the reefs. Fortunately, the Green Turtle Club Marina in White Harbor is well-protected from the east. Cutter Loose is sandwiched between two 50+ foot trawlers that are docked on both sides. She tugs at her dock lines only when the gusts exceed 25 knots.
We will remain here at Green Turtle Cay for several days until the next cold front approaches from the north. Thereafter, the wind will gradually diminish for a day or two until the cold front passes. During this brief reprieve, we will move Cutter Loose further south to a location where we can seek protection from the northerly winds. After the passage of the cold front, the wind will subside for a few days before another Bermuda high becomes entrenched to the north, forcing us to scurry for cover once again from the strong easterlies.
This weather pattern affords an opportunity to enjoy our surroundings at the Green Turtle Club and to explore this small island. Since the cost of meals at the Club offset the cost of our dockage, these days are filled with leisurely breakfasts and casual dinners in the dining room. In the afternoons, we gather with our Island Packet friends for a few games of dominoes. Although the resort includes accommodations, nearly all of the patrons at this time of year are cruisers. By the end of our first full day, we are on a first name basis with most of the boaters on the dock as well as Club staff.
[caption id="attachment_3190" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay"]
[/caption]
For exercise, we walk three miles to the settlement of New Plymouth, located at the southernmost tip of the Cay. This is a small village with narrow streets, modest homes, shops, restaurants, churches, a school and a museum. The primary mode of transportation on the island is by golf cart. Without exception, residents and tourists wave as they pass by on their golf cart. Several drivers stop to offer us a ride, which we politely decline in the interest of fitness.
[caption id="attachment_3197" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Green Turtle Cay loyalist emblems"]
[/caption]
The early inhabitants of the Bahamas in general and Green Turtle Cay in particular were Loyalists…those who opposed the revolutionary movement in what would become the United States. Black slaves also immigrated from the U.S. to the Bahamas after the Revolutionary War. The museum and adjacent sculpture garden document the plight of the Loyalists. Allegedly, they were shunned and persecuted by the colonists in America. When Britain took control of the Bahamas from Spain, the Loyalists moved here with the intent of establishing a farming economy. However, the sandy, rocky soil of the Bahamas is not conducive to agriculture. Many of the original settlements failed. Today, the shopkeepers are proud to explain that they are seventh generation residents of the island.
Beyond the settlement of New Plymouth, the remainder of the island is sparsely developed with vacation homes and a handful of small resorts and marinas. Some resort properties sustained damage during Hurricane Irene in August of 2011 and have not reopened.
[caption id="attachment_3196" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Live music at Green Turtle Club on Wednesday evening"]
[/caption]
By Thursday afternoon, the intense easterlies begin to subside. We are watching the weather closely now as our opportunity to move Cutter Loose to the Sea of Abaco draws closer. The next leg of our journey requires settled weather. We must navigate our way into the Atlantic Ocean and re-enter the Sea of Abaco at Loggerhead Channel. Any significant amount of wind and/or ocean swell creates breaking waves in the channels, rendering this passage impassable.
We have enjoyed our relaxing stay at Green Turtle Cay. In the morning, it will be time to move south to discover new destinations.
[/caption]As predicted, strong trade winds dominate the weather picture in Green Turtle Cay for several days. Trade winds occur when a high pressure dome to the north (aka a “Bermuda high”) moves offshore from the Carolinas and becomes nearly stationary. Wind circulates in a clockwise pattern around the high pressure center. This results in an easterly flow in the general area to the south of the high, i.e., the Bahamas and Caribbean.
The Bermuda high is a stubborn beast. It will remain nearly stationary until the next winter cold front challenges its dominance and slowly pushes its way eastward. Since a new next cold front is not expected until the weekend, the next few days will bring easterlies in the 25 to 30 knot range. On the Atlantic Ocean side of Green Turtle Cay, the wind-driven waves are creating huge breakers on the reefs. Fortunately, the Green Turtle Club Marina in White Harbor is well-protected from the east. Cutter Loose is sandwiched between two 50+ foot trawlers that are docked on both sides. She tugs at her dock lines only when the gusts exceed 25 knots.
We will remain here at Green Turtle Cay for several days until the next cold front approaches from the north. Thereafter, the wind will gradually diminish for a day or two until the cold front passes. During this brief reprieve, we will move Cutter Loose further south to a location where we can seek protection from the northerly winds. After the passage of the cold front, the wind will subside for a few days before another Bermuda high becomes entrenched to the north, forcing us to scurry for cover once again from the strong easterlies. This weather pattern affords an opportunity to enjoy our surroundings at the Green Turtle Club and to explore this small island. Since the cost of meals at the Club offset the cost of our dockage, these days are filled with leisurely breakfasts and casual dinners in the dining room. In the afternoons, we gather with our Island Packet friends for a few games of dominoes. Although the resort includes accommodations, nearly all of the patrons at this time of year are cruisers. By the end of our first full day, we are on a first name basis with most of the boaters on the dock as well as Club staff.
[caption id="attachment_3190" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay"]
[/caption]For exercise, we walk three miles to the settlement of New Plymouth, located at the southernmost tip of the Cay. This is a small village with narrow streets, modest homes, shops, restaurants, churches, a school and a museum. The primary mode of transportation on the island is by golf cart. Without exception, residents and tourists wave as they pass by on their golf cart. Several drivers stop to offer us a ride, which we politely decline in the interest of fitness.
[caption id="attachment_3197" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Green Turtle Cay loyalist emblems"]
[/caption]The early inhabitants of the Bahamas in general and Green Turtle Cay in particular were Loyalists…those who opposed the revolutionary movement in what would become the United States. Black slaves also immigrated from the U.S. to the Bahamas after the Revolutionary War. The museum and adjacent sculpture garden document the plight of the Loyalists. Allegedly, they were shunned and persecuted by the colonists in America. When Britain took control of the Bahamas from Spain, the Loyalists moved here with the intent of establishing a farming economy. However, the sandy, rocky soil of the Bahamas is not conducive to agriculture. Many of the original settlements failed. Today, the shopkeepers are proud to explain that they are seventh generation residents of the island.
Beyond the settlement of New Plymouth, the remainder of the island is sparsely developed with vacation homes and a handful of small resorts and marinas. Some resort properties sustained damage during Hurricane Irene in August of 2011 and have not reopened.
[caption id="attachment_3196" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Live music at Green Turtle Club on Wednesday evening"]
[/caption]By Thursday afternoon, the intense easterlies begin to subside. We are watching the weather closely now as our opportunity to move Cutter Loose to the Sea of Abaco draws closer. The next leg of our journey requires settled weather. We must navigate our way into the Atlantic Ocean and re-enter the Sea of Abaco at Loggerhead Channel. Any significant amount of wind and/or ocean swell creates breaking waves in the channels, rendering this passage impassable.
We have enjoyed our relaxing stay at Green Turtle Cay. In the morning, it will be time to move south to discover new destinations.
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