Epilogue to Saturday, July 30th. Beginning at 9 PM, an outdoor tent wedding reception at the Asticou Lodge (head of the harbor) makes its presence known in the form of upbeat music performed by a live band. The harbor is surrounded on three sides by mountains, which acts as a natural amplifier. Actually, the performance is quite solid. It is a soul band complete with horns and backup vocalists punching out Motown music from the 70s in three part harmony. Under normal circumstances, we would be thoroughly entertained by tonight's free concert. But on this particular occasion, we are exhausted by our descent from Cadillac Mountain. We have no problem falling asleep despite the pulsating music wafting over the water and into the cabin of Cutter Loose.
However, 11 PM marks the end of the music and the beginning of the fireworks display. Is this a dream? Or could a wedding reception with a live soul band and fireworks really be happening on a Saturday night in sleepy little Northeast Harbor?
This is not your average small town pyrotechnics display. These are powerful explosions that reverberate in one's chest and illuminate the entire harbor. There is no denying that we are now awake, so we might as well enjoy the show.
The 30 minute performance is of a caliber comparable to a fireworks display in a major urban area on the 4th of July. To augment the fireworks, there are colored lights in the shape of flowers visible around the perimeter of the harbor. Now we can make out the running lights of a boat parading through the harbor with the identical pattern of colored lights displayed high in its rigging. Soon, the boaters in the harbor are getting into the act, sounding their horns and shouting oohs and ahhs and other exclamations of encouragement. After the grand finale, the harbor is filled with smoke and the frenzied cheers of appreciation from an enthusiastic audience. To borrow a phrase from Jimmy Buffet, "that was the night they painted the sky".
On Sunday morning, we are on the 9 AM bus to attend worship services at the Bar Harbor Congregational Church. We take advantage of this opportunity to accomplish grocery shopping at the supermarket on Cottage Street, just a few blocks from the Village Green bus stop in Bar Harbor. This is the preferred alternative to the small market in Northeast Harbor, which is passable but pricey and offers only a limited selection of necessities for the galley.
We are beginning to view Bar Harbor in a more positive light, not necessarily as a place to base the boat, but as a sub-destination for groceries, dining and cultural events. The slower pace and mountain scenery of Northeast Harbor is unparalleled, which makes it the preferred harbor for cruising sailors. Bar Harbor is a short 25 minute free bus ride from Northeast Harbor. This is a best of both worlds scenario.
The balance of the day is devoted to chores, including laundry and replenishing the fuel and water supply aboard Cutter Loose at Clifton Dock. Time seems to evaporate on these admin days. Before we know it, the sun is disappearing behind the mountains. Many of the weekend visitors have already cleared out of the harbor, leaving behind an abundance of vacant moorings. We look forward to a quiet, restful night.
Sunday, July 31, 2011
Saturday, July 30, 2011
Saturday, July 30th - lay day in Acadia National Park
Last night's rainfall was the equivalent of the perfect snowfall on a ski vacation. It began at 9 PM and ended at 6 AM. No thunder. No lightning. No wind. Just a steady all-night shower.
The sky is already brightening by 9 AM. The forecast calls for a sunny afternoon. We interpret this as an invitation to another day of hiking at Acadia.
We are becoming proficient in using the local transit system. We take the bus to Bar Harbor, then transfer to another bus that takes us to the Blackwoods camping area at Otter Cove. Today we ascend Cadillac Mountain along the South Ridge Trail from Otter Cove. The ascent is gradual and scenic, but on the long side at 5 miles. Approaching the summit, we immediately understand why we saw only five people on yesterday's hike. It's because everyone in the park is hanging out at the summit of Cadillac Mountain. Cars, busses, campers, people and their pets have descended on this place in hordes. Perhaps all of this attention is justified. At 1530 feet, Cadillac is the highest point on the Atlantic coast. Allegedly, sunrise from this location is visible earlier than any other place in the nation. We will take the Park Ranger's word on this.
Although the view is magnificent, we organize a hasty departure from the summit to escape the crowd. Our descent is by way of the West Face Trail. The term "trail" is misleading as there is no path, per se. It is a steep descent over granite outcroppings and boulders through which the snow melt finds its way by gravity to Bubble Pond in the spring. Many of the rocks are still moist from last night's rainfall and their surfaces are slippery. The pace is slow, but we rise to the challenge and complete the overall hike in four hours, including a stop for a backpack lunch along the way.
[caption id="attachment_1028" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Bubble Pond, Mount Desert Island, ME"]
[/caption]
We walk alongside Bubble Pond, pleased to have completed this hike. At the Park Loop Road, we are met by our new friends at the trusty public transit service that whisk us efficiently to Northeast Harbor. We are tired, dirty, sweaty and hungry. Sleep will come easily tonight.
The sky is already brightening by 9 AM. The forecast calls for a sunny afternoon. We interpret this as an invitation to another day of hiking at Acadia.
We are becoming proficient in using the local transit system. We take the bus to Bar Harbor, then transfer to another bus that takes us to the Blackwoods camping area at Otter Cove. Today we ascend Cadillac Mountain along the South Ridge Trail from Otter Cove. The ascent is gradual and scenic, but on the long side at 5 miles. Approaching the summit, we immediately understand why we saw only five people on yesterday's hike. It's because everyone in the park is hanging out at the summit of Cadillac Mountain. Cars, busses, campers, people and their pets have descended on this place in hordes. Perhaps all of this attention is justified. At 1530 feet, Cadillac is the highest point on the Atlantic coast. Allegedly, sunrise from this location is visible earlier than any other place in the nation. We will take the Park Ranger's word on this.
Although the view is magnificent, we organize a hasty departure from the summit to escape the crowd. Our descent is by way of the West Face Trail. The term "trail" is misleading as there is no path, per se. It is a steep descent over granite outcroppings and boulders through which the snow melt finds its way by gravity to Bubble Pond in the spring. Many of the rocks are still moist from last night's rainfall and their surfaces are slippery. The pace is slow, but we rise to the challenge and complete the overall hike in four hours, including a stop for a backpack lunch along the way.
[caption id="attachment_1028" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Bubble Pond, Mount Desert Island, ME"]
[/caption]We walk alongside Bubble Pond, pleased to have completed this hike. At the Park Loop Road, we are met by our new friends at the trusty public transit service that whisk us efficiently to Northeast Harbor. We are tired, dirty, sweaty and hungry. Sleep will come easily tonight.
Friday, July 29th - lay day at Acadia National Park
Dense fog blankets the harbor this morning. We hop the public transit system and ride to Bar Harbor to see the sights. There is more of everything in Bar Harbor. More people, more traffic, more restaurants, more whale watcher tours and more t shirt shops. And jewelry shops. And pet supply shops. And kitchen gadget shops. Presumably, market researchers have determined that tourists are likely to make impulsive purchases of t shirts, jewelry and a toy for Fido, moreso than any other objects that they don't need.
Mt. Desert Island offers a highly efficient public transit system. One can ride a modern bus fueled by compressed natural gas to just about any destination on the island at no cost. This service is made possible by major financial support from LL Bean. Neat corporate marketing concept for an outdoor business. The idea is to encourage visitors to leave their cars at their hotels, thereby reducing emissions and traffic congestion on the park roads. This system works especially well for visiting yachtsmen that do not have access to private transportation. The bus stop in Northeast Harbor is conveniently located near the dinghy dock. There is service every 30 minutes between 10 AM and 8 PM.
[caption id="attachment_1011" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="The rocky ascent to Pemetic Mountain"]
[/caption]
From Bar Harbor, we ride the bus to Bubble Pond, where we access a hiking trail to Pemetic Mountain (1248 feet). The ascent is rocky and steep. When we arrive at the summit, the fog is thick, the wind is howling and visibility is minimal. Our descent follows an alternate trail south to Jordan Pond House. During this three hour hike, we encounter a total of five other hikers along the trails. We enjoy the solitude of our outdoor experience, if only for a brief period of time.
We reward our accomplishment with a pot of tea on the lawn at Jordan Pond House. The cloud layer is thickening, the wind is intensifying and the temperature is falling. Rain is in the forecast for this evening. We take the free bus from Jordan Pond to Northeast Harbor, pleased that the rain has held off just long enough for our dinghy ride back to Cutter Loose.
[caption id="attachment_1012" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Afternoon fog settling in on Pemetic Mountain, MDI"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_1013" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Apres hike afternoon tea on the lawn at Jordan Pond House"]
[/caption]
Mt. Desert Island offers a highly efficient public transit system. One can ride a modern bus fueled by compressed natural gas to just about any destination on the island at no cost. This service is made possible by major financial support from LL Bean. Neat corporate marketing concept for an outdoor business. The idea is to encourage visitors to leave their cars at their hotels, thereby reducing emissions and traffic congestion on the park roads. This system works especially well for visiting yachtsmen that do not have access to private transportation. The bus stop in Northeast Harbor is conveniently located near the dinghy dock. There is service every 30 minutes between 10 AM and 8 PM.
[caption id="attachment_1011" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="The rocky ascent to Pemetic Mountain"]
[/caption]From Bar Harbor, we ride the bus to Bubble Pond, where we access a hiking trail to Pemetic Mountain (1248 feet). The ascent is rocky and steep. When we arrive at the summit, the fog is thick, the wind is howling and visibility is minimal. Our descent follows an alternate trail south to Jordan Pond House. During this three hour hike, we encounter a total of five other hikers along the trails. We enjoy the solitude of our outdoor experience, if only for a brief period of time.
We reward our accomplishment with a pot of tea on the lawn at Jordan Pond House. The cloud layer is thickening, the wind is intensifying and the temperature is falling. Rain is in the forecast for this evening. We take the free bus from Jordan Pond to Northeast Harbor, pleased that the rain has held off just long enough for our dinghy ride back to Cutter Loose.
[caption id="attachment_1012" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Afternoon fog settling in on Pemetic Mountain, MDI"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_1013" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Apres hike afternoon tea on the lawn at Jordan Pond House"]
[/caption]
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Thursday, July 28th - lay day at Acadia National Park
[caption id="attachment_1000" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Jordan Pond, Acadia National Park"]
[/caption]
The temperature is hovering around 58 degrees at daybreak. Today will be sunny with a high temperature of 75...perfect weather to explore Acadia National Park by bicycle.
Our tour begins on Sargent Drive, riding north along the eastern shoreline of Somes Sound and admiring the water views. We cross over to the carriage trails and cycle to the Visitor's Center at the northern entrance to the Park. By this time, we have consumed our emergency stash of Clif bars. Midday hunger is starting to set in. We ride south via the eastern shore of Eagle Lake to Jordan Pond House, the only location along the carriage trails where food is available.
