Monday, October 31st - Special Halloween Edition

Today we welcome a special guest aboard Cutter Loose.  Popeye the Sailor Man has graciously agreed to join us for today's leg from the Alligator River to Belhaven, NC, a distance of 34 miles.

[caption id="attachment_1685" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose transits the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal"][/caption]

We are awake before dawn to welcome this iconic seaman aboard.  We weigh anchor and enter the Alligator River - Pungo River Canal.  This ditch is approximately 200 feet in width...much wider than the Dismal Swamp Canal and lacking the overhanging branches that collide with the rigging. 

At 10:30 AM, we pass under the Wilkerson Bridge at ICW milepost 126.  We have been anxious about this bridge for several months because its vertical clearance is 64 feet, slightly less than the 65 foot controlling bridge clearance for the ICW.  The masthead of Cutter Loose is 62 feet above waterline, plus an additional 18 inches for antennas.  It is a close fit, but we pass under the bridge without incident.  We attribute our success to the additional displacement resulting from Popeye's presence aboard Cutter Loose today.  In any event, it feels good to leave this bridge astern.

[caption id="attachment_1687" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Belhaven, NC waterfront"][/caption]

As we enter the Pungo River, the sun gives way to thickening clouds.  Rain is in the forecast.  We enter the channel to the small town of Belhaven, NC.  Cutter Loose is anchored just off the town's waterfront.  We dinghy ashore to explore the town with Popeye at the helm and friends Hayden and Radeen in tow.  We bid a fond farewell to our seafaring friend and return to Cutter Loose to assess the weather forecast and plan for tomorrow's journey along the ICW.

[caption id="attachment_1688" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Trick or treating, cruising style"][/caption]

Several of the vessels anchored nearby are flying the Canadian flag.  We have been listening to their conversations in French on the VHF for the last few days.  These cruising families have apparently organized a Halloween party, as the harbor is active with Canadian dinghies shuttling costumed children to the designated party boat anchored just upwind from Cutter Loose.  Unfortunately, we are not invited.  Perhaps the language barrier is insurmountable?  Or maybe Popeye is alien to the Canadian culture?

Sunday, October 30th

Temperatures drop into the thirties overnight, leaving a thin coating of frost on the deck of Cutter Loose at daybreak.  The morning sun makes short work of eliminating the skating rink as we sail downwind along the Pasquatank River.  The river is wide and shallow with tree-lined banks that protect us from the full force of the northerly winds.

At 11 AM, we leave the relative protection of the Pasquatank and enter the wide open waters of Albemarle Sound.  Although the crossing is only 12 miles, the Sound is notorious for short, steep waves.  But today, the wind is blowing a steady 14 knots from the north and our downwind sail in 2 to 3 foot waves is uneventful. 

[caption id="attachment_1682" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Swing bridge marking the entrance to the Alligator River "][/caption]

At 1 PM, we enter the Alligator River.  At this point, the Dismal Swamp Route comes to an end and re-joins the primary flow of ICW traffic traveling south through the Virginia Cut.  Similar to the Pasquatank, the Alligator River is wide with a well-marked channel along its centerline.  Cutter Loose continues to sail dead downwind under headsail alone.  

[caption id="attachment_1683" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Deep Point anchorage on the Alligator River"][/caption]

Twenty miles from its mouth, the Alligator River bends sharply to the east and narrows considerably.  After this turn, there are a few small pockets of deep water alongside the ICW channel that are protected from northerly winds by a scraggy wooded area and marshland.  We decide to call it a day and drop the hook in the company of about 20 other cruising boats.

[caption id="attachment_1684" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sunset on the Alligator River, Milepost 102 on the ICW"][/caption]

This is a remote area...no Internet hotspots, no cellphone coverage and no television.  But as darkness blankets the anchorage, the clear night sky stages an incredible star show.  Being positioned to appreciate gorgeous sunrises and sunsets is one of the most enjoyable aspects of living on the water.

Saturday, October 29th - another lay day in Elizabeth City

[caption id="attachment_1669" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Mariner's Wharf in Elizabeth City, NC"][/caption]

Today we have been tracking a deep 1000 millibar low pressure center that has been moving northward along the coast.  Early this morning, the low was located just to the southeast over Hatteras.  At 5 PM, it is located near the mouth of Delaware Bay.  This storm track translates to cloudy skies and 30 knot northwesterly winds here in Elizabeth City.  Since the next leg of our journey involves crossing the shallow, exposed waters of both Albemarle and Pamlico Sounds, we decide to wait out the storm in Elizabeth City.

