Tuesday, November 29th

[caption id="attachment_2161" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at the 10 AM opening of the Bridge of Lions"][/caption]

Cooler air has filled in behind the passage of a cold front on Monday afternoon.  The anchor is up at Pine Island at 7:45 AM for the short trip to St. Augustine.  Early morning clouds give way to sunny skies and windy conditions as we make the 10 AM Bridge of Lions opening.  Within minutes, Cutter Loose is snugly secured to a  mooring in the harbor.  We will remain here for a few days to relax and enjoy the City.

St. Augustine is steeped in history.  Don Juan Ponce de Leon sailed here in 1513 and claimed the land for Spain.  But the Spanish experienced difficulty in establishing permanent settlements in this area.  Meanwhile, the French established a settlement nearby on the St. Johns River.  This caused Spain to redouble its efforts to fortify its claim.  The arrival of Spanish Admiral Menendez here in 1565 coincided with the Feast of St. Augustine.  Menendez defeated the French and built the town, 42 years before the English settlement in Jamestown and 55 years before the Pilgrims established the Plymouth colony.

[caption id="attachment_2146" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Flagler College"][/caption]

Fast forward to the 1880s, Henry Flagler transformed St. Augustine into a resort destination by building the Hotel Ponce de Leon.  Today, the former hotel is the  architectural centerpiece of Flagler College.  Students, boaters, tourists and residents alike contribute to the vitality of this City.

Monday, November 28th

We depart Fernandina Beach at 7:45 AM.  Our first objective is to take on fuel and water at Amelia Island Yacht Basin, just a few miles south of our mooring.  Before we can accomplish this task, we must navigate Cutter Loose through a section of very thin water on the Amelia River.  Despite the fact that we transit this section of the Waterway at mid-tide, there are only a few inches of water under the keel in certain shallow sections.

[caption id="attachment_2143" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Palm Valley home on the ICW"][/caption]

Our course today takes us through Sawpit Cut, across the St. Johns River and into Pablo Creek past the community of Jacksonville Beach.    We enter the Tolomato River and pass alongside a residential section of Palm Valley where lovely homes and boat docks face the ICW.

Skies are becoming increasingly cloudy and stormclouds are gathering on the horizon.  A cold front is approaching from the west.  Southerly winds have been increasing in intensity all day.  When we reach our anchorage at Pine Island at 4 PM, southerly winds give way to westerly, then northwesterly winds at 25 knots.  Bands of wind-driven rain are now moving through the area and Cutter Loose is heeling and swimming around her anchor. 

[caption id="attachment_2144" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Late afternoon storm on the ICW"][/caption]

Our 43 mile journey today positions Cutter Loose just 13 miles north of St. Augustine.  In the morning, we will make short work of this remaining distance.

Sunday, November 27th - lay day at Fernandina Beach

We begin the day at First Pres of Fernandina Beach where we are welcomed warmly by the parishioners.  After a cloudy start to the day, the sun makes an appearance in the early afternoon.  The temperature peaks at 75 degrees which serves to remind us that we are now in Florida.

We hike through the City's historic district, then meet the crews of Island Spirit and Winterset for dinner at Pablo's, one of the local Mexican restaurants. 

Tomorrow, there is a threat of thunderstorms in the afternoon as a slow moving cold front approaches from the west.  We will leave early in the morning  in an effort to make southerly progress before the weather deteriorates.

Images of Old Fernandina follow.

Saturday, November 26th

We are awake at dawn after a much appreciated quiet night at anchor.  The sun is just rising over Cumberland Island.  We take in the view from the cockpit (aka sunroom) of Cutter Loose, warmed by the comfort of a mug of hot tea.  Soon we are in the dinghy, headed ashore to explore the Island.

[caption id="attachment_2104" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A stroll through Cumberland Island's maritime forest"][/caption]

We follow a trail south through a maritime forest, densely populated by live oak trees strewn with spanish moss.  Cabbage palm and saw palmetto are equal co-inhabitants of the forest.  Several feral horses pass by on the trail, neither seeking or giving attention to passers-by.