[caption id="attachment_1001" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Popover, as served at the Jordan Pond House"]
[/caption]
By this time it is mid-afternoon. We inhale a few popovers with strawberry jam, the signature dish of Jordan Pond House during afternoon tea. They are delectable and filling. But we are disappointed in the ambience and menu of Jordan Pond House. We have fond memories of this special place that date back to a previous visit in 1990. Change is inevitable. It is unrealistic for us to have such great expectations based on a previous experience over two decades ago.
We continue on to Northeast Harbor via the Amphitheater carriage trail and Route 198. By the time we arrive at the dinghy dock, our odometer reading for the day is 32 miles. We are revived by a hot shower and a nourishing meal aboard Cutter Loose.
[/caption]The temperature is hovering around 58 degrees at daybreak. Today will be sunny with a high temperature of 75...perfect weather to explore Acadia National Park by bicycle.
Our tour begins on Sargent Drive, riding north along the eastern shoreline of Somes Sound and admiring the water views. We cross over to the carriage trails and cycle to the Visitor's Center at the northern entrance to the Park. By this time, we have consumed our emergency stash of Clif bars. Midday hunger is starting to set in. We ride south via the eastern shore of Eagle Lake to Jordan Pond House, the only location along the carriage trails where food is available.
[caption id="attachment_1001" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Popover, as served at the Jordan Pond House"]
[/caption]By this time it is mid-afternoon. We inhale a few popovers with strawberry jam, the signature dish of Jordan Pond House during afternoon tea. They are delectable and filling. But we are disappointed in the ambience and menu of Jordan Pond House. We have fond memories of this special place that date back to a previous visit in 1990. Change is inevitable. It is unrealistic for us to have such great expectations based on a previous experience over two decades ago.
We continue on to Northeast Harbor via the Amphitheater carriage trail and Route 198. By the time we arrive at the dinghy dock, our odometer reading for the day is 32 miles. We are revived by a hot shower and a nourishing meal aboard Cutter Loose.
Wednesday, July 27, 2011
Wednesday, July 27th
[caption id="attachment_988" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in Valley Cove, Somes Sound"]
[/caption]
Rainshowers overnight give way to sun and clouds at daybreak. We linger at our anchorage in Valley Cove over breakfast in the cockpit, admiring this incredible setting. There is a 40% chance of rain today, but the morning sky does an impressive job of masking this possibility.
By mid-morning, Cutter Loose is moored in Northeast Harbor, a short journey of three miles from our anchorage in Somes Sound. Northeast Harbor is the place to be on a boat on Mount Desert Island. This small village offers essential services for cruising sailors (i.e., bakery, grocery store, laundromat, bank, etc.) without being a touristy t shirt shopping district. The mooring agent informs us that there are fewer boaters visiting Northeast Harbor this year. This is bad news for the village, but good news for us. We may remain on our moooring for as long as we wish.
[caption id="attachment_989" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of Northeast Harbor from Thuya Gardens"]
[/caption]
In the afternoon, we dinghy to Asticou Inn's landing for a visit to Thuya Lodge and Gardens. This was the summer home of Joseph Henry Curtis, a 19th century Boston landscape architect. Mr. Curtis donated this property to a local public land trust. The gardens are impeccably designed and maintained.
Afterwards, we enjoy a beverage on the terrace at the Asticou Inn overlooking the harbor. While we are admiring the view, a group of 20 touring bicyclists arrive at the Inn. They are part of a week-long organized trip sponsored by Vermont Bicycle Tours. Through our conversations with members of this group, we learn more about bicycling opportunities on the Island.
[caption id="attachment_990" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Double rainbow over Cutter Loose in Northeast Harbor"]
[/caption]
We return to Cutter Loose to enjoy dinner in the cockpit while we admire our surroundings. During the meal, today's 40% likelihood of showers becomes 100%, but surprisingly, the sun never stops shining. Just when we thought things couldn't possibly be better, we are rewarded with a vivid double rainbow, one end of which touches down in the harbor...a good omen and a perfect ending to the day.
[/caption]Rainshowers overnight give way to sun and clouds at daybreak. We linger at our anchorage in Valley Cove over breakfast in the cockpit, admiring this incredible setting. There is a 40% chance of rain today, but the morning sky does an impressive job of masking this possibility.
By mid-morning, Cutter Loose is moored in Northeast Harbor, a short journey of three miles from our anchorage in Somes Sound. Northeast Harbor is the place to be on a boat on Mount Desert Island. This small village offers essential services for cruising sailors (i.e., bakery, grocery store, laundromat, bank, etc.) without being a touristy t shirt shopping district. The mooring agent informs us that there are fewer boaters visiting Northeast Harbor this year. This is bad news for the village, but good news for us. We may remain on our moooring for as long as we wish.
[caption id="attachment_989" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of Northeast Harbor from Thuya Gardens"]
[/caption]In the afternoon, we dinghy to Asticou Inn's landing for a visit to Thuya Lodge and Gardens. This was the summer home of Joseph Henry Curtis, a 19th century Boston landscape architect. Mr. Curtis donated this property to a local public land trust. The gardens are impeccably designed and maintained.
Afterwards, we enjoy a beverage on the terrace at the Asticou Inn overlooking the harbor. While we are admiring the view, a group of 20 touring bicyclists arrive at the Inn. They are part of a week-long organized trip sponsored by Vermont Bicycle Tours. Through our conversations with members of this group, we learn more about bicycling opportunities on the Island.
[caption id="attachment_990" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Double rainbow over Cutter Loose in Northeast Harbor"]
[/caption]We return to Cutter Loose to enjoy dinner in the cockpit while we admire our surroundings. During the meal, today's 40% likelihood of showers becomes 100%, but surprisingly, the sun never stops shining. Just when we thought things couldn't possibly be better, we are rewarded with a vivid double rainbow, one end of which touches down in the harbor...a good omen and a perfect ending to the day.
Tuesday, July 26, 2011
Tuesday, July 26th
Rain showers rinse the deck of Cutter Loose throughout the night. Morning brings overcast skies and cool temperatures. We dig out fleece and socks from the clothes locker. This is starting to feel more like Maine.
[caption id="attachment_973" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Windjammer gaff-rigged schooner underway in Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]
The harbor entertainment continues this morning over a mug of hot tea in the cockpit of Cutter Loose as the windjammers prepare to get underway. As the skippers bark commands, the crew and the passengers hoist sail while the ship is still at anchor. A team of four able bodied seamen tackle the manual windlass on the foredeck in an effort to weigh anchor. They energetically push and pull the windlass handles, similar to gandy dancers on a railroad car. Eventually, the forward momentum of the ship breaks the anchor's grip and the vessel sails smartly out of the harbor.
[caption id="attachment_974" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Bass Harbor Head, leaving Blue Hill Bay and entering Frenchman Bay"]
[/caption]
We steer Cutter Loose southeast through Eggemoggin Reach and into Jericho Bay. By 1:30 PM, we have transited the narrow channel through Casco Passage and enter Blue Hill Bay en route to Mount Desert Island. At the southern tip of the island, we glide past Bass Harbor Head as we leave Blue Hill Bay behind and enter Frenchman Bay. We pass the sailing centers of Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor, opting instead for the solitude of an overnight anchorage in Somes Sound.
[caption id="attachment_975" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Fog settling in on Somes Sound, Mt. Desert Island"]
[/caption]
Somes Sound is a five mile fjord, the only one of its kind on the U.S. Atlantic coast. By 4 PM, Cutter Loose is at anchor in Valley Cove. We are surrounded by sheer rocky cliffs that fall hundreds of feet to the water. The water here is deep...too deep. Cutter Loose is anchored in 40 feet of water only 50 yards from shore. We are treated to a brief view of this incredible scenery before the anchorage is encased in a layer of fog.
We will hope for clear weather in the morning so that we can fully capture this setting in a photograph. But the odds are not with us on this account. The weather radar shows a line of showers and thunderstorms on the leading edge of a cold front to our west. Rain is a certainty tonight. It may take the better part of tomorrow for this system to pass. After all, this is Downeast Maine.
[caption id="attachment_973" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Windjammer gaff-rigged schooner underway in Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]The harbor entertainment continues this morning over a mug of hot tea in the cockpit of Cutter Loose as the windjammers prepare to get underway. As the skippers bark commands, the crew and the passengers hoist sail while the ship is still at anchor. A team of four able bodied seamen tackle the manual windlass on the foredeck in an effort to weigh anchor. They energetically push and pull the windlass handles, similar to gandy dancers on a railroad car. Eventually, the forward momentum of the ship breaks the anchor's grip and the vessel sails smartly out of the harbor.
[caption id="attachment_974" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Bass Harbor Head, leaving Blue Hill Bay and entering Frenchman Bay"]
[/caption]We steer Cutter Loose southeast through Eggemoggin Reach and into Jericho Bay. By 1:30 PM, we have transited the narrow channel through Casco Passage and enter Blue Hill Bay en route to Mount Desert Island. At the southern tip of the island, we glide past Bass Harbor Head as we leave Blue Hill Bay behind and enter Frenchman Bay. We pass the sailing centers of Northeast Harbor and Southwest Harbor, opting instead for the solitude of an overnight anchorage in Somes Sound.
[caption id="attachment_975" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Fog settling in on Somes Sound, Mt. Desert Island"]
[/caption]Somes Sound is a five mile fjord, the only one of its kind on the U.S. Atlantic coast. By 4 PM, Cutter Loose is at anchor in Valley Cove. We are surrounded by sheer rocky cliffs that fall hundreds of feet to the water. The water here is deep...too deep. Cutter Loose is anchored in 40 feet of water only 50 yards from shore. We are treated to a brief view of this incredible scenery before the anchorage is encased in a layer of fog.
We will hope for clear weather in the morning so that we can fully capture this setting in a photograph. But the odds are not with us on this account. The weather radar shows a line of showers and thunderstorms on the leading edge of a cold front to our west. Rain is a certainty tonight. It may take the better part of tomorrow for this system to pass. After all, this is Downeast Maine.
Monday, July 25th
A lazy start to the day leads to an 11:30 AM departure from our anchorage at Pulpit Harbor. After all, this is the relaxation phase of our summer cruise. Today we sail 16 miles north to Bucks Harbor. Cutter Loose is anchored just outside of the mooring field on the east side of the harbor.
[caption id="attachment_951" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The gaffed rig schooner Mercantile anchored in Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]
Shortly after our arrival, a procession of four Windjammer vessels silently enter the harbor sailing downwind carrying full sail. We are treated to a front row seat for this fascinating performance. Once in the harbor, each ship abruptly turns 180 degrees into the wind, dropping the bow anchor and chain in the process. The vessels decelerate upwind until the fisherman style anchor catches on the mud bottom of the harbor, jerking the ship to a sudden halt. Setting the anchor in this traditional manner plays out in 60 seconds or less.