[caption id="attachment_1670" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Museum of the Albemarle"][/caption]

After lunch aboard Island Spirit with friends Hayden and Radeen, we visit the Museum of the Albemarle, located just a few short steps from the waterfront.  Here the history of the 13 counties that form the northeast corner of North Carolina is presented in photographs and artifacts.  There is also an exhibit devoted to the role of the U.S. Coast Guard in the development of the region, since a USCG Air Station is located in Elizabeth City.  Visiting this State-sponsored museum is the perfect indoor activity on a blustery day.

The wind is still whistling through the rigging, creating a haunting howl.  But the barometer has bottomed out and is now on the rise.  Hopefully, sunny skies and calmer conditions will prevail tomorrow.  In the meantime, it is Saturday night in Elizabeth City...time to go out on the town.

Friday, October 28th - lay day in Elizabeth City

The cold front has passed and in its aftermath, temperatures have plummeted, the skies are overcast and rain is in the forecast.  The high temperature in Elizabeth City today is a breezy 55 degrees.

The weather picture in coastal North Carolina has become more complicated.  The remnants of a tropical system from Florida will move north along the coast and merge with today's cold front from the west to create a classic nor'easter that will bring high winds and unsettled weather to the area for the next few days.  Light rain is falling in Elizabeth City with heavier rain expected overnight.  Winds on Saturday are expected to be out of the northeast at 25 knots with gusts to 30.  Given this forecast, we are staying put until there is a turn for the better in the weather.  Albemarle Sound is the next attraction on our route.  This shallow body of water is notoriously nasty in windy conditions.  We intend to error on the side of caution.  We are in no particular hurry.  After all, it is late October.  Stormy weather is a natural part of the mix at this time of year.  Besides, Elizabeth City is a good place to wait out a nor'easter.

Our entertainment today is a trip to the local grocery store.  At noon, a driver from the store meets us at our dock and shuttles us to and from the store.  It is a very nice grocery store, but it is located two miles from the waterfront on a highway that is not particularly pedestrian or bicycle-friendly.  The shuttle service offerred by the grocery store is another example of Elizabeth City's hospitality.

Tonight we will enjoy game 7 of the World Series from the comfort and warmth of our cozy cabin.

Thursday, October 27th

The 8:30 AM bridge opening and lockage at South Mills occur without a hitch.  Cutter Loose is the first vessel out of the locks and into the Canal.  Here the narrow confines of the Dismal Swamp Canal give way to the wider, meandering waters of the Pasquotank River.  It is another gorgeous day in North Carolina with plenty of sunshine and temperatures topping off near 80 degrees.

However, a cold front is approaching the area and prudence dictates that we proceed with caution.  By noon, we have covered 20 miles and decide to call it a day and avail ourselves to the hospitality of Elizabeth City.

Elizabeth City has built a positive reputation for catering to cruising yachts.  The town offers free dockage for up to 48 hours.  In the afternoon, all of the visiting sailors are invited to a wine and cheese party on the town dock, at which time town officials describe the various restaurants and amenities of the town.  This informal event provides an opportunity to meet and greet cruisers with whom we have shared lockages during the past few days.

Our plan is to maintain a weather eye and plan our departure from Elizabeth City accordingly.  In the meantime, we will explore the town and catch up on chores and correspondence.

Wednesday, October 26th

[caption id="attachment_1631" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Transiting a railroad bridge on the Elizabeth River"][/caption]

Today's journey requires a full day's worth of effort to achieve a meager 28 nautical miles.  We are up and out of the South Municipal Boat Basin in Portsmouth and headed south on the Elizabeth River at 7:30 AM. 

Our first timed arrival of the day is a scheduled opening of the Gilmerton Bridge at 9:30 AM.  We arrive early.  Soon there are 15 pleasure boats jockeying for position to be the first vessel under the bridge when it opens.  The wind and current are moving all of the boats towards the bridge which makes it next to impossible to hold one's position in the River.  We reposition Cutter Loose near the back of the pack to avoid the fray.  When the bridgetender finally raises the bridge, there is little semblance of order in the processional queue.  We steer Cutter Loose along the centerline of the channel because of her 62 foot mast height versus the 65 foot vertical clearance at the center of the bridge.  Rather than proceeding under the bridge one vessel at a time, the armada of boats pass under the bridge three abreast.

[caption id="attachment_1630" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Jockeying for position at the Gilmerton Bridge"][/caption]

Once under the Gilmerton Bridge, there are two alternative waterway routes.  The first is the Virginia Cut which is preferred by commercial traffic and most pleasure boats.  The second is the Dismal Swamp Canal, which is a slightly longer but more scenic route.  We choose the latter.