[caption id="attachment_2105" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Feral horses wandering near the ferry landing"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2106" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Dungeness Ruins"][/caption]

At the southern end of the Island lies the mysterious Dungeness ruins.  There is a long history of homes on this site.  James Oglethorpe built a hunting lodge here in 1736 which he named Dungeness.  Revolutionary War hero General Nathaniel Greene acquired the property in exchange for a bad debt and his widow built a mansion and outbuildings here in 1803.   During the war of 1812, British troops occupied the mansion as headquarters.  Then, Henry Lee III (the father of Robert E. Lee) occupied the home beginning in 1818 until his death.  During the Civil War, the house was abandoned and burned.  Enter native Pittsburgher Thomas Carnegie (brother of Andrew) who built a 59 room mansion on the site in 1884.  In 1959, the mansion was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt.  The property is now part of a National Historic District preserved by the National Park Service.  The current residents of the ruins are diamondback rattlesnakes.  Visitors are advised to keep their distance.

[caption id="attachment_2111" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Thanksgiving survivors at Dungeness"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2108" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Salt water marsh at Dungeness"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_2107" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Vehicles at Dungeness abandoned by the Carnegies"][/caption]

The Dungeness ruins include a collection of automobiles, curiously abandoned by the Carnegies.  The rusted remains of these vehicles are situated side-by-side, as if they were parked in a garage.  The tires and steering wheels are still intact.

We return to the dinghy dock via the beach where we encounter flocks of sandpipers hopping along the edge of the water on one foot.  All manner of shells, flotsam and jetsom have accumulated here.  The dunes are enormous and covered with vegetation, demonstrating the inherent protective capability of barrier islands if left undisturbed.  Cumberland Island has been a most interesting and attractive destination and well worth a visit.





At noon, the anchor is up and we are underway in Cumberland Sound.  Traveling south, the ICW passes by the inland side of Fernandina Inlet, a deep water and well-marked entrance to the Atlantic Ocean.  Once through this passage, we bid farewell to Georgia and enter Florida, having accumulated 884 miles under the keel of Cutter Loose since we departed Rock Hall 36 days ago. 

The initial visual impression of Florida is not particularly inviting.  Heavy industry on the Amelia River can be seen as far as 5 miles away, with smoke spewing from the top of tall chimneys.  Once downwind of the smokestacks, we are treated to the odorous byproduct of a pulp mill.  Ramshackle industrial buildings and sunken barges line the Fernandina riverbank.  Between industrial bookends, the City of Fernandina Beach has developed a new marina and waterfront complex which is home port to many boaters living in the Jacksonville area.

Cutter Loose is tied to a Fernandina Marina mooring ball in the middle of the Amelia River.  Because we are moored in proximity to the Fernandina Inlet, the tidal currents in the River are significant.  A mooring is advantageous in that it eliminates the need to deploy hundreds of feet of anchor chain and worrry about whether the anchor will hold during the 180 degree tidal shifts.  Renting a mooring also provides priveleges at the marina, including convenient laundry facilities and a dinghy dock that provides immediate access to the downtown.

[caption id="attachment_2112" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Light up night in Fernandina Beach"][/caption]

The sound of Christmas carols wafts across the River to the mooring field.  Today is Fernandina's Christmas on the River celebration.  The town is packed with people.  Music and dance ensembles perform on the main stage.  The official lighting of the Christmas tree takes place at 6 PM, followed by more carols.  There is something incongruous about being outdoors, dressed in shorts and a short sleeved shirt, listening to Christmas music and participating in a tree lighting ceremony.  Just two days ago we celebrated Thanksgiving.  To some, today's celebration evokes the need for a transition period in order to ease into the Christmas season.

Friday, November 25th

To our extreme joy and relief, there is no traffic congestion in St. Marys, nor are there any reports of Black Friday human tramplings in the downtown shopping district.  There is, however, a short queue at the $5 per head pancake breakfast at the hotel.  The pancake choices for today include banana walnut, blueberry and plain.  They are fluffy and delicious.