[caption id="attachment_952" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Flaking the headsail on the bowsprit of the schooner Mercantile with Cutter Loose in the background"]
[/caption]
Everything is accomplished in the traditional manner on a Windjammer cruise. Once the anchor is set, the foredeck crew crawls out on the bowsprit to flake the headsails. At dusk, kerosene lanterns hang in the rigging, alerting other vessels to a ship at anchor. It is a delight to share this anchorage with these magnificent vessels.
There is a 70% likelihood of rain tonight. The Windjammer crews erect canvas tarps over the deck to keep the passengers dry. On Cutter Loose, we zip in the canvas enclosure to the cockpit and call it a night.
[caption id="attachment_953" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in the shadow of the granite cliffs at Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_951" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The gaffed rig schooner Mercantile anchored in Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]Shortly after our arrival, a procession of four Windjammer vessels silently enter the harbor sailing downwind carrying full sail. We are treated to a front row seat for this fascinating performance. Once in the harbor, each ship abruptly turns 180 degrees into the wind, dropping the bow anchor and chain in the process. The vessels decelerate upwind until the fisherman style anchor catches on the mud bottom of the harbor, jerking the ship to a sudden halt. Setting the anchor in this traditional manner plays out in 60 seconds or less.
[caption id="attachment_952" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Flaking the headsail on the bowsprit of the schooner Mercantile with Cutter Loose in the background"]
[/caption]Everything is accomplished in the traditional manner on a Windjammer cruise. Once the anchor is set, the foredeck crew crawls out on the bowsprit to flake the headsails. At dusk, kerosene lanterns hang in the rigging, alerting other vessels to a ship at anchor. It is a delight to share this anchorage with these magnificent vessels.
There is a 70% likelihood of rain tonight. The Windjammer crews erect canvas tarps over the deck to keep the passengers dry. On Cutter Loose, we zip in the canvas enclosure to the cockpit and call it a night.
[caption id="attachment_953" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in the shadow of the granite cliffs at Bucks Harbor"]
[/caption]
Monday, July 25, 2011
Sunday, July 24th
After breakfast ashore (Maine blueberry pancakes), we continue our ecumenical tour of New England by attending the 9:30 AM worship service at St. Thomas Episcopal Church in Camden. The remainder of the morning is devoted to domestic tasks, including laundry and grocery shopping.
[caption id="attachment_943" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pulpit Harbor, North Haven Island"]
[/caption]
By 2 PM, Cutter Loose is free of her mooring in Camden Harbor and bound for Pulpit Harbor on Northhaven Island. We enter the harbor, straightforwardly navigating Pulpit Rock, a huge monolithic outcropping in the center of the entrance. The harbor is surrounded by private homes, our view of which is partially obstructed by forests of pine. This is a scenic little harbor. From our anchorage, we enjoy a direct view of the Camden Hills, about ten miles to our west. The hills remain backlit by a pale orange glow well after sunset.
[caption id="attachment_943" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pulpit Harbor, North Haven Island"]
[/caption]By 2 PM, Cutter Loose is free of her mooring in Camden Harbor and bound for Pulpit Harbor on Northhaven Island. We enter the harbor, straightforwardly navigating Pulpit Rock, a huge monolithic outcropping in the center of the entrance. The harbor is surrounded by private homes, our view of which is partially obstructed by forests of pine. This is a scenic little harbor. From our anchorage, we enjoy a direct view of the Camden Hills, about ten miles to our west. The hills remain backlit by a pale orange glow well after sunset.
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Saturday, July 23rd - lay day in Camden
[caption id="attachment_932" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="View of Mount Battie from Camden Harbor"]
[/caption]
We are awakened at the sound of raindrops at first light. Instinctively, we spring into action to close the ports and hatches. There is something comforting about the sound of rain drops on deck. Rain or no rain, Camden is one of the most picturesque harbors anywhere. The Windjammer fleet is based in Camden. On Sunday morning, passengers board these vintage sailing vessels for a week-long cruise of Downeast Maine.
[caption id="attachment_931" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Windjammer fleet based in Camden Harbor"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_933" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of Camden Harbor from atop Mount Battie"]
[/caption]
By 10 AM, the skies have become clear. It will be another hot day in Camden. After lunch, we hike from sea level to 1300 feet as we summit Mount Battie. The views from the top are well worth the climb. We spot Cutter Loose, a distant speck in the harbor. The outline of Cadillac Mountain on Mt. Desert Island is clearly visible on the horizon, as are the hundreds of islands in between. This special place is truly a sailing paradise. The wind blows most every day (strongest in the afternoon) and there are hundreds of harbors, coves, towns and passageways between the islands to explore. We will dedicate the next three weeks to the pursuit of relaxation and discovery.
A stop at the bookstore produces an apology on the part of the sales clerk for yesterday's misinformation. This seems sufficient. Three months ago, I may have been more direct with this character. But the God's honest truth is that this liveaboard lifestyle has a mellowing effect on one's demeanor. Anything short of a grounding or other life-threatening situation just isn't worth becoming agitated.
We are now confirmed for tonight's performance of Thirty Nine Steps at the Camden Opera House. The cast of four is very professional and the clever use of minimalist props add interest. However, the murder mystery plot is weak and silly. The performance was billed as an Alfred Hitchcock whodunnit. But in reality, it is slapstick humor in the style of Monty Python. The significance of the title is the only mysterious aspect of this production.
It is 10:30 PM by the time we return to Cutter Loose. The sky is clear and moonless, revealing an infinite number of stars and constellations. The harbor is eerily quiet and dark. As we dinghy towards our mooring, there is an absence of activity in the harbor. There are no cockpit conversations or warm lights glowing in the cabins of the moored boats. This seems rather unusual for a Saturday night in the sailing capital of Penobscot Bay.
The weather forecast for tomorrow is for lower humidity with high temperatures in the seventies. This is more in keeping with our expectations for a summer cruise to Maine.
[/caption]We are awakened at the sound of raindrops at first light. Instinctively, we spring into action to close the ports and hatches. There is something comforting about the sound of rain drops on deck. Rain or no rain, Camden is one of the most picturesque harbors anywhere. The Windjammer fleet is based in Camden. On Sunday morning, passengers board these vintage sailing vessels for a week-long cruise of Downeast Maine.
[caption id="attachment_931" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Windjammer fleet based in Camden Harbor"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_933" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of Camden Harbor from atop Mount Battie"]
[/caption]By 10 AM, the skies have become clear. It will be another hot day in Camden. After lunch, we hike from sea level to 1300 feet as we summit Mount Battie. The views from the top are well worth the climb. We spot Cutter Loose, a distant speck in the harbor. The outline of Cadillac Mountain on Mt. Desert Island is clearly visible on the horizon, as are the hundreds of islands in between. This special place is truly a sailing paradise. The wind blows most every day (strongest in the afternoon) and there are hundreds of harbors, coves, towns and passageways between the islands to explore. We will dedicate the next three weeks to the pursuit of relaxation and discovery.
A stop at the bookstore produces an apology on the part of the sales clerk for yesterday's misinformation. This seems sufficient. Three months ago, I may have been more direct with this character. But the God's honest truth is that this liveaboard lifestyle has a mellowing effect on one's demeanor. Anything short of a grounding or other life-threatening situation just isn't worth becoming agitated.
We are now confirmed for tonight's performance of Thirty Nine Steps at the Camden Opera House. The cast of four is very professional and the clever use of minimalist props add interest. However, the murder mystery plot is weak and silly. The performance was billed as an Alfred Hitchcock whodunnit. But in reality, it is slapstick humor in the style of Monty Python. The significance of the title is the only mysterious aspect of this production.
It is 10:30 PM by the time we return to Cutter Loose. The sky is clear and moonless, revealing an infinite number of stars and constellations. The harbor is eerily quiet and dark. As we dinghy towards our mooring, there is an absence of activity in the harbor. There are no cockpit conversations or warm lights glowing in the cabins of the moored boats. This seems rather unusual for a Saturday night in the sailing capital of Penobscot Bay.
The weather forecast for tomorrow is for lower humidity with high temperatures in the seventies. This is more in keeping with our expectations for a summer cruise to Maine.
Saturday, July 23, 2011
Friday, July 22nd
[caption id="attachment_907" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Curtis Island Light, entrance to Camden Harbor"]
[/caption]
Our destination for today is Camden Harbor, just six miles from Rockland. There is a warm breeze out of the west. We escape the heat and humidity by sailing a series of tacks parallel to the western shore of Penobscot Bay. With deep water and a light breeze, we can enjoy this daysail without being particularly attentive to the charts. The Camden Hills create a lush green backdrop for our liesurely sail. Camden refers to itself as "where the mountains meet the sea". This gorgeous setting is unlike anything we have witnessed thusfar on our summer cruise.
By mid-afternoon, Cutter Loose is tied to a mooring in Camden Harbor. The wind in the harbor is a 15 knot downdraft from Mount Battie, which helps to abate the afternoon heat. The harbor is filled with interesting sailing vessels. Since leaving Portland, we have noticed that there are fewer large powerboats cruising Penobscot Bay. The vast majority of boats in Tenants Harbor, Rockland and Camden are sailing vessels.
We dinghy ashore to re-familiarize ourselves with Camden. At the Owl and Turtle Bookshop, we purchase tickets for a local theatrical performance...a comedy entitled 39 Steps. But, there is a slight catch. The salesperson at the bookstore explains that tonight's performance will be presented at the Rockport Opera House located about two miles from Camden. He provides explicit walking directions to Rockport. Being supporters of the arts and avid hikers, we view this as a dual opportunity to visit Rockport (as opposed to Rockland) while getting in some some needed exercise.
[caption id="attachment_908" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A Beltie standing tall at Aldemere Farms near Rockport"]
[/caption]
The 45 minute hike past historic houses and farms is pleasant, but the wind has now become calm and the heat and humidy are oppressive. We walk by Aldemere, a farm that raises Belted Galloways. "Belties" are a breed of cattle with white midsections.
We arrive in Rockport in plenty of time for the performance, but soaked with perspiration. We are hopeful that the auditorium is air conditioned. But the Opera House is locked and there are no patrons in sight. There will be no performance here in Rockport tonight.
After enjoying a refreshing glass of lemonade in Rockport, we hike back to Camden and stop at the Opera House where the final act of 39 Steps is underway. We must have another conversation with the bookstore clerk in the morning. But in the meantime, we stroll the pleasant streets of Camden before boarding the dinghy for the return trip to Cutter Loose.
[/caption]Our destination for today is Camden Harbor, just six miles from Rockland. There is a warm breeze out of the west. We escape the heat and humidity by sailing a series of tacks parallel to the western shore of Penobscot Bay. With deep water and a light breeze, we can enjoy this daysail without being particularly attentive to the charts. The Camden Hills create a lush green backdrop for our liesurely sail. Camden refers to itself as "where the mountains meet the sea". This gorgeous setting is unlike anything we have witnessed thusfar on our summer cruise.
