Saturday, March 23rd to Monday, March 25th - Portsmouth, Dominica

The anchor is up in Saint Louis on the island of Marie Galante at 10: 30 AM.  Our destination today is the town of Portsmouth, Dominica, some 26 miles to the south.  Sailing conditions today are sublime, made possible in part by the wind angle between Marie Galante and Dominica.  Winds are in the 15 to 20 knot range out of the ENE…slightly abaft of the beam.  This is Cutter Loose’s sweet spot.  She powers through the wind-driven chop making 7 to 8 knots over ground.   Today is one of the best sails since we arrived in the Caribbean.

Approaching Portsmouth, the wind becomes swirly as we are greeted by Lawrence Roberts (aka Lawrence of Arabia) who brings his colorful skiff alongside Cutter Loose to offer us a mooring in the harbor.  We cheerfully accept the offer and Lawrence escorts us to our mooring.   Ironically, Lawrence now collaborates with another guide by the name of Uncle Sam.  Uncle Sam was our boat boy back in 1996 when we visited Portsmouth with Pittsburgh friends Chuck and Jeanne Berrington aboard IP 40 Relationship.  The boat boys are now middle-aged men, proudly carrying on the tradition.

Thus far on our journey, the notion of boat boys is a novelty.  Here in Dominica, it is customary to utilize the services of a guide.  Actually, it is more of a courtesy than an absolute necessity…a method of gaining insight into the local culture while supporting the  economy.  Lawrence and other legitimate guides here in Portsmouth have organized themselves into a type of cooperative called PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Security).  PAYS controls all of the moorings in the harbor and offers them for rent at a reasonable cost of $10 per night.  PAYS members take turns greeting new arrivals and providing security in the harbor at night.  For those boats that wish to anchor, the guides help them find a good spot outside of the mooring field.  A mooring or an anchorage is the first item on a menu that offers a full range of optional services, including guided boat tours of the Indian River, laundry service, water taxi service to the Customs office and a variety of inland taxi tours.

Lawrence whisks us off to Customs at full throttle in his runabout.  Since it is Saturday afternoon, the office is officially closed.  But Lawrence knows how to track down the Customs officers after hours.  We have obviously interrupted them from their leisure activities.  With the entrance formalities behind us, Lawrence takes our bag of dirty laundry and agrees to return it the next day, washed and dried. 

At 7 AM on Sunday morning, Lawrence arrives for our guided boat tour of the Indian River in Portsmouth.  With the engine off and Lawrence manning the oars, the only audible sounds in these early morning hours are the green herons squawking, an occasional fish surfacing for food and the lapping of water against the hull.  For two hours, we are guided through this watery tunnel with dense vegetation along the banks and overhead.  Lawrence points out every species of plant and animal down to the termite nests.  He explains that the Carib Indians once used this waterway as an expressway from their inland villages to the sea.  When the water becomes too shallow for navigation, we disembark for a brief tour of a rustic bar carved out of the jungle.  The bar is closed this morning, but refreshments will be served to river tour passengers that arrive later in the day.









As it turns out, our two hour tour of the Indian River occurs during the clearest weather of the day.  Off-and-on morning sprinkles turn into a steady afternoon shower.  We spend a relaxing afternoon aboard Cutter Loose, refreshed by relief from the heat and intense sunshine of the topics.  On Sunday evening, the social event is the weekly barbeque at the PAYS shelter on the beach.  This is yet another way for us to support the PAYS organization and to become acquainted with other cruisers.  After dinner, a DJ transforms the event into a dancing extravaganza.  It seems rather incongruous to be here in Dominica watching 60-something cruisers from around the world singing and gesticulating wildly to the sounds of YMCA by The Village People.

Portsmouth is another one-street town in a state of decline.  It is lined with vegetable stands, bars, restaurants and businesses.  There is simply an insufficient number of employed residents to support a vibrant business district.  The bulk of employment is in the tourism sector of the economy.  Walking the street, we are approached by a variety of taxi drivers and tour guides, some of which appear to be unstable. 