After breakfast, we are shuttled from the dinghy dock to the local grocery store by van, courtesy of the organizers of this event.  At noon, it becomes apparent that the Thanksgiving celebration in St. Marys is winding down.  Cruisers are bidding one another farewell.  Boats are beginning to disappear from the harbor.  Except for the rip-roaring current in the harbor, we have enjoyed our time here.  But it is time to move on.

Our destination today is Cumberland Island, just 10 miles from St. Marys harbor.  Cumberland Island is a National Seashore, a protected area managed by the National Park Service.  Cutter Loose is anchored in a harbor just off of the ferry dock.  Since there are no bridges that connect Cumberland to the mainland, access to the Island is by ferry from St. Marys or by private boat.  Visitation is by reservation only, except for private boats.  The National Park Service limits the number of visitors each day. 

We watch as visitors arrive by ferry in mid-afternoon, laden with backpacks and camping gear.  There are a limited number of primitive campsites available on the Island.  Cumberland is a popular destination during the holiday weekend, especially since the weather is warm and sunny.  

Our anchorage is well-protected and serene.  The tidal currents here are much less intense than St. Marys and the wind is calm.  This will make for a quiet and restful night.  Tomorrow we will dinghy to the ferry dock to explore this barrier island.

Thursday, November 24th - Thanksgiving Edition

Thanksgiving Day dawns bright and sunny in St. Mary's City, GA, but the wind is howling through the harbor at a steady 20 knots with gusts to 25.  Temperatures will reach the mid to upper 60s today, but the strong northeast wind makes it feel much cooler.

Pat is busy baking pumpkin raisin walnut muffins for the big Thanksgiving feast in town.  The aromas in the galley this morning are tantalizing.  My contribution  is sampling these tasty morsels for quality control.  Just as I suspected, the muffins are delicious.

The anchorage is in chaos this morning.  With three knots of tidal current flowing southwest and an opposing 25 knots of wind, the orderly alignment of boats in the harbor is interrupted.  Anchored boats are pointing in all directions, sometimes swinging 360 degrees around their anchors.  Some are riding to current while others are riding to wind.  Several boats have dragged anchor and are  dangerously close to colliding with other anchored boats.  Some of these boats have weighed anchor and are circling further out in the harbor in search of a less congested location to drop the hook.  Among our many other blessings, we give thanks today for the fact that our anchor is holding.

At half past noon, we deliver our freshly baked muffins to the buffet table at the local hotel, then join the queue forming on the sidewalk for the 1 PM serving of Thanksgiving dinner.  Today, the process of serving the meal is highly organized and civilized.   In addition to  turkey and dressing, the buffet table includes every imaginable side dish and dessert.  We congregate with the other cruisers and linger after the meal to discuss favorite winter destinations. 





Afterwards, we stroll the streets of this small town to burn at least some of calories consumed during our Thanksgiving meal.  At every intersection, local residents greet us and welcome us to their town.  It is difficult to imagine a more hospitable setting for a gathering of unrelated guests.





When we return to Cutter Loose, the wind has calmed to a whisper and the calamity of this morning has given way to a settled evening at anchor.  This is a Thanksgiving that will not soon be forgotten.

[caption id="attachment_2076" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at anchor in St. Mary's City"][/caption]

Wednesday, November 23rd

At 4 AM, we are awakened by heavy rain and the rumble of thunder.  There is no hurry to weigh anchor this morning.  We are perfectly content to slumber and wait for the rain to subside.  Our destination is St. Mary's City, GA, just 30 miles to the south and an easy half day sail from our anchorage near Jekyll Island.

[caption id="attachment_2039" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Lighthouse and sand dunes under clearing skies on Little Cumberland Island"][/caption]

At 9 AM, the rain subsides to a drizzle and the anchor is up in Umbrella Creek, an appropriate location for a wet start to the day.  We enter the open waters of St. Andrew Sound, then follow the curvature of Cumberland Island south along protected inland waters.  Cumberland Island is a national seashore managed by the National Park Service.  It is home to wild horses that roam the beaches, foraging on sea oats.