By mid-afternoon, Cutter Loose is tied to a mooring in Camden Harbor. The wind in the harbor is a 15 knot downdraft from Mount Battie, which helps to abate the afternoon heat. The harbor is filled with interesting sailing vessels. Since leaving Portland, we have noticed that there are fewer large powerboats cruising Penobscot Bay. The vast majority of boats in Tenants Harbor, Rockland and Camden are sailing vessels.
We dinghy ashore to re-familiarize ourselves with Camden. At the Owl and Turtle Bookshop, we purchase tickets for a local theatrical performance...a comedy entitled 39 Steps. But, there is a slight catch. The salesperson at the bookstore explains that tonight's performance will be presented at the Rockport Opera House located about two miles from Camden. He provides explicit walking directions to Rockport. Being supporters of the arts and avid hikers, we view this as a dual opportunity to visit Rockport (as opposed to Rockland) while getting in some some needed exercise.
[caption id="attachment_908" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A Beltie standing tall at Aldemere Farms near Rockport"]
[/caption]The 45 minute hike past historic houses and farms is pleasant, but the wind has now become calm and the heat and humidy are oppressive. We walk by Aldemere, a farm that raises Belted Galloways. "Belties" are a breed of cattle with white midsections.
We arrive in Rockport in plenty of time for the performance, but soaked with perspiration. We are hopeful that the auditorium is air conditioned. But the Opera House is locked and there are no patrons in sight. There will be no performance here in Rockport tonight.
After enjoying a refreshing glass of lemonade in Rockport, we hike back to Camden and stop at the Opera House where the final act of 39 Steps is underway. We must have another conversation with the bookstore clerk in the morning. But in the meantime, we stroll the pleasant streets of Camden before boarding the dinghy for the return trip to Cutter Loose.
Friday, July 22, 2011
Thursday, July 21st
[caption id="attachment_898" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Bike Fridays go shopping in Tenants Harbor, ME"]
[/caption]
Yesterday, we traveled to Rockland by bicycle. Today, we return to Rockland under sail with a close eye on the weather.
By 9 AM, the anchor is up in Tenants Harbor and the wind is already humming out of the south at 15 knots. With southerly winds and a northerly destination, we enjoy a smooth sail downwind to Rockland. By the time Cutter Loose rounds Owl's Head Light to enter Rockland Harbor. the wind has increased to 20 knots and Penobscot Bay is churning with whitecaps.
[caption id="attachment_899" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Owl's Head Light, entrance to Rockland Harbor"]
[/caption]
The purpose of today's trip is to seek refuge from from strong southwesterly winds that are forecasted for this afternoon and this evening. Rockland Harbor is a large body of water that offers good protection from winds out of the south and west. Our plan is to anchor in the southwest corner of the harbor in the protective lee of the hills and trees that line the shore. There is less than one half mile of fetch between our anchorage and land. Presumably, wind and waves will have little chance to build up in our little corner of the harbor given our location. But Notus is not to be denied today.
By 2 PM, south and west winds are piping through the anchorage at a steady 22 knots with gusts to 30. Cutter Loose is dancing around her anchor while we are nestled comfortably in the cockpit, insulated from the wind by a canvas enclosure.
By 9 PM, the wind has subsided to a steady 15 knots with gusts to 20. This weather system is expected to weaken overnight, paving the way for a short sail to Camden on Friday.
[/caption]Yesterday, we traveled to Rockland by bicycle. Today, we return to Rockland under sail with a close eye on the weather.
By 9 AM, the anchor is up in Tenants Harbor and the wind is already humming out of the south at 15 knots. With southerly winds and a northerly destination, we enjoy a smooth sail downwind to Rockland. By the time Cutter Loose rounds Owl's Head Light to enter Rockland Harbor. the wind has increased to 20 knots and Penobscot Bay is churning with whitecaps.
[caption id="attachment_899" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Owl's Head Light, entrance to Rockland Harbor"]
[/caption]The purpose of today's trip is to seek refuge from from strong southwesterly winds that are forecasted for this afternoon and this evening. Rockland Harbor is a large body of water that offers good protection from winds out of the south and west. Our plan is to anchor in the southwest corner of the harbor in the protective lee of the hills and trees that line the shore. There is less than one half mile of fetch between our anchorage and land. Presumably, wind and waves will have little chance to build up in our little corner of the harbor given our location. But Notus is not to be denied today.
By 2 PM, south and west winds are piping through the anchorage at a steady 22 knots with gusts to 30. Cutter Loose is dancing around her anchor while we are nestled comfortably in the cockpit, insulated from the wind by a canvas enclosure.
By 9 PM, the wind has subsided to a steady 15 knots with gusts to 20. This weather system is expected to weaken overnight, paving the way for a short sail to Camden on Friday.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Wednesday, July 20th - lay day at Tenants Harbor
Today, Cutter Loose remains at anchor in Long Cove at Tenants Harbor while we explore the countryside by bicycle. We load our gear into the dinghy and head towards the closest floating dock, which happens to be a lobsterman's co-op. The employees politely grant permission to tie our dinghy to the float for the day.
We cycle north along ME 131 to Thomaston, aided by a tailwind. The terrain and road conditions remind us of Pennsylvania...rolly, narrow berm and deteriorating pavement. An hour later, we enter the Town of Rockland, the largest of all Penobscot Bay communities.
Main Street in Rockland offers four city blocks of retail establishments, restaurants, theaters and museums. There is a steady stream of Route 1 traffic on Main Street as tourists stream northeast to Camden, Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. Rockland is also a point of embarkation via ferry to the various islands and communities that comprise Penobscot Bay.
[caption id="attachment_875" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="The Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland"]
[/caption]
Our destination is the Farnsworth Art Museum on Main Street, which features a major collection of paintings and illustrations by three generations of artists including N.C. Wyeth, Andrew Wyeth and Jamie Wyeth. N.C. Wyeth was an iconic illustrator. Andrew Wyeth spent 30 years painting scenes from the stark home of Christina and Alvaro Olson in nearby Cushing, ME. Perhaps his most famous work of art is Christina's World, which we recently had the opportunity to appreciate at MOMA in Manhatten. The exhibit at Farnsworth includes over 30 of Andrew's paintings and sketches of the Olson home.
We return to Tenants Harbor via ME 73. This morning's tailwind is now a headwind. It is 6 PM and we have cycled 31 miles by the time we return to the dinghy. A stiff 20 knot southwesterly makes for a bouncy and wet ride back to Cutter Loose.
The weather map is very complicated. There are two low pressure centers to the north and northeast of Penobscot Bay. Two additional low pressure centers are located over the Great Lakes and pushing east. The NWS has just issued a small craft advisory for Thursday. The forecast is for winds out of the southwest at 20 knots with gusts to 25 and a 40% chance of precipitation. We will obtain an updated forecast and reevaluate our options in the morning.
We cycle north along ME 131 to Thomaston, aided by a tailwind. The terrain and road conditions remind us of Pennsylvania...rolly, narrow berm and deteriorating pavement. An hour later, we enter the Town of Rockland, the largest of all Penobscot Bay communities.
Main Street in Rockland offers four city blocks of retail establishments, restaurants, theaters and museums. There is a steady stream of Route 1 traffic on Main Street as tourists stream northeast to Camden, Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. Rockland is also a point of embarkation via ferry to the various islands and communities that comprise Penobscot Bay.
[caption id="attachment_875" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="The Farnsworth Art Museum in Rockland"]
[/caption]Our destination is the Farnsworth Art Museum on Main Street, which features a major collection of paintings and illustrations by three generations of artists including N.C. Wyeth, Andrew Wyeth and Jamie Wyeth. N.C. Wyeth was an iconic illustrator. Andrew Wyeth spent 30 years painting scenes from the stark home of Christina and Alvaro Olson in nearby Cushing, ME. Perhaps his most famous work of art is Christina's World, which we recently had the opportunity to appreciate at MOMA in Manhatten. The exhibit at Farnsworth includes over 30 of Andrew's paintings and sketches of the Olson home.
We return to Tenants Harbor via ME 73. This morning's tailwind is now a headwind. It is 6 PM and we have cycled 31 miles by the time we return to the dinghy. A stiff 20 knot southwesterly makes for a bouncy and wet ride back to Cutter Loose.
The weather map is very complicated. There are two low pressure centers to the north and northeast of Penobscot Bay. Two additional low pressure centers are located over the Great Lakes and pushing east. The NWS has just issued a small craft advisory for Thursday. The forecast is for winds out of the southwest at 20 knots with gusts to 25 and a 40% chance of precipitation. We will obtain an updated forecast and reevaluate our options in the morning.
Tuesday, July 19, 2011
Tuesday, July 19th
Today, Cutter Loose is bound for the promised land of Penobscot Bay...the mecca for east coast cruising sailors. Our jewel of an anchorage at Jewell Island makes leaving difficult. We linger over breakfast in the cockpit, finally convincing ourselves to weigh anchor at 9 AM.
Our course today takes us east past Cape Small, Boothbay and Muscongus Bay. We pass within a few miles of Monhegan Island, shrouded in a thin layer of fog. At 3 PM, we alter course to the northeast and enter Penobscot Bay, sailing past Burnt Island and Mosquito Island. We can clearly see waves breaking on the rocky shores of these islands. Obviously, the dense pine forests have learned to thrive in a nutrient base of sheer stone. This outstanding scenery is unmistakably and uniquely Maine.
[caption id="attachment_863" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The Jamie Wyeth studio in a restored lighthouse at the entrance to Tenants Harbor"]
[/caption]
The lighthouse and bell tower at the Southern Island entrance to Tenants Harbor are owned by Jamie Wyeth, son of Andrew Wyeth. The lighthouse appears in several Wyeth paintings.
At 5 PM, the anchor is down in Long Cove. There is a noticeable drop in temperature and humidity. Our journey today covers 52 miles of the Maine coastline. It is a landmark day, signaling our final full day of travel to our summer destination and the fulfillment of a personal goal held for over three decades. Forty seven days and 1,000 miles ago, we departed Rock Hall, MD. Our arrival in Penobscot Bay signals the beginning of leisurely days filled with short daysails, scenic anchorages and shoreside exploration.
Our course today takes us east past Cape Small, Boothbay and Muscongus Bay. We pass within a few miles of Monhegan Island, shrouded in a thin layer of fog. At 3 PM, we alter course to the northeast and enter Penobscot Bay, sailing past Burnt Island and Mosquito Island. We can clearly see waves breaking on the rocky shores of these islands. Obviously, the dense pine forests have learned to thrive in a nutrient base of sheer stone. This outstanding scenery is unmistakably and uniquely Maine.
