[/caption]As predicted, strong trade winds dominate the weather picture in Green Turtle Cay for several days. Trade winds occur when a high pressure dome to the north (aka a “Bermuda high”) moves offshore from the Carolinas and becomes nearly stationary. Wind circulates in a clockwise pattern around the high pressure center. This results in an easterly flow in the general area to the south of the high, i.e., the Bahamas and Caribbean.
The Bermuda high is a stubborn beast. It will remain nearly stationary until the next winter cold front challenges its dominance and slowly pushes its way eastward. Since a new next cold front is not expected until the weekend, the next few days will bring easterlies in the 25 to 30 knot range. On the Atlantic Ocean side of Green Turtle Cay, the wind-driven waves are creating huge breakers on the reefs. Fortunately, the Green Turtle Club Marina in White Harbor is well-protected from the east. Cutter Loose is sandwiched between two 50+ foot trawlers that are docked on both sides. She tugs at her dock lines only when the gusts exceed 25 knots.
We will remain here at Green Turtle Cay for several days until the next cold front approaches from the north. Thereafter, the wind will gradually diminish for a day or two until the cold front passes. During this brief reprieve, we will move Cutter Loose further south to a location where we can seek protection from the northerly winds. After the passage of the cold front, the wind will subside for a few days before another Bermuda high becomes entrenched to the north, forcing us to scurry for cover once again from the strong easterlies. This weather pattern affords an opportunity to enjoy our surroundings at the Green Turtle Club and to explore this small island. Since the cost of meals at the Club offset the cost of our dockage, these days are filled with leisurely breakfasts and casual dinners in the dining room. In the afternoons, we gather with our Island Packet friends for a few games of dominoes. Although the resort includes accommodations, nearly all of the patrons at this time of year are cruisers. By the end of our first full day, we are on a first name basis with most of the boaters on the dock as well as Club staff.
[caption id="attachment_3190" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay"]
[/caption]For exercise, we walk three miles to the settlement of New Plymouth, located at the southernmost tip of the Cay. This is a small village with narrow streets, modest homes, shops, restaurants, churches, a school and a museum. The primary mode of transportation on the island is by golf cart. Without exception, residents and tourists wave as they pass by on their golf cart. Several drivers stop to offer us a ride, which we politely decline in the interest of fitness.
[caption id="attachment_3197" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Green Turtle Cay loyalist emblems"]
[/caption]The early inhabitants of the Bahamas in general and Green Turtle Cay in particular were Loyalists…those who opposed the revolutionary movement in what would become the United States. Black slaves also immigrated from the U.S. to the Bahamas after the Revolutionary War. The museum and adjacent sculpture garden document the plight of the Loyalists. Allegedly, they were shunned and persecuted by the colonists in America. When Britain took control of the Bahamas from Spain, the Loyalists moved here with the intent of establishing a farming economy. However, the sandy, rocky soil of the Bahamas is not conducive to agriculture. Many of the original settlements failed. Today, the shopkeepers are proud to explain that they are seventh generation residents of the island.
Beyond the settlement of New Plymouth, the remainder of the island is sparsely developed with vacation homes and a handful of small resorts and marinas. Some resort properties sustained damage during Hurricane Irene in August of 2011 and have not reopened.
[caption id="attachment_3196" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Live music at Green Turtle Club on Wednesday evening"]
[/caption]By Thursday afternoon, the intense easterlies begin to subside. We are watching the weather closely now as our opportunity to move Cutter Loose to the Sea of Abaco draws closer. The next leg of our journey requires settled weather. We must navigate our way into the Atlantic Ocean and re-enter the Sea of Abaco at Loggerhead Channel. Any significant amount of wind and/or ocean swell creates breaking waves in the channels, rendering this passage impassable.
We have enjoyed our relaxing stay at Green Turtle Cay. In the morning, it will be time to move south to discover new destinations.
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