The midday segment of today's leg is another tedious experience on the shallow Georgia section of the waterway.  Cutter Loose runs temporarily aground in a sharp bend of the Crooked River.  In several dredged channels with range markers, we experience depths of 6 feet at low tide.

[caption id="attachment_2040" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Gulls seeking opportunity in the wake of Cutter Loose"][/caption]

Our course this afternoon takes us alongside Naval Submarine Base Kings Bay, which is the U.S. Atlantic Fleet's homeport for nuclear submarines fitted with Trident missles.  Massive buildings on the base house subs that are being refitted.  Naval security vessels patrol the ICW to insure that vessels transiting the area keep their distance and keep moving.   When a sub is transiting the area, the ICW is closed in both directions for hours.  Today, there is no such delay. 

[caption id="attachment_2041" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="St, Mary's harbor"][/caption]

We steam ahead to the St. Mary's River.  The southern shore of the river is in Florida while the northern shore is in Georgia.  Several miles upstream is the town of St. Marys, GA, host of the annual Thanksgiving Day feast for transient boaters.   At 2:30 PM, Cutter Loose is anchored in St. Mary's harbor where the tidal currents are fierce.  There are already some 70 visiting boats at anchor with more expected to arrive in the hours leading up to Thanksgiving.

[caption id="attachment_2042" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Pre-Thanksgiving cruiser's reception at St. Marys"][/caption]

At 5:30 PM, all of the cruisers bring an appetizer to the local downtown hotel for a pre-Thanksgiving reception.  The place is packed with salty looking characters that descend on the serving table like a herd of hungry locusts.  We meet a couple from Toronto that had their boat trucked to Annapolis because hurricane damage to the Erie Canal lock system thwarted their plan to move their boat to the Hudson River. 

Watch for more details on St. Mary's City and the Thanksgiving feast for cruisers in tomorrow's post.  In the meantime, be sure to take time to count your blessings.  We wish you and yours a very Happy Thanksgiving.

Tuesday, November 22nd

It is yet another early morning departure for Cutter Loose and crew, since daylight hours are at a premium.  At 7 AM, the anchor is up in Cattle Pen Creek.

The tidal current carries Cutter Loose swiftly into Sapelo Sound, which is a well-marked ocean inlet.  It is tempting to abandon the ICW in favor of an outside run to Fernandina Inlet.  Since a cold front is expected to move through the area later today, and since it is unlikely that we could make Fernandina before dark, we elect to play it safe and keep our options open inside on the ICW. 

[caption id="attachment_2020" align="alignright" width="280" caption="Snowy egret working the shallows"][/caption]

Today is yet another tedious day at the helm.  From Supelo Sound, the ICW follows the Front River and Old Teakettle Creek into Doboy Sound.  South of Doboy Sound, we transit the North River and Little Mud River at low tide.  In several areas, we reduce boat speed to a crawl with a mere 12 inches of water under the keel.  When the probability of grounding is high, it is preferable to do so at low speed.   Good fortune is with us today as we remain afloat for the entire journey.

By early afternoon, the tide is on the rise and our anxiety is eased.  South of Altamaha Sound, there is an endless series of range markers to be negotiated on the Buttermilk Sound and the Mackay River.  By 2 PM, Cutter Loose passes under the highway bridge that leads from the town of Brunswick to St. Simons Island. 

Clouds are thickening as we leave the Brunswick ship's channel astern and enter Jekyll Creek.  At 4 PM, we are anchored in Umbrella Creek within sight of the southern tip of Jeckyll Island. 