[caption id="attachment_863" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The Jamie Wyeth studio in a restored lighthouse at the entrance to Tenants Harbor"]
[/caption]The lighthouse and bell tower at the Southern Island entrance to Tenants Harbor are owned by Jamie Wyeth, son of Andrew Wyeth. The lighthouse appears in several Wyeth paintings.
At 5 PM, the anchor is down in Long Cove. There is a noticeable drop in temperature and humidity. Our journey today covers 52 miles of the Maine coastline. It is a landmark day, signaling our final full day of travel to our summer destination and the fulfillment of a personal goal held for over three decades. Forty seven days and 1,000 miles ago, we departed Rock Hall, MD. Our arrival in Penobscot Bay signals the beginning of leisurely days filled with short daysails, scenic anchorages and shoreside exploration.
Monday, July 18, 2011
Monday, July 18th
At 6 AM, a light rain is already falling in Portland harhor. Yesterday's forecast called for afternoon showers and thunderstorms on Monday. We begin the mental process of preparing for another lay day in Portland. By 8 AM, the shower has passed and the skies brighten. The Sirius marine weather radar, however, shows a line of thunderstorms to the west.
At 9:45 AM, we leave our slip at DeMillo's Marina and head east into Casco Bay, threading the narrow channel through Diamond Pass and heading east into Hussey Channel. A three foot swell from the east causes Cutter Loose to pitch, then roll as we turn to the northeast towards Jewell Island on the eastern edge of Casco Bay. Once inside the lee of Jewell Island, the water becomes flat and the ride becomes more comfortable.
[caption id="attachment_844" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in Jewell Cove, Casco Bay, ME"]
[/caption]
By 11:30 AM, Cutter Loose is anchored in a fiord-like cove at the northeast corner of Jewell Island. This is a place of incredible beauty. At low tide, there is a 20 foot wall of slate outcroppings on both our port and starboard sides. There is 14 feet of water under the keel of Cutter Loose at low tide. But the anchorage is so narrow that swing room is severely restricted. The other boats in this anchorage line up fore and aft along the centerline of the cove.
[caption id="attachment_841" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Hiking amidst the ferns on Jewell Island"]
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Rain begins to fall in the anchorage shortly after our arrival. But by late afternoon, the skies have cleared somewhat and it is time to explore ashore. We land the dinghy on a slate ledge and clambor up the rock wall for a hike to the Punchbowl, a circular beach on the ocean side of the island.
At this juncture of the cruise, there is a noticeable change in our surroundings. Rocky outcroppings and ledges exposed at low tide have become the norm. While there are many scenic harbors and coves to explore in Casco Bay, we are anxious to continue on to the mecca of downeast cruising...Penobscot Bay.
[caption id="attachment_842" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Punchbowl at low tide"]
[/caption]
At 9:45 AM, we leave our slip at DeMillo's Marina and head east into Casco Bay, threading the narrow channel through Diamond Pass and heading east into Hussey Channel. A three foot swell from the east causes Cutter Loose to pitch, then roll as we turn to the northeast towards Jewell Island on the eastern edge of Casco Bay. Once inside the lee of Jewell Island, the water becomes flat and the ride becomes more comfortable.
[caption id="attachment_844" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in Jewell Cove, Casco Bay, ME"]
[/caption]By 11:30 AM, Cutter Loose is anchored in a fiord-like cove at the northeast corner of Jewell Island. This is a place of incredible beauty. At low tide, there is a 20 foot wall of slate outcroppings on both our port and starboard sides. There is 14 feet of water under the keel of Cutter Loose at low tide. But the anchorage is so narrow that swing room is severely restricted. The other boats in this anchorage line up fore and aft along the centerline of the cove.
[caption id="attachment_841" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Hiking amidst the ferns on Jewell Island"]
[/caption]Rain begins to fall in the anchorage shortly after our arrival. But by late afternoon, the skies have cleared somewhat and it is time to explore ashore. We land the dinghy on a slate ledge and clambor up the rock wall for a hike to the Punchbowl, a circular beach on the ocean side of the island.
At this juncture of the cruise, there is a noticeable change in our surroundings. Rocky outcroppings and ledges exposed at low tide have become the norm. While there are many scenic harbors and coves to explore in Casco Bay, we are anxious to continue on to the mecca of downeast cruising...Penobscot Bay.
[caption id="attachment_842" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The Punchbowl at low tide"]
[/caption]
Sunday, July 17th - lay day in Portland
It is a hot and humid day in Portland with the temperatures topping out at 90 degrees. We begin the day with a Starbucks and walk to Congress Street for the 10 AM worship service at the First Parish Unitarian Universalist Church. After the service, one final stop at Whole Foods on our return to the boat insures that the galley will be adequately stocked to keep the crew happy and well-nourished as we head east from Portland.
[caption id="attachment_817" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cherie visits Cutter Loose in Portland"]
[/caption]
Cherie returns to Cutter Loose for a Sunday visit. Between boat chores, we walk the streets of Portland in search of ice cream. Cherie "scoops" us in the final seconds by sprinting to the cashier to pay for our confections. We certainly appreciate her generosity of time, transportation and shopping skills in helping us to accomplish our shoreside tasks. Well done, Cherie.
[caption id="attachment_816" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Condos and marinas in the Old Port neighborhood of Portland"]
[/caption]
Unlike Portsmouth, NH, Portland's orientation is focused on the harbor. Commercial Street passes alongside the various wharves, and as such, is the busiest street in Old Port with an abundance of t shirt shops, bars, restaurants and crowds. The section of Old Port between Fore Street and Congress Street is less crowded and more charming, with funky restored buildings, brick sidewalks, public plazas and scores of restaurants. In fact, Portland is the culinary capital of Maine. Its restaurants are featured frequently in national foodie publications.
Tomorrow we head east from Portland en route to Penobscot Bay, Blue Hill Bay and Frenchman Bay. Our progress will be tempered by the anticipated passage of a cold front on Monday.
[caption id="attachment_817" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cherie visits Cutter Loose in Portland"]
[/caption]Cherie returns to Cutter Loose for a Sunday visit. Between boat chores, we walk the streets of Portland in search of ice cream. Cherie "scoops" us in the final seconds by sprinting to the cashier to pay for our confections. We certainly appreciate her generosity of time, transportation and shopping skills in helping us to accomplish our shoreside tasks. Well done, Cherie.
[caption id="attachment_816" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Condos and marinas in the Old Port neighborhood of Portland"]
[/caption]Unlike Portsmouth, NH, Portland's orientation is focused on the harbor. Commercial Street passes alongside the various wharves, and as such, is the busiest street in Old Port with an abundance of t shirt shops, bars, restaurants and crowds. The section of Old Port between Fore Street and Congress Street is less crowded and more charming, with funky restored buildings, brick sidewalks, public plazas and scores of restaurants. In fact, Portland is the culinary capital of Maine. Its restaurants are featured frequently in national foodie publications.
Tomorrow we head east from Portland en route to Penobscot Bay, Blue Hill Bay and Frenchman Bay. Our progress will be tempered by the anticipated passage of a cold front on Monday.
Saturday, July 16th
[caption id="attachment_819" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Anchorage at Chandler Cove, Little Chebeague Island"]
[/caption]
The water in Chandler Cove is perfectly flat this morning. Lobstermen announce daybreak by hauling pots nearby Cutter Loose. We enjoy a relaxing morning, then it is anchor up at 10:15 AM.
[caption id="attachment_815" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Sharing the Portland Harbor ship's channel with Enchantment of the Seas"]
[/caption]
Our destination today is DiMillo's Marina in the Old Port waterfront district of Portland, about 7 miles west of Chandler Cove. We pass to the northwest of Long Island, then hug the southeastern shore of Great Diamond Island and Little Diamond Island en route to Portland Harbor. As Cutter Loose approaches the ship's channel, she is dwarfed by the 990 foot cruise ship Enchantment of the Seas being escorted to the deep water pier by a gaggle of tugs. The streets of Old Port will be packed with Royal Carribean passengers this afternoon.
Our primary mission for the afternoon is provisioning. We are fortunate to have a niece that lives nearby. Cherie has graciously agreed to provide transportation to Sam's Club and other local grocery stores. It is a productive afternoon. Provisions are procured and stored aboard while Cutter Loose receives a thorough cleaning.
We reward ourselves with dinner at one of the local Commercial Street eateries. Although the cruise ship has already departed, Commercial Street is buzzing with Saturday night activity. Portland is renowned for its dining establishments and most of them are filled to capacity tonight. We will explore the town in more depth tomorrow.
[/caption]The water in Chandler Cove is perfectly flat this morning. Lobstermen announce daybreak by hauling pots nearby Cutter Loose. We enjoy a relaxing morning, then it is anchor up at 10:15 AM.
[caption id="attachment_815" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Sharing the Portland Harbor ship's channel with Enchantment of the Seas"]
[/caption]Our destination today is DiMillo's Marina in the Old Port waterfront district of Portland, about 7 miles west of Chandler Cove. We pass to the northwest of Long Island, then hug the southeastern shore of Great Diamond Island and Little Diamond Island en route to Portland Harbor. As Cutter Loose approaches the ship's channel, she is dwarfed by the 990 foot cruise ship Enchantment of the Seas being escorted to the deep water pier by a gaggle of tugs. The streets of Old Port will be packed with Royal Carribean passengers this afternoon.
Our primary mission for the afternoon is provisioning. We are fortunate to have a niece that lives nearby. Cherie has graciously agreed to provide transportation to Sam's Club and other local grocery stores. It is a productive afternoon. Provisions are procured and stored aboard while Cutter Loose receives a thorough cleaning.
We reward ourselves with dinner at one of the local Commercial Street eateries. Although the cruise ship has already departed, Commercial Street is buzzing with Saturday night activity. Portland is renowned for its dining establishments and most of them are filled to capacity tonight. We will explore the town in more depth tomorrow.
Friday, July 15, 2011
Friday, July 15th
There is nothing quite as satisfying as being underway early in the morning after a weather-related delay. We have paid homage to Mother Nature and she has rewarded us with a magnificent day. The sky is crystal clear. The sun is shining. A few residual ocean swells from the east offer a gentle reminder of the storm that has passed. A mug of hot tea takes the chill out of the early morning air. We are back in exploration mode. Wow, this is living.
Cutter Loose has been flirting with Maine for the past few days, passing across the border, then retreating to New Hampshire. Today we take our first full step in cruising the coast of the Pine Tree State. Our journey will take us some 50 miles along the southern coast of Maine, past Kennebunkport and Cape Elizabeth and into Casco Bay. We elect to sail a few miles to the northeast past Portland Harbor and into Hussey Sound in search of an anchorage for the night.