[caption id="attachment_1634" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The beauty and serenity of the Dismal Swamp Canal"][/caption]

Construction began on the Dismal Swamp Canal in 1793.  The Canal was dug manually using slave labor.  Today the Canal is a national historic landmark.  Upon entering the Canal, the industrial character of the Elizabeth River becomes transformed into a narrow, pristine, tree-lined ditch about 40 feet in width and 9 feet in depth.  The water in the Canal is pitch black.

[caption id="attachment_1632" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Approaching the Deep Creek Lock on the Dismal Swamp Canal"][/caption]

Our second timed arrival of the day involves transiting the Deep Creek lock.  Again, we arrive in the company of seven other vessels seeking to enter the lock at its 10:30 AM opening.  The lock operator is very efficient in organizing the movement of vessels into and out of the lock.  It is a two hour process to enter the lock, close the lock doors, raise the water level seven feet and exit the lock when the doors are open.  Naturally, we are in the back of the pack, having underperformed in the battle of the bulge at the Gilmerton Bridge.

[caption id="attachment_1639" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose tying up alongside the walls of the Deep Creek Lock"][/caption]

At 3 PM, we leave Virginia and enter North Carolina.  The final timed arrival of the day is at the South Mills bridge and lock.  The last opening of the day is scheduled for 3:30 PM.  But our progress is slow...delayed by boats ahead of Cutter Loose in the Canal.  By the time we arrive at South Mills, we have missed the final opening of the day.  Cutter Loose is tied alongside the walls of the South Mills Bridge for the night, awaiting the 8:30 opening in the morning.

[caption id="attachment_1635" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose tied alongside the South Mills Bridge on the Dismal Swamp Canal"][/caption]

Tuesday, October 25th

Today is yet another beautiful day for cruising.  The anchor is up in Willoughby Bay at 7:40 AM for the short hop to Portsmouth, VA on the Elizabeth River, a distance of 12 miles. 

[caption id="attachment_1613" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Warship along the Elizabeth River"][/caption]

Our course takes us parallel to the Norfolk Naval Air Station, where a series of older warships including two carriers are dry docked for extensive repairs.  We steer Cutter Loose alongside the shipping channel in an effort to grant maneuvering room in the deep water to the large navy vessels, cargo ships and tugs.  There is constant ship-to-ship communication on the VHF radio.  By 9:45 AM, we are docked at the City of Portsmouth's municipal boat basin located at the edge of the City's Old Towne neighborhood and within easy walking distance of downtown amenities.  Portsmouth is located at mile zero of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.  From here, it is 1,250 statute miles along the waterway to Key West, FL.

[caption id="attachment_1615" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at the Portsmouth South Municipal Boat Basin"][/caption]

We convince our friends Hayden and Radeen to join us in an excursion to downtown Norfolk.  For $1.50 per person one way, we are whisked via water taxi across the Elizabeth River to Norfolk.  We enjoy lunch at a Cuban restaurant on Granby Street, then visit the Main Library and a huge downtown shopping mall. 

[caption id="attachment_1614" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Norfolk skyline"][/caption]

In the evening, we attend the 7 PM performance of the movie Footloose at a restored theater a few blocks from our slip at the South Boat Basin.  Instead of stadium seating, this theater features tables and swivel chairs.  A telephone on the table enables patrons to phone their food and beverage order to the kitchen.

Our day ashore provides a refreshing alternative to the cruising regimen.  After a chart discussion on tomorrow's itinerary, it is lights out to rest for our early start in the morning.

Monday, October 24th

Today's destination is Willoughby Bay in Norfolk, VA, a relatively short distance of 44 miles from our Jackson Creek anchorage in Deltaville, VA.  The wind today is less than 10 knots from the east, which permits us to motorsail south to Thimble Shoal, the line of demarcation between the Chesapeake Bay and Hampton Roads.

Hampton Roads refers generally to the body of water that connects the communities of Hamton, Newport News, Norfolk and Portsmouth.   The transition from the wide open bucolic waters of the Chesapeake Bay to the military/industrial character of Hampton Roads is dramatic.  We sail above the Interstate 64 tunnel and past historic Fort Wool to enter Willoughby Bay.

Willoughby Bay is a convenient harbor of refuge for pleasure boats transiting Hampton Roads.  The southern shore of the Bay is dominated by the Norfolk Naval Air Station.  There is a steady stream of helicopters and AWACS aircraft landing and taking off at this base.  To the north is Interstate 64 and its steady stream of traffic.  Willoughby Bay is not a destination to enjoy peace, quiet and solitude.