The most recent form of investment in town is the new fisherman’s dock financed entirely by the Japanese government.  Presumably, this is a way for Japan to insure a steady supply of seafood from around the world to meet the demands of the Japanese people.  When we lock our dinghy to the fishing pier, we face the wrath of a fisheries employee who informs us that locking a dinghy is forbidden.  He informs us that dinghy theft is not a factor in Dominica as it is in other islands such as St. Martin.  This may be true, but we are taking no chances.  The rule amongst cruising sailors in the Caribbean is “lock it or lose it”.

The beauty of Dominica lies not in its towns, but in the interior of the island where steep mountains with lush vegetation and tropical rainforests abound.  On Monday, we share a rental car with buddy boat Dragon’s Toy for a self-guided tour of northern Dominica.  Traveling north and east from Portsmouth, the first stop is in the seaside village of Calabishie where we stop at a small bakery to sample their wares. 

Past the settlement of Marigot on the Atlantic side of the island, Pagua Bay comes into view thousands of feet below.  Beyond Marigot is the Carib Territory, where Carib Indians sell their woven baskets and other wares at roadside kiosks.  Turning inland, our drive takes us along the Pagua River through the Central Forest Reserve which offers outstanding views of the volcanic mountain tops and lush valleys below.  The return to Portsmouth from Saint Joseph is along the west coast highway.



After a long day traversing the highways and byways of Dominica, dinner tonight is at Tomato’s on the campus of U.S. based Ross University School of Medicine in Portsmouth.  This is a small slice of the Americana right here in Dominica.  ESPN is on the TV. The menu features predictable Italian-American favorites.  Faculty members and students are engaged in academic-speak over drinks on the patio.  For a few hours on the eve of our departure from Portsmouth, it feels as if we have never left the States.  Tomorrow, we will sail south to the town of Roseau, the capital city of Dominica.

Thursday, March 21st and Friday, March 22nd - Marie Galante

Marie Galante is a small, relatively flat island to the south of Guadeloupe and lying 15 miles due east of Iles des Saintes.  Just when it seemed that our easting for this voyage had been accomplished, Cutter Loose is motoring east into the wind and waves once again.  Marie Galante is off the beaten path of cruisers.  There is nothing even remotely touristy about this island.  As the British would say, it is unspoiled.  Yet there are a dozen or more cruising sailboats anchored in the harbor at St. Louis when we arrive.  Ferry service connects Marie Galante to the mainland of Guadeloupe.

Marie Galante was discovered by Chris Columbus on his second voyage in 1493.  He named the island in honor of his Caravel, one of the smaller, lighter, faster and more maneuverable vessels designed and built by the Portuguese for long distance exploration.  Today, 12,000 people inhabit Marie Galante.  Politically, it is part of Guadeloupe.

St. Louis is the most protected harbor on the island for visiting boats.  All of the essentials are covered in St. Louis inasmuch as a patisserie/boulangerie is conveniently located at the end of the ferry dock. There are a handful of restaurants on the beach.  No English is spoken here.  In fact, the local residents seem downright curious about suntanned Caucasians strolling about town in floppy hats. 

In a chance encounter, we strike up a conversation with a group of bilingual French cruisers whom we meet at the dinghy dock. Apparently, U.S. flagged vessels are a rarity at Marie Galante and they are curious about why we are here.  They are a group of brothers with spouses here on a charter boat to celebrate the 70^th birthday of a sibling.  Some live in Guadeloupe, some are from Martinique while others reside in the Bordeaux area of France.  One is a dentist, another is a medical doctor and another is an agronomist.  As it turns out, their mother was Creole and a teacher of English.  They enjoy visiting Marie Galante because of the absence of tourism and because of the friendliness of local residents.  

Our first visual impression of St. Louis, however, is less than positive.  The streets, sidewalks and buildings in the port area are in disrepair.  We decide to withhold final judgment until we have the opportunity to explore other parts of the island.  One of our reasons to sail to Marie Galante is to bicycle its rural network of roads.  Thus far, narrow roads with heavy traffic have been the rule rather than the exception in the Caribbean.  The French, however, put money into their roads, which are in good condition. 