Casco Bay is an archipelago of over 200 islands, most of which are long and narrow and extend from the southwest to the northeast. It would take the better part of a lifetme to explore all of these islands. There is deep water between most of the islands, but some of the passageways are extremely narrow. The rocky outcroppings exposed at low tide are intimidating.
Ferries, lobster boats and pleasure craft seem to be everywhere in this island chain. Portland is the Seattle of the east coast. Casco Bay island residents commute to Portland via ferries. Many of the homes are perched on bluffs overlooking the water. Almost every island has a ferry dock. Rule #1 is to anticipate the movement of the ferries and avoid being caught where the ferries want to be.
Since the weather tonight is calm, we opt for an anchorage in Chandler Cove, just off of Little Chebeague Island. From here, it is a short run to Portland Harbor in the morning.
Cutter Loose has been flirting with Maine for the past few days, passing across the border, then retreating to New Hampshire. Today we take our first full step in cruising the coast of the Pine Tree State. Our journey will take us some 50 miles along the southern coast of Maine, past Kennebunkport and Cape Elizabeth and into Casco Bay. We elect to sail a few miles to the northeast past Portland Harbor and into Hussey Sound in search of an anchorage for the night.
Casco Bay is an archipelago of over 200 islands, most of which are long and narrow and extend from the southwest to the northeast. It would take the better part of a lifetme to explore all of these islands. There is deep water between most of the islands, but some of the passageways are extremely narrow. The rocky outcroppings exposed at low tide are intimidating.
Ferries, lobster boats and pleasure craft seem to be everywhere in this island chain. Portland is the Seattle of the east coast. Casco Bay island residents commute to Portland via ferries. Many of the homes are perched on bluffs overlooking the water. Almost every island has a ferry dock. Rule #1 is to anticipate the movement of the ferries and avoid being caught where the ferries want to be.
Since the weather tonight is calm, we opt for an anchorage in Chandler Cove, just off of Little Chebeague Island. From here, it is a short run to Portland Harbor in the morning.
Thursday, July 14th - lay day in Isles of Shoals
[caption id="attachment_788" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Star Island Resort and Conference Center, Isles of Shoals"]
[/caption]
Last night's cold front and related thunderstorms wreak havoc on our plan to sail to Portland today. At daybreak, the skies are clear, but a gusty northeast wind causes Cutter Loose to bob and dance around her mooring in the relative protection of Gosport Harbor. The forecast calls for 20 knot northeasterlies. Since our destination is to the northeast, this means that we will be motoring into wind driven swells for nine hours...not exactly what we would call fun. We elect to remain in Gosport Harbor today to allow the after effects of the storm to abate.
By mid-afternoon, winds have subsided and backed to the southwest. The haze and humidity have given way to perfectly clear skies. The I-95 bridge in Kittery is clearly visible on the horizon some 9 miles from our location. This bodes well for travel tomorrow.
Tonight's spectacular sunset is choreographed with the rise of a gorgeous full moon in the east. Somehow, being on the water heightens our senses and makes us more appreciative of the natural beauty that surrounds us.
[caption id="attachment_786" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sunset at Isles of Shoals"]
[/caption]
[caption id="attachment_787" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Moonrise at Isles Of Shoals"]
[/caption]
[/caption]Last night's cold front and related thunderstorms wreak havoc on our plan to sail to Portland today. At daybreak, the skies are clear, but a gusty northeast wind causes Cutter Loose to bob and dance around her mooring in the relative protection of Gosport Harbor. The forecast calls for 20 knot northeasterlies. Since our destination is to the northeast, this means that we will be motoring into wind driven swells for nine hours...not exactly what we would call fun. We elect to remain in Gosport Harbor today to allow the after effects of the storm to abate.
By mid-afternoon, winds have subsided and backed to the southwest. The haze and humidity have given way to perfectly clear skies. The I-95 bridge in Kittery is clearly visible on the horizon some 9 miles from our location. This bodes well for travel tomorrow.
Tonight's spectacular sunset is choreographed with the rise of a gorgeous full moon in the east. Somehow, being on the water heightens our senses and makes us more appreciative of the natural beauty that surrounds us.
[caption id="attachment_786" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Sunset at Isles of Shoals"]
[/caption][caption id="attachment_787" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Moonrise at Isles Of Shoals"]
[/caption]
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Wednesday, July 13th
Today's tide schedule dictates a 12:45 PM departure from the Marina at Harbour Place in Portsmouth. This permits yet another relaxed breakfast at a sidewalk cafe in Market Square.
At 12:55 PM, we contact our bridgetender friend at Memorial Bridge, requesting a 1 PM opening. We hover closer to the bridge just prior to opening, not wanting to evoke the chastisement we received from this gentleman earlier in the week. Even though the tide is slack, there is still a considerable amount of current pushing Cutter Loose towards the bridge. Arrive at the opening too soon and we risk being swept against a 20 foot bridge with a 62 foot mast. Arrive too late and we risk a verbal whiplashing by the bridgetender.
Precisely at 1 PM, the bridge begins to creak and groan. Within seconds of the opening, Cutter Loose has transited the bridge and is proceding downriver free of criticism from our friendly bridgetender friend. No sooner are we under the bridge than a call on VHF 13 is transmitted by a commercial fishing vessel requesting the bridgetender to hold the opening for a few more minutes. This vessel is so far upriver that it is not even visible to us. The bridgetender calmly reassures the captain of the fishing trawler that the bridge will remain in the lifted position until the vessel arrives. There is definitely a hierarchy of priorities on the part of this friendly bridgetender and pleasure boats are at the bottom of the heap. No problem. We transmit our expression of gratitude to Mr. Friendly. We are headed downriver to sea. All is right with the world.
[caption id="attachment_773" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Smuttynose Island in the Isles of Shoals"]
[/caption]
Today's destination is Gosport Harbor in the Isles of Shoals, just 9 short miles from Memorial Bridge. Cutter Loose is currently attached to a Portsmouth Yacht Club mooring between Smuttynose Island and Star Island. The rule here is that transients are permitted to use the PYC moorings free of charge. But if a member of the club should arrive, the transient boat would be required to move off of the mooring and into the general anchorage area. This is a low-risk proposition. There is little threat of yacht club members arriving in the late afternoon thunderstorms that are pounding this harbor.
Star Island is the home of a retreat center operated by the Unitarian Universalist Church. Many other church groups utilize this facility as well. There is ferry service to the island from Portsmouth.
There is one more line of showers and thunderstorms to the west that will pass over the Isles of Shoals in the next hour. This precipitation is associated with a weak cold front that will make its way offshore overnight. The forecast calls for sunny skies tomorrow with moderate winds out of the northwest. This raises the possibility of a spirited sail in the morning as we head northeast to Portland.
[caption id="attachment_774" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Celebrating our arrival at Smuttynose with a Smuttynose"]
[/caption]
At 12:55 PM, we contact our bridgetender friend at Memorial Bridge, requesting a 1 PM opening. We hover closer to the bridge just prior to opening, not wanting to evoke the chastisement we received from this gentleman earlier in the week. Even though the tide is slack, there is still a considerable amount of current pushing Cutter Loose towards the bridge. Arrive at the opening too soon and we risk being swept against a 20 foot bridge with a 62 foot mast. Arrive too late and we risk a verbal whiplashing by the bridgetender.
Precisely at 1 PM, the bridge begins to creak and groan. Within seconds of the opening, Cutter Loose has transited the bridge and is proceding downriver free of criticism from our friendly bridgetender friend. No sooner are we under the bridge than a call on VHF 13 is transmitted by a commercial fishing vessel requesting the bridgetender to hold the opening for a few more minutes. This vessel is so far upriver that it is not even visible to us. The bridgetender calmly reassures the captain of the fishing trawler that the bridge will remain in the lifted position until the vessel arrives. There is definitely a hierarchy of priorities on the part of this friendly bridgetender and pleasure boats are at the bottom of the heap. No problem. We transmit our expression of gratitude to Mr. Friendly. We are headed downriver to sea. All is right with the world.
[caption id="attachment_773" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Smuttynose Island in the Isles of Shoals"]
[/caption]Today's destination is Gosport Harbor in the Isles of Shoals, just 9 short miles from Memorial Bridge. Cutter Loose is currently attached to a Portsmouth Yacht Club mooring between Smuttynose Island and Star Island. The rule here is that transients are permitted to use the PYC moorings free of charge. But if a member of the club should arrive, the transient boat would be required to move off of the mooring and into the general anchorage area. This is a low-risk proposition. There is little threat of yacht club members arriving in the late afternoon thunderstorms that are pounding this harbor.
Star Island is the home of a retreat center operated by the Unitarian Universalist Church. Many other church groups utilize this facility as well. There is ferry service to the island from Portsmouth.
There is one more line of showers and thunderstorms to the west that will pass over the Isles of Shoals in the next hour. This precipitation is associated with a weak cold front that will make its way offshore overnight. The forecast calls for sunny skies tomorrow with moderate winds out of the northwest. This raises the possibility of a spirited sail in the morning as we head northeast to Portland.
[caption id="attachment_774" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Celebrating our arrival at Smuttynose with a Smuttynose"]
[/caption]
Tuesday, July 12th - lay day in Portsmouth
The emphasis today is on relaxation and enjoyment of this gem of a city. We linger over Starbucks, blueberry muffins and the morning newspaper in Market Square. The news seems repetitous and irrelevant. People watching is way more interesting than the same old news about political squabbling in Washington. Other than daily Internet updates on the Tour de France, we are beginning to sense our gradual withdrawl from current events. Our world is becoming more about seeing new places, meeting new people and moving the boat when it seems like the right thing to do.
[caption id="attachment_752" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A harbinger of things to come"]
[/caption]
By mid-morning, we embark on a hike to Kittery, Maine. Today is hot and humid by Portsmouth standards. A stop at the outlet mall in Kittery results in the purchase of a Calphalon non-stick skillet for the galley. By the time we return to Portsmouth with our purchase, we have logged nine miles on this hike. There is just enough time remaining in the afternoon for one last boat chore...changing the oil in the diesel engine.
[caption id="attachment_754" align="alignright" width="300" caption="k.d. lang at the Portsmouth Music Hall"]
[/caption]
Tonight's entertainment is an uptempo concert at the Portsmouth Music Hall featuring k.d. lang and the Siss Boom Bang. k.d. delivers a rock solid performance. Her vocals are powerful. The ballads, performed with acoustic instruments, are exceptional. Between songs, she jokes about her sexual orientation, referring at one point to her banjo playing acumen as a "chick magnet". The band is equally as talented with heavy emphasis on backup harmony and pedal steel guitar licks. The hall is packed with an enthusiastic and appreciative audience. k.d. responds with three encores.
After the show, many of the concert-goers stop at the Congress Street sidewalk cafes for a refreshment and to compare notes on the performance. On this, our final night in Portsmouth, we pause to soak in the ambience of this lovely summer evening. By the time we return to Cutter Loose, it is a few minutes shy of midnight. Yet another outstanding day.