Winds have increased to 15 knots from the south.  Sirius marine weather shows successive bands of thunderstorms to the west ahead of an approaching cold front.  Cutter Loose is riding to current while the southerly winds are pushing gurgling wavelets broadside against her hull.  There is no shortage of wind and water noises aboard Cutter Loose tonight.  But there is no motion inasmuch as the creek is lined with marsh grass which prevents the buildup of waves.  We will wait to see what nature has in store for us in terms of the thunderstorms bearing down on us from the west.

[caption id="attachment_2021" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Storm clouds gathering on the western horizon"][/caption]

Monday, November 21st

[caption id="attachment_2017" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Long-time sailing friends Debbie and Dennis"][/caption]

Our departure from Delegal Creek must be timed at high tide.  This gives us a few hours in the morning to visit with friends Dennis and Debbie.  While we are visiting, the birds in the neighborhood have organized a poopfest aboard Cutter Loose.  When we return, the boat is covered in bird droppings.  We spend several hours restoring the dignity of Cutter Loose.

By noon, the tide has risen sufficiently to float Cutter Loose through the shallow entrance channel of Delegal Creek.  Our objective is to secure a late afternoon anchorage along the ICW.  Our journey today takes us 23 miles through Hell Gate, the Bear River and St. Catherines Sound to tiny Cattle Pen Creek.  The anchor is down in the Creek at the precise moment that the sun disappears below the horizon.

[caption id="attachment_2019" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Barge on ICW at sundown"][/caption]

Sunday, November 20th

The anchor is up at 7:20 AM in the New River near Daufuskie Island, SC on this, the 30th day of our winter voyage.  Although today's leg is only 32 miles, it is filled with endless twists, turns, switchbacks and navigational challenges. 

Within a few miles of our anchorage, we pass from South Carolina into Georgia.  The Georgia coastline is only one hundred miles in length as the crow flies.  But the meandering ICW adds another 40 miles to the journey.

The ICW is a network of small rivers and creeks connected by manmade canals called cuts.  The New River is connected to the Wright River by way of Walls Cut.  The Wright River is connected to the Savannah River by way of Fields Cut.  Sections of the smaller rivers and creeks must be dredged in order for the ICW to remain navigable.  But the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers has insufficient funding for dredging.  During periods of low tide in the cuts and dredged areas, there is a sometimes as little as a foot of water under the keel of Cutter Loose.  These circumstances require constant vigilence.  Moving the boat too far left or right of the centerline of the ICW channel could easily result in grounding. 

[caption id="attachment_2016" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="ICW sailboat dwarfed by container ship on the Savannah River"][/caption]

The ICW crosses the Savannah River on the diagonal and enters a cut on the opposite shore.  Just as we are about to enter the River, the sailboat immediately ahead of Cutter Loose runs hard aground.  This is enough of a distraction to make us temporarily unaware of a huge container ship riding the flood tide upriver at a considerable clip.  The current in the River catches the bow of Cutter Loose and pushes her upstream and away from the cut on the opposite shore.  Soon we are back in control and looking for space outside of the ship's channel where we can hold our position while the container ship races by.  Other vessels plying the waterway are less fortunate and draw the ire of the Savannah Pilot steering the container ship.  Thusfar, it has been a stressful morning.

We follow the meandering Wilmington River past Thunderbolt, a critical mass of marinas and repair yards where the largest yachts in Savannah are docked.  Because it is Sunday, the Skidaway Narrows Bridge opens on demand.  Soon Cutter Loose is being swept along with the current in the Vernon River tracking our entrance into Delegal Creek, our destination for the day.

As we are about to enter the Creek, Cutter Loose is on a reciprocal course with another  Island Packet sailboat.  She has a familiar name and a Pittsburgh hailport.  Friends Dennis and Debbie docked their boat at Spring Cove Marina in Rock Hall, MD in the 1990s.  They now live in Savannah.  It has been a decade since our paths have crossed.  One of the most rewarding aspects of cruising involves re-encountering sailing friends.