[caption id="attachment_1601" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="High School pal Jim and his wife Chris aboard Cutter Loose in Willoughby Bay"][/caption]

This afternoon, we enjoy visitors aboard Cutter Loose.  My high school best friend, Jim and his wife Chris drive to Willoughby Bay from their home in nearby Virginia Beach.  To their credit, Jim and Chris responded to a last minute opportunity to meet.  Later on, we are joined by Hayden and Radeen aboard Island Spirit who are sailing south in tandem with Cutter Loose. 

[caption id="attachment_1602" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Boat buddies Hayden and Radeen of Island Spirit aboard Cutter Loose"][/caption]

During the night, the wind shifts to the northwest and intensifies to 15 knots.  The anchor chain creaks and groans for the better part of the night as Cutter Loose responds to the gusts.  The noise from the anchor rode taken together with the highway noise makes for a restless night...all part of the cruising experience.

Sunday, October 23rd

With clear skies and temperatures hovering just below 50 degrees,  we weigh anchor in Solomons at 7 AM.  As we round Drum Point and turn east into the Patuxent River towards the Bay, the sun begins to rise out of the water.   A hot mug of tea in combination with the intensity of the morning sun contribute to a cozy cockpit.  

South of the Patuxent River, the Bay becomes an immense body of water.  The eastern shore is no longer visible as we motorsail along the western shore.  Our course takes us south, past the wide mouth of the Potomac River,  By noon, we leave Maryland and enter Virginia waters near Smith Point.  Soon, the Great Wicomico River and the Rappahannock River pass astern.

Our destination today is Deltaville, VA on the Piankatank River.  At 4:30 PM, Cutter Loose is anchored snugly in the South Branch of Jackson Creek.  The banks of the Creek are lined with lovely homes.  Our anchorage is safe and secure.

Also on today's agenda is an impromptu small scale family reunion.  My first cousin, Larry, lives in nearby Gloucester County.  By previous arrangement, we met Larry for dinner and conversation in Deltaville.  It has been nearly three decades since we have been in Larry's company, and it felt good to re-connect.  Thank you, Larry, for going the extra mile to find us in Deltaville.

[caption id="attachment_1588" align="aligncenter" width="274" caption="Eric and Cousin Larry in the cockpit of Cutter Loose"][/caption]

Saturday, October 22nd

The alarm sounds at 6 AM.  We emerge from the warmth and comfort of our sleeping bags to a chilly, 50 degree morning.  At 6:30 AM, first light filters through a layer of early morning clouds.  The gravitational pull of life ashore is weakening.  The diesel springs to life.  Docklines are stowed.  At precisely 7 AM, our ties to land are severed as Cutter Loose inches out of her slip. As if to applaud our newfound freedom, we are treated to a magnificent sunrise as we leave Swan Creek behind and round can 5 into the familiar waters of the Chesapeake Bay.  Day one of our winter cruise is officially underway.



[caption id="attachment_1578" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Passing under the Bay Bridge, the unoffical starting line of our winter cruise"][/caption]

As predicted, the wind today is from the northwest at 12 knots.  Cutter Loose is southbound on a comfortable beam reach.  At 9 AM, we pass under the Bay Bridge.  A Navy submarine appears on our starboard beam as we sail by the entrance to Annapolis harbor.

South of Annapolis, there is little traffic on the Bay.  By 5 PM, Cutter Loose is anchored in Back Creek at Solomons Island, MD.  Today's journey covers 55 nautical miles.  Clear skies tonight promise a calm and quiet, albeit chilly anchorage.

Friday, October 21st - winter cruise prologue

[caption id="attachment_1563" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Osprey Point Marina and Inn at Rock Hall, MD, homeport of Cutter Loose"][/caption]

Forty seven days ago, we arrived in Rock Hall, MD after having completed a summer cruise to Maine.  Tomorrow, we will sail Cutter Loose south in search of sunshine, warmth and perpetual summer.  Our destination is the Florida Keys and the Bahamas.  We will return to our home port of Rock Hall, MD in the spring of 2012. 

Cutter Loose is ready to go.  She is fully provisioned, the mechanicals are serviced and she is squeaky clean.  For the past few days, the weather on the Chesapeake Bay has been unsettled.  Yesterday, gale warnings were posted for the entire Bay.  Today, the weather is moderating, the sun is shining and the winds are backing to the west and northwest.  This should provide a favorable wind angle  for our journey south in the morning.

[caption id="attachment_1562" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose in her slip at Osprey Point Marina"][/caption]

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