[caption id="attachment_752" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A harbinger of things to come"]
[/caption]By mid-morning, we embark on a hike to Kittery, Maine. Today is hot and humid by Portsmouth standards. A stop at the outlet mall in Kittery results in the purchase of a Calphalon non-stick skillet for the galley. By the time we return to Portsmouth with our purchase, we have logged nine miles on this hike. There is just enough time remaining in the afternoon for one last boat chore...changing the oil in the diesel engine.
[caption id="attachment_754" align="alignright" width="300" caption="k.d. lang at the Portsmouth Music Hall"]
[/caption]Tonight's entertainment is an uptempo concert at the Portsmouth Music Hall featuring k.d. lang and the Siss Boom Bang. k.d. delivers a rock solid performance. Her vocals are powerful. The ballads, performed with acoustic instruments, are exceptional. Between songs, she jokes about her sexual orientation, referring at one point to her banjo playing acumen as a "chick magnet". The band is equally as talented with heavy emphasis on backup harmony and pedal steel guitar licks. The hall is packed with an enthusiastic and appreciative audience. k.d. responds with three encores.
After the show, many of the concert-goers stop at the Congress Street sidewalk cafes for a refreshment and to compare notes on the performance. On this, our final night in Portsmouth, we pause to soak in the ambience of this lovely summer evening. By the time we return to Cutter Loose, it is a few minutes shy of midnight. Yet another outstanding day.
Monday, July 11, 2011
Monday, July 11th - live free or die
Our destination today is the Marina at Harbour Place on the Piscataqua River in downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire. We time our departure from Pepperell Cove to arrive at the marina at slack tide, passing the Portsmouth Naval Shipyard where nuclear submarines visit to be refueled. Tidal currents in the river average 4 knots. Even at dead slack tide, there are a few knots of current pushing against the bow of Cutter Loose.
[caption id="attachment_740" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A bird's eye view of Cutter Loose at the Memorial Bridge in Portsmouth, NH"]
[/caption]
In order to gain access to the marina, we must pass under the Memorial Bridge. This is a lift bridge that opens by demand on the hour and the half hour. We arrive at the bridge and contact the bridge operator on VHF 13 at 10:55 AM to confirm the 11 AM opening. When the bridge is lifted, the operator chides us on VHF channel 13 for taking too much time to pass under the bridge..."I'm not going to keep this bridge open all day waiting for you to get here!" Once through the opening, we politely thank him and wish him a pleasant day. He responds in kind.
The marina is located just upriver from the Memorial Bridge. Within minutes of passing under the bridge, we maneuver Cutter Loose alongside a long linear floating face dock. The current here is creating boiling eddies in the water. When a boat passes in the river, the wake and the current combine to create a bouncy experience on board the boat. We carry six large rubber fenders on Cutter Loose and it is immediaely apparent that we will need all six and then some to create a buffer between the boat and the face dock.
Since we have access to water in the marina, the first order of business is a thorough scrubbing of Cutter Loose, both above decks and below. Today's high temperature in Portsmouth will reach 90. This is the first time we have utilized the air conditioning system on board the boat since New York City.
[caption id="attachment_741" align="alignright" width="225" caption="North Chuch in Market Square, Portsmouth, NH"]
[/caption]
We selected this marina because of its convenient access to downtown amenities. Portsmouth is a lovely historic town. The architecture is superb. Sidewalk restaurants and cafes are scattered throughout a nine square block area in the downtown. On a Monday evening, the sidewalks are filled with residents and visitors. The surrounding residential neighborhoods are as neat as a pin. And if that isn't enough of an attraction, Portsmouth is also the home of the Smuttynose Brewery, named after an island in the nearby Isle of Shoals archipelago. As we stroll through town referring to our tourist map, several residents stop to ask if we need directions. We are highly impressed with this friendly, walkable, highly livable community. We will continue our exploration of Portsmouth tomorrow.
[caption id="attachment_740" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A bird's eye view of Cutter Loose at the Memorial Bridge in Portsmouth, NH"]
[/caption]In order to gain access to the marina, we must pass under the Memorial Bridge. This is a lift bridge that opens by demand on the hour and the half hour. We arrive at the bridge and contact the bridge operator on VHF 13 at 10:55 AM to confirm the 11 AM opening. When the bridge is lifted, the operator chides us on VHF channel 13 for taking too much time to pass under the bridge..."I'm not going to keep this bridge open all day waiting for you to get here!" Once through the opening, we politely thank him and wish him a pleasant day. He responds in kind.
The marina is located just upriver from the Memorial Bridge. Within minutes of passing under the bridge, we maneuver Cutter Loose alongside a long linear floating face dock. The current here is creating boiling eddies in the water. When a boat passes in the river, the wake and the current combine to create a bouncy experience on board the boat. We carry six large rubber fenders on Cutter Loose and it is immediaely apparent that we will need all six and then some to create a buffer between the boat and the face dock.
Since we have access to water in the marina, the first order of business is a thorough scrubbing of Cutter Loose, both above decks and below. Today's high temperature in Portsmouth will reach 90. This is the first time we have utilized the air conditioning system on board the boat since New York City.
[caption id="attachment_741" align="alignright" width="225" caption="North Chuch in Market Square, Portsmouth, NH"]
[/caption]We selected this marina because of its convenient access to downtown amenities. Portsmouth is a lovely historic town. The architecture is superb. Sidewalk restaurants and cafes are scattered throughout a nine square block area in the downtown. On a Monday evening, the sidewalks are filled with residents and visitors. The surrounding residential neighborhoods are as neat as a pin. And if that isn't enough of an attraction, Portsmouth is also the home of the Smuttynose Brewery, named after an island in the nearby Isle of Shoals archipelago. As we stroll through town referring to our tourist map, several residents stop to ask if we need directions. We are highly impressed with this friendly, walkable, highly livable community. We will continue our exploration of Portsmouth tomorrow.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Sunday, July 10th
At 6:30 AM, we slip silently from our mooring in Salem Harbor, taking care not to awaken the Saturday night party crowd. Our journey today will take us 49 miles north, passing from Massachusetts into New Hampshire. The winds today are calm, so we rely entirely on horsepower to reach our destination.
Our course initially takes us northeast through Salem Sound, then around Cape Ann and due north into Bigelow Bight. By 1 PM, we leave the Isle of Shoals archipelago astern and soon we are entering the harbor in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. We steer a zigzag course through the channel in an effort to avoid the hundreds of lobster pot buoys that decorate the harbor.
We elect to drop the hook for the night in Pepperell Cove. The interesting aspect of this small cove is that it lies partially in New Hampshire and partially in Maine. We are anchored on the state line. When the wind is out of the south, Cutter Loose lies in New Hampshire. When the wind shifts to the southwest, she swings through the border into Maine.
Tomorrow, we will take a slip at a marina in the downtown area of Portsmouth in order to explore the town and to give Cutter Loose a much needed bath.
Our course initially takes us northeast through Salem Sound, then around Cape Ann and due north into Bigelow Bight. By 1 PM, we leave the Isle of Shoals archipelago astern and soon we are entering the harbor in Portsmouth, New Hampshire. We steer a zigzag course through the channel in an effort to avoid the hundreds of lobster pot buoys that decorate the harbor.
We elect to drop the hook for the night in Pepperell Cove. The interesting aspect of this small cove is that it lies partially in New Hampshire and partially in Maine. We are anchored on the state line. When the wind is out of the south, Cutter Loose lies in New Hampshire. When the wind shifts to the southwest, she swings through the border into Maine.
Tomorrow, we will take a slip at a marina in the downtown area of Portsmouth in order to explore the town and to give Cutter Loose a much needed bath.
Saturday, July 9th
[caption id="attachment_713" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum"]
[/caption]
Early morning clouds give way to sunny skies as the high speed ferry whisks us from Salem to Boston Harbor in 45 minutes. A brief subway ride south takes us to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum on the campus of U Mass Boston. The museum is located on a promontory overlooking Dorchester Bay with the Boston skyline as a backdrop.
[caption id="attachment_714" align="alignright" width="196" caption="Lobby of the Museum"]
[/caption]
One of the most interesting exhibits is the first televised presidential debate between Kennedy and Nixon in 1960. This exhibit explains how television forever changed the dynamics of presidential politics. The most intense exhibit involves 30 minutes of actual film footage recorded during the Cuban Missle Crisis, which underscores how this test of wills could easily have resulted in nuclear war between the U.S. and the Soviet Union. The exhibit on the death of President Kennedy is simply but powerfully expressed through Walter Cronkite's announcement on CBS News.
After a stroll through Boston Commons and downtown historic sites, we walk through the North End, Boston's Little Italy. The density of Italian eateries here is incredible. Even more incredible is the fact that all of them seem to be filled to overflowing with customers.
We notice that many visitors in the neighborhood are carrying small white boxes bearing the words "Mike's Pastries". Our curiosity forces us to investigate. When we finally find Mike's Pastries, there is a que of would-be customers snaked around the block. We decide to forego pastries at Mike's in the interest of catching the 8 PM high speed ferry back to Salem.
Albeit on a smaller scale than Boston, Salem is humming with activity on a Saturday night. Clear skies portend favorable weather for our departure from Salem in the morning.
[/caption]Early morning clouds give way to sunny skies as the high speed ferry whisks us from Salem to Boston Harbor in 45 minutes. A brief subway ride south takes us to the John F. Kennedy Presidential Library and Museum on the campus of U Mass Boston. The museum is located on a promontory overlooking Dorchester Bay with the Boston skyline as a backdrop.
[caption id="attachment_714" align="alignright" width="196" caption="Lobby of the Museum"]
[/caption]One of the most interesting exhibits is the first televised presidential debate between Kennedy and Nixon in 1960. This exhibit explains how television forever changed the dynamics of presidential politics. The most intense exhibit involves 30 minutes of actual film footage recorded during the Cuban Missle Crisis, which underscores how this test of wills could easily have resulted in nuclear war between the U.S. and the Soviet Union. The exhibit on the death of President Kennedy is simply but powerfully expressed through Walter Cronkite's announcement on CBS News.
After a stroll through Boston Commons and downtown historic sites, we walk through the North End, Boston's Little Italy. The density of Italian eateries here is incredible. Even more incredible is the fact that all of them seem to be filled to overflowing with customers.
We notice that many visitors in the neighborhood are carrying small white boxes bearing the words "Mike's Pastries". Our curiosity forces us to investigate. When we finally find Mike's Pastries, there is a que of would-be customers snaked around the block. We decide to forego pastries at Mike's in the interest of catching the 8 PM high speed ferry back to Salem.
Albeit on a smaller scale than Boston, Salem is humming with activity on a Saturday night. Clear skies portend favorable weather for our departure from Salem in the morning.