[caption id="attachment_2015" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Thank you, Dick and Mary for welcoming us into your home"][/caption]

Later in the afternoon, we meet friends Dick and Mary who also live in Savannah.  After a quick tour of Cutter Loose, they graciously provide a tour of their home and their neighborhood, followed by dinner at their country club.  We are especially appreciative of their willingness to serve as our mail drop and to grant us laundry priveleges in their lovely home.

Saturday, November 19th

The anchor is up in Parrot Creek just before sunrise.  By 9:30 AM, Cutter Loose passes through the Ladies Island swing bridge and past the small village of Beaufort, SC.  Under normal circumstances, we would pause to revisit this historic town.  But it is early in the day, and with plenty of sunshine we decide to move further south.  

[caption id="attachment_1984" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Harbourtown Light, Hilton Head Island"][/caption]

Following the Beaufort River ship channel, we pass the Marine Corps boot camp facility on Parris Island.   At Port Royal Sound, the ship channel proceeds south through the inlet and into the Atlantic Ocean.  The ICW crosses the Sound and enters Skull Creek and eventually Calibogue Sound, inland waterways that form the western shore of Hilton Head Island.  We pass familiar sights, including the Harbourtown lighthouse, viewing them for the first time from the water.  Having enjoyed several visits here, the gravitational pull of Hilton Head is strong.  We resist the temptation and continue south to Daufuskie Island for a remote overnight anchorage on the New River.  

[caption id="attachment_1985" align="alignright" width="150" caption="Ferry dock at Daufuskie Island, SC"][/caption]

There is a dramatic change in scenery today.  For the past few weeks, we have been surrounded by lowcountry marshes alongside narrow waterways when not in urban areas.  The tree-lined shores and broader bodies of water with white beaches are a welcome departure from marsh grass.   The inland waters at Hilton Head are stunning...little wonder that 2.5 million people visit the island each year.

Friday, November 18th

[caption id="attachment_1982" align="alignleft" width="150" caption="Carnival Fantasy docking in Charleston"][/caption]

Given the normal 3 knots of current in the Cooper River, it is no small challenge to maneuver Cutter Loose out of her slip in this marina.  With this thought in mind, we time our departure to coincide with slack tide at 6:50 AM, knowing full well that this is a hurry up and wait decision.  Today's first opening of the Wappoo Creek bridge on the ICW will occur at 9 AM, and it is located a scant 4 miles south of our marina.   Under clear skies, we motor slowly through Charleston Harbor observing the early morning activity, including the dockage of a Carnival cruise ship.

Our objective for today is to reach Beaufort, SC, some 67 miles to the south.  But by the time we clear the Wappoo Bridge, it is already 9:30 AM.  With only 10 hours of daylight, reaching Beaufort before sunset is not in the cards. 

South of the bridge, our course takes us through narrow Elliott Cut where the current is running with a vengeance, this time pushing us into the Stono River.  From here, the ICW follows the Dawho River and the South Edisto River which collectively form the western boundary of Edisto Island.  As we navigate a dogleg in the Dawho River, thick plumes of smoke appear to be rising from the McKinley Washington Bridge, causing us to think twice about passing under the bridge.  Soon it becomes apparent that smoke is billowing from a forest on the horizon and that our safety is not in danger.

[caption id="attachment_1983" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose emerges from the marshes of Rock Creek"][/caption]

After transiting the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff, we enter Parrot Creek off the Coosaw River where Cutter Loose will hang on the hook for the night.  The sun dips below the horizon just moments after the anchor is set.  Today's journey has been a sunup to sundown experience, with only 53 nautical miles to our credit.  Despite the initial inefficiencies of tide and bridge openings, it has been another gorgeous, stress-free day on the water.

Thursday, November 17th - lay day in Charleston

Despite the warning, there was no tornado activity overnight.  But there was abundant thunder, lightning and rain associated with the cold front that passed through Charleston in the wee small hours of the morning.  Today, the wind is cranking a good 20 knots out of the north.  The wind and cloud cover has created a chill in the air.  Spending yet another day in Charleston is a decision that comes easy.