[caption id="attachment_4699" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Non-descript entrance to Customs office in Grand Bourg"][/caption]

On Friday morning, the Bike Fridays are assembled bright and early for a ride to Grand Bourg, the largest settlement on the island.  The Customs office in Grand Bourg closes for the weekend at noon on Friday. We are told by others to arrive before 11:30 AM if we intend to clear customs out of Guadeloupe before Monday.  Since it is only five miles from St. Louis to Grand Bourg, the logistics should not be a problem.  En route, a broken spoke on my rear wheel impedes our progress.  Arriving in Grand Bourg at 11 AM, the challenge now is to find the Customs office post haste.  Fortunately, an English-speaking woman of Dominican birth comes to our aid, personally accompanying us to the Customs office. It is hidden on the second floor of a non-descript building on a back alley.  There is no sign or any official-looking indication of a Customs office.  She rings the buzzer and speaks in French to the Customs officers.  The door lock clicks open.  We ascend the stairs, entering the office at precisely 11:30 AM.  Ten minutes later, we exit the office with clearance papers in hand.  Without the help of this English-speaking Good Samaritan, we would still be searching for the Customs office in Grand Bourg.



Similar to St. Louis but on a larger scale, Grand Bourg also has its share of derelict buildings.  Several examples of Creole architecture remain, but most have fallen into disrepair.  After a sandwich at the patisserie and a stroll around town, we begin our return to St. Louis.  Much of the land here is used for the cultivation and processing of sugar cane, so traffic is light.  The French also seem to respect cyclists.  They honk politely, wave and give us a thumbs up when they pass by.

Along the way, we pause for a visit to Habitation Murat.  This is the site of a sugar cane plantation, now in ruins.  With its 207 slaves, it was considered in 1839 to be the largest sugar cane plantation in Guadeloupe. The windmill (minus the sails) is the dominant architectural element of the site.  A few miles further is the Plage de Trois Ilets, a magnificent beach.  Today it is deserted.



On Saturday, we pay an early morning visit to the patisserie before our departure for Dominica.  Several of the French brothers that we met the day before on the dinghy dock are stocking up on pain and baguettes for their sail to Guadeloupe.  They are as enthusiastic as ever, greeting us with smiles and firm handshakes.  We exchange boat cards and promise to stay in touch.  We find ourselves beginning to understand and perhaps even share in their perspective on Marie Galante.  It is certainly not a glamorous place that would fulfill the expectations of those seeking a glitzy Caribbean resort vacation.  It is a working class island with towns that reflect working class values and struggles.  As such, our visit to Marie Galante has provided an insight into every day life on an authentic, tourist-free Caribbean island...the essence of travel.

Monday, March 18th to Wednesday, March 20th - Iles des Saintes

The anchor is up at 6:30 AM on Monday in Deshaies.  Our destination today is the archipelago of Iles des Saintes, a journey of thirty miles.  Our course takes us south along the west coast of the butterfly island to the city of Basse Terre, then ESE to “the Saints”. 

In light easterlies, the first 18 miles of today’s journey takes place in the lee of Guadeloupe’s mainland.  We bypass Pigeon Island, a dive and snorkel destination that is part of the Jacques Cousteau National Park.  Pigeon Island is definitely on the to do list for a future visit to Guadeloupe.  Approaching Basse Terre, the wind increases slightly and shifts suddenly to the west, which is a highly unusual occurrence here in the Caribbean.  Little did we know at the time that this phenomenon portends changing wind and sea conditions as we sail out from the lee of Guadeloupe. 

The so-called venturi effect occurs when easterly trade winds collide with the eastern shore of a mountainous island and become diverted north and south along its coast.  The wind intensifies as it rushes towards the openings between the islands, then wraps around the northern and southern tips of the island to fill the void in pressure.  Clearing the southern tip of Guadeloupe, the easterlies build instantly to 25 knots in the Saintes Channel (Canal de Saintes).  Here, the wind from the east is blowing against 1.5 knots of opposing current flowing from west to east.  Wind against current...always a deterrant. The result is six foot steep-sided waves with foamy crests.  Cutter Loose is behaving like a bucking bronco in this melee. Now on course to Les Saintes, the wind is directly on the bow.  Ultimately, the final few miles of our journey is a motorsail.  So much for the wishful thought of minimal reliance on the engine here in the Leeward Islands! 