Friday, July 8, 2011
Friday, July 8th - lay day in Salem, Massachusetts
[caption id="attachment_698" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The House of the Seven Gables in Salem, Massachusetts"]
[/caption]It has been rainy and foggy most of the day in Salem. In the afternoon, we take advantage of a brief break in the weather to make our weekly mecca to the laundromat. We visit the Turner-Ingersoll mansion that served as the inspiration for Nathaniel Hawthorne's 1851 novel, The House of the Seven Gables.
Salem has much to offer its residents and visitors. The town is steeped in history. Historic buildings, an attractive waterfront, the splendid town green known as Salem Common and an abundance of restaurants combine to attract considerable tourism. A commuter rail station and a fast ferry make the City accessible to Boston. In fact, we chose Salem as a stopover, in part because we wanted to spend a day in Boston without negotiating Boston harbor. Weather permitting, we will make the trip to Boston in the morning. But this evening, the fog and drizzle have reduced visibility in the harbor to a few hundred feet.
[caption id="attachment_699" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Derby Wharf in Salem's historic waterfront district"]
[/caption]
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Thursday, July 7th
Today, we travel northwest from Provincetown across Cape Cod Bay and into Massachusetts Bay. The Boston skyline, visible in the distance, passes on our port beam at lunchtime. We continue northwest towards the town of Marblehead. But instead of entering Marblehead Harbor, we continue north on a circuitous route through Salem Sound and into Salem Harbor. Similar to other harbors, every square inch of deep water in Salem Harbor is covered with moorings. There is no space to drop the hook.
Today's weather is sunny, but not uncomfortably warm. In fact, we have not experienced heat and humidity since our stay in New York City on June 9th. Winds today are out of the northwest, which is a good sailing angle for our destination. But wind speeds are 5 knots or less, so we opt to motorsail the entire 53 nautical miles from Provincetown to Salem.
[caption id="attachment_690" align="alignleft" width="223" caption="Sculpture of Elizabeth Montgomery from the television series Bewitched"]
[/caption]
Our evening stroll through Salem reveals a heavy emphasis on witchery, sorcery and other fright attractions. Salem was a center of witchcraft persecution...a hysteria that swept through Puritan Massachusetts. In 1692, nineteen men and women were convicted of witchcraft and hung on Gallows Hill. One eighty year old man was crushed under heavy stones for refusing to submit to trial on witchcraft charges. Hundreds of others faced accusations of witchcraft. Several candlelight tours are underway in the historic district during our stroll. The sidewalk cafes and restaurants in Salem are well-patronized on this pleasant summer evening.
[caption id="attachment_692" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Salem storefront"]
[/caption]
Today's weather is sunny, but not uncomfortably warm. In fact, we have not experienced heat and humidity since our stay in New York City on June 9th. Winds today are out of the northwest, which is a good sailing angle for our destination. But wind speeds are 5 knots or less, so we opt to motorsail the entire 53 nautical miles from Provincetown to Salem.
[caption id="attachment_690" align="alignleft" width="223" caption="Sculpture of Elizabeth Montgomery from the television series Bewitched"]
[/caption]Our evening stroll through Salem reveals a heavy emphasis on witchery, sorcery and other fright attractions. Salem was a center of witchcraft persecution...a hysteria that swept through Puritan Massachusetts. In 1692, nineteen men and women were convicted of witchcraft and hung on Gallows Hill. One eighty year old man was crushed under heavy stones for refusing to submit to trial on witchcraft charges. Hundreds of others faced accusations of witchcraft. Several candlelight tours are underway in the historic district during our stroll. The sidewalk cafes and restaurants in Salem are well-patronized on this pleasant summer evening.
[caption id="attachment_692" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Salem storefront"]
[/caption]
Wednesday, July 6, 2011
Wednesday, July 6th - lay day in Provincetown
[caption id="attachment_674" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cycling amongst the dunes in the Cape Cod National Seashore"]
[/caption]
Today we dinghy ashore with the bicycles to explore the Cape Cod National Seashore. The Provincelands Bike Trail begins at Herring Cove Beach and meanders along the Atlantic side of the peninsula through mountainous sand dunes en route to Race Point Beach. The wind is so intense in this terrain that much of the vegetation has grown at an angle away from the prevailing wind. At the Province Lands Visitor Center, we learn about native species of plants and animals and the numerous shipwrecks that have occured on the Atlantic beaches. In the past decade, the U.S. Coast Guard has responded to over 700 calls from ships in distress along the Atlantic coast of the peninsula. The Cape Cod Canal is a lifesaver inasmuch as it eliminates the need to sail on the Atlantic side of the peninsula.
[caption id="attachment_676" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of the Provincetown harbor from atop the Pilgrim Monument (click on this photo to see location of Cutter Loose)"]
[/caption]
The Provincelands Bike Trail connects to the Head of the Meadow Trail which loops through ponds and wooded areas in the interior section of the "fist". We return to Provincetown for a late lunch and some people watching on Commercial Street, then cycle uphill to a bluff overlooking the town to tour the Pilgrim Monument. After climbing the 170 steps to the observation area, we are rewarded with a birds eye view of the peninsula. We spot Cutter Loose in the harbor, tugging at her mooring amidst the whitecaps.
After a stop at the grocery store for provisions, we crawl through the late afternoon Commercial Street crowd en route to the dinghy dock where we pack up the bikes for the return trip to Cutter Loose. By the end of the day, we have accumulated 18 mikes on our odometers.
The wind is now blowing a sustained 20 knots in the harbor and the dinghy bounces through the chop as we return to the mother ship. We settle in for the evening, preparing dinner and planning our itinerary for tomorrow.
[/caption]Today we dinghy ashore with the bicycles to explore the Cape Cod National Seashore. The Provincelands Bike Trail begins at Herring Cove Beach and meanders along the Atlantic side of the peninsula through mountainous sand dunes en route to Race Point Beach. The wind is so intense in this terrain that much of the vegetation has grown at an angle away from the prevailing wind. At the Province Lands Visitor Center, we learn about native species of plants and animals and the numerous shipwrecks that have occured on the Atlantic beaches. In the past decade, the U.S. Coast Guard has responded to over 700 calls from ships in distress along the Atlantic coast of the peninsula. The Cape Cod Canal is a lifesaver inasmuch as it eliminates the need to sail on the Atlantic side of the peninsula.
[caption id="attachment_676" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of the Provincetown harbor from atop the Pilgrim Monument (click on this photo to see location of Cutter Loose)"]
[/caption]The Provincelands Bike Trail connects to the Head of the Meadow Trail which loops through ponds and wooded areas in the interior section of the "fist". We return to Provincetown for a late lunch and some people watching on Commercial Street, then cycle uphill to a bluff overlooking the town to tour the Pilgrim Monument. After climbing the 170 steps to the observation area, we are rewarded with a birds eye view of the peninsula. We spot Cutter Loose in the harbor, tugging at her mooring amidst the whitecaps.
After a stop at the grocery store for provisions, we crawl through the late afternoon Commercial Street crowd en route to the dinghy dock where we pack up the bikes for the return trip to Cutter Loose. By the end of the day, we have accumulated 18 mikes on our odometers.
The wind is now blowing a sustained 20 knots in the harbor and the dinghy bounces through the chop as we return to the mother ship. We settle in for the evening, preparing dinner and planning our itinerary for tomorrow.
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Tuesday, July 5th
[caption id="attachment_654" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose passes under the Sagamore Bridge in the Cape Cod Canal"]
[/caption]
Our journey today takes us 36 miles from Red Brook Harbor, through the Cape Cod Canal and on to Provincetown, the "fist" of Cape Cod. Our departure is timed to coincide with a favorable tide through the Canal. The five foot tidal difference between Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay creates powerful currents and eddies. By 8 AM, Cutter Loose is making 10.5 knots over the ground through the Canal, being pushed by a 4 knot current. We transit the entire 17 miles of the Canal from Buzzards Bay to Sandwich in one hour, 20 minutes.
Once in Cape Cod Bay, a 10 knot northerly wind pushes Cutter Loose along on a liesurely close reach all the way to Provincetown. We are secured to a mooring inside the breakwater.
[caption id="attachment_656" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Friends meeting in Provincetown"]
[/caption]
The Independence Day celebrants have already departed Provincetown by the time we arrive. But there must be a gay pride gathering this week because the entire town is filled with couples of the same sex holding hands and engaging in other displays of affection. The merchants are selling a variety of special T shirts and other products to commemorate the event. There is also special entertainment for the delegates. The streets are filled with promotion agents, busily drumming up business for the evening performances. All of the participants seem to be acquainted. It appears that they genuinely enjoy one another's company because they greet one another warmly with hugs and kisses.
[caption id="attachment_657" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Friends introducing friends to other friends in Provincetown"]
[/caption]
To set the record straight, the Mayflower landed in Provincetown in 1620, not Plymouth. The Pilgrim immigrants spent a few months here before moving across the Bay to Plymouth.
[caption id="attachment_655" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The 252 foot Pilgrim's Monument in Provincetown"]
[/caption]
Tomorrow, we will explore the National Seashore and other local attractions.
[/caption]Our journey today takes us 36 miles from Red Brook Harbor, through the Cape Cod Canal and on to Provincetown, the "fist" of Cape Cod. Our departure is timed to coincide with a favorable tide through the Canal. The five foot tidal difference between Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod Bay creates powerful currents and eddies. By 8 AM, Cutter Loose is making 10.5 knots over the ground through the Canal, being pushed by a 4 knot current. We transit the entire 17 miles of the Canal from Buzzards Bay to Sandwich in one hour, 20 minutes.
Once in Cape Cod Bay, a 10 knot northerly wind pushes Cutter Loose along on a liesurely close reach all the way to Provincetown. We are secured to a mooring inside the breakwater.
[caption id="attachment_656" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Friends meeting in Provincetown"]
[/caption]The Independence Day celebrants have already departed Provincetown by the time we arrive. But there must be a gay pride gathering this week because the entire town is filled with couples of the same sex holding hands and engaging in other displays of affection. The merchants are selling a variety of special T shirts and other products to commemorate the event. There is also special entertainment for the delegates. The streets are filled with promotion agents, busily drumming up business for the evening performances. All of the participants seem to be acquainted. It appears that they genuinely enjoy one another's company because they greet one another warmly with hugs and kisses.
[caption id="attachment_657" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Friends introducing friends to other friends in Provincetown"]
[/caption]To set the record straight, the Mayflower landed in Provincetown in 1620, not Plymouth. The Pilgrim immigrants spent a few months here before moving across the Bay to Plymouth.
[caption id="attachment_655" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The 252 foot Pilgrim's Monument in Provincetown"]
[/caption]Tomorrow, we will explore the National Seashore and other local attractions.
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