The morning begins at Caviar and Bananas, followed by a hike to the Visitor Center.  Radeen invests in a tourbook and treats us to a self-guided, narrated stroll through the nooks and crannies of the historic district.  Owning one of these charming homes would require limitless resources and energy.  There is no shortage of demand for painters, woodworkers and restoration specialists in Charleston.  We are grateful to those who live here and care for these dwellings, as they have made our visit memorable.

We conclude the day with appetizers aboard Island Spirit and dinner ashore at a Mediterranean restaurant.  After dark, the chill in the air becomes downright cold.  We scurry back to the marina in anticipation of an early start in the morning.

Wednesday, November 16th - another lay day in Charleston

Once settled in, it is difficult to leave Charleston.  Our neighbors here at the Maritime Center have chosen Charleston as their winter destination.  The thought has a certain appeal, what with the nearby commercial and cultural amenities.  But as the saying goes, Charleston is just too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.  Eventually, we will head south.  Just not today.

We are becoming morning regulars at Caviar and Bananas, a local gourmet market and coffee shop on George Street.  Today, we meet the owners who migrated here from Manhatten.  Once again, the place is filled with college students sipping cappucinos and staring into their electronic devices.

Our focus today is on preparing Cutter Loose to sail tomorrow, including laundry, securing provisions at the Harris Teeter foodstore and cleaning the topsides and cabin.  Tonight we host happy hour aboard Cutter Loose and get to know fellow Pennsylvanians Lamar and Sherry aboard Winterset, an Island Packet 420.

It has been a cloudy day in Charleston with winds increasing out of the southwest. Unsettled weather is moving into Charleston overnight as a cold front approaches from the northwest.  A tornado watch box has been on the radar screen since late afternoon.  At 10 PM, the first bands of rain arrive.  We will watch this system carefully before deciding to leave in the morning.  Weather could very well be the perfect excuse to extend our stay in Charleston another day.

Tuesday, November 15th - lay day in Charleston

[caption id="attachment_1934" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Art appreciation in Folly Beach"][/caption]

Early morning fog gives way to sunny skies in Charleston today.  It is an excellent day for a bicycle ride.  Our first stop is for coffee and bagels at Caviar and Bananas on George Street near the College of Charleston campus where we compete with students for space to lock our bikes.  Then we are off on a 34 mile, perfectly flat (except for bridges) out and back ride to Folly Beach, where we discover an interesting mural on the facade of Planet Hollywood.  

[caption id="attachment_1935" align="alignright" width="270" caption="Exploring the nooks and crannies of Charleston"][/caption]

Back in Charleston, we cycle the waterfront park and less traveled streets, then tackle boat chores, including carting our empty LP gas tank eleven blocks to the local U Haul store and changing the engine oil and filter.  With these tasks behind us, we enjoy shrimp cocktail aboard buddy boat Island Spirit, followed by another enjoyable dinner in town.

Monday, November 14th - lay day in Charleston

[caption id="attachment_1921" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The Cooper River is a deepwater port"][/caption]

Before daybreak, we are awakened to the sound of bow thrusters and stern thrusters as several of the mega yachts at the City Marina mega dock maneuver into the Ashley River to resume their journey south along the waterway.  At mid-morning slack tide, we weigh anchor in the Ashley River and move Cutter Loose to a slip at the Charleston Maritime Center on the Cooper River.  We are pleased with our new digs here in Charleston as it eliminates the need to contend with the current in the Ashley River.  Our slip is within a five minute walk of the Harris Teeter grocery store and a fresh vegetable market.

[caption id="attachment_1922" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Ships passing in Charleston Harbor"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_1923" align="alignright" width="224" caption="Steeler fans are everywhere!"][/caption]

After washing Cutter Loose, we stroll along King Street until the retail experience becomes too intense.  Charleston does not appear to be adversely impacted by the slow economy.  We retreat to quieter residential neighborhoods.  Tonight we enjoy a delectable dining experience at FIG, then resume our walk along King Street.  Visiting Charleston is truly one of the highlights of our cruise along the waterway.