These very waters of the Canal des Saintes was the site of a decisive naval battle in April, 1782.  This battle involved 47 French and Spanish ships of the line versus 36 English ships of the line under the command of Admiral Sir George Rodney.  The battle lasted four days and resulted in an English victory.  During this battle, the British were credited with perfecting a technique known as “breaking the line” of battle.  As the French line passed down the British line, a shift in wind direction permitted several British ships to break through the line of French warships.  The French were caught by surprise.  Several of their most powerful ships suffered severe damage and others retreated in chaos.  A general chase followed, the result of which was that the French commander, Comte de Grasse, was forced to surrender.  This defeat caused the French and Spanish to abandon their plan to capture the British island of Jamaica.  Witnessing the wind and waves this morning, it is easy to understand how a superior knowledge of prevailing wind and current in the Canal des Saintes would create an advantage in naval warfare.  Today, we are sailing through history aboard Cutter Loose.

At noon, Cutter Loose enters the inner harbor at Bourg des Saintes.  Fortunately, there are several  moorings still available.  Moorings are at a premium here since Iles des Saintes is a popular stop on the Leeward Islands cruising circuit, roughly midway between Deshaies and Portsmouth, Dominica.  From this front row seat, we observe all of the comings and goings in the harbor.



On final approach, there are swimmers, snorkelers and kayakers hovering around our targeted mooring ball.  It seems rather strange that these folks are not moving out of our path as we approach the mooring. But by now, we have grown accustomed to odd behavior.  After settling in, it becomes apparent that people are attracted to our little corner of the mooring field in order to swim with the local family of dolphins.  Tour boats discharge snorkelers while rapping on the hull to attract the attention of the dolphins.  As if on cue, the dolphins make regular appearances alongside Cutter Loose to please the appreciative crowd.

Ashore, Bourg des Saintes is a quaint, compact village with tourist shops, motor scooter rental shops and restaurants.  French tourists arrive en masse on the morning ferries from Pointe-a-Pitre and Basse Terre, returning to the mainland of Guadeloupe on the afternoon ferry.  From noon until 3 PM, the hustle and bustle of the street dissipates as shops close and tourists relax over a leisurely lunch in the local cafés. 



[caption id="attachment_4671" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Madame with baguette"][/caption]

Australians Richard and his lady friend Jules from Australia are moored nearby Cutter Loose.  Together with Dragon’s Toy, they have become companions for morning visits to the patisserie and evening conversations in the cockpit.  The name of their vessel is Ooroo, which is an Australian expression for “see you later”.  One of the most delightful aspects of cruising is the opportunity to make new friends from far-away places.  Like us, they are headed down-island, so our paths are sure to cross again soon.  Many of our Caribbean 1500 companions are now scattered throughout the islands, while others have already returned to the States.  We are attempting to remain in contact with Scott and Jennifer aboard Caribbean 1500 boat Pendragon with the hope of intersecting with them in Martinique.

Despite the heavy emphasis on tourism, les Saintes is an interesting place to be. The obligatory hike to Fort Napoleon provides a commanding view of the harbor.  Several scale models within the Fort depict the maneuvering of the British and French ships during the Battle of les Saintes. Nearby, there are several beaches worth exploring, including Grand Anse which is directly exposed to the fury of the easterly trade winds.  Local patisseries, boulangeries and grocery stores help to provision the galley with cheese, baguettes and other essentials.  With the exception of a few shopkeepers, no English is spoken here.  With a smile, a few words of French and a handful of Euros in one’s pocket, it is entirely possible to survive quite nicely in the French West Indies.

[caption id="attachment_4662" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Bargains galore at Iles des Saintes"][/caption]

Thursday’s forecast calls for light winds from the east.  We will take this opportunity to call at the remote French island of Marie Galante.

Friday, March 15th to Sunday, March 17th - The Butterfly Island

The !#%^* roosters begin crowing every day at 4:30 AM in English Harbor.  There is never a need for an alarm clock here in Antigua.  Before sunrise, the anchor is up and Cutter Loose is underway.  Our destination today is the village of Deshaies, located on the northwest coast of the French island of Guadeloupe. 

Antigua is an important milestone inasmuch as it signals the completion of our easting in this journey.  Guadeloupe and the Windward Islands lie due south of Antigua.  Sailing south eliminates the need to motor into the prevailing easterlies.  With some exceptions, it will be a reach for the next 300 miles to Grenada.  In fact, sailing with the trade winds on the beam is so addictive that many cruising sailors remain in the Eastern Caribbean for successive seasons.  This is not to say that the sailing conditions will always be benign.  But with any amount of luck, we will not need to rely heavily on the engine during the final seven weeks of this winter cruise.



[caption id="attachment_4635" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Montserrat"][/caption]

Take today, for example.  It is a Chamber of Commerce sailing day.  Our new masthead wind indicator informs us that winds today are in the 10 to 15 knot range, squarely on the beam.  Seas are a benign 3 to 4 feet.  Visibility is superb.  In fact, a faint outline of Guadeloupe is already visible 40 miles away on the southern horizon.  Under full sail, Cutter Loose heels politely and romps along comfortably at 6 knots over ground.  She is surrounded this morning by flocks of flying fish, fins flapping furiously to remain airborne from one wave crest to another.  Twenty miles to the west of our course is the smoking island of Montserrat, its active volcano still spewing steam and ash into the air.

[caption id="attachment_4646" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The harbor at Deshaies, Guadeloupe"][/caption]

There is something magical about sailing to a new country.  The excitement of discovery begins anew each time the yellow Q flag is hoisted on the spreader.  As humans, we are at our best when we strive to resolve our curiosity.  Our minds become fully engaged, navigating our way into unfamiliar harbors and absorbing the local culture and geography.  Arriving in new places is one of the most pleasurable aspects of cruising under sail.

The harbor at Deshaies (pronounced DAY-yey) is full of anchored cruising boats upon our arrival at 3 PM. This is a popular customs port and stepping stone between Antigua and Dominica.  Since the shallower area of the harbor closer to shore is already cluttered with local boats and transient cruisers, Cutter Loose is relegated to a spot in the outer reaches of the harbor where the water depth is forty feet.  A depth of forty feet requires us to utilize a minimum of 200 feet of anchor chain.  A gusty 15 knot late afternoon wind is already spilling down into the harbor from the surrounding mountains, shifting from northeast to southeast every few minutes.  Under these conditions, it is especially important to maintain a comfortable distance from other boats in the harbor.

Deshaies is a small village with one and two story buildings punctuated by colorful red roofs and a church bell tower that tolls on the hour.  There is one narrow street that runs parallel with the waterfront where most of the businesses are clustered.  While there are a few chambres and t shirt shops on Main Street, the town is not particularly oriented to tourism.  Cruising sailors ply the streets in search of necessities.  A few land-based tourists arrive by car to visit the beach just north of town, stopping in the village for a stroll, a meal or a beverage. 

Clearing customs is accomplished at Le Pelican, an Internet café and art gallery in a tiny storefront that is difficult to find.  The owner is helpful…one of the few people in Deshaies that speaks Anglais.  The French clearance process is quite easy and efficient.  One clears in and clears out by completing and printing an online form.  Customs and Immigration have subcontracted this service to local retailers that earn a small fee for each completed clearance transaction.  Typically, the merchant sets up a computer and printer in a remote corner of the store for customs clearance purposes.  The shopkeeper reviews the printed clearance form, affixes the requisite stamp of approval and collects a $4 EU fee for the service. 

Friends Cary and Tom from Dragon’s Toy join us for dinner ashore tonight at a pizza restaurant with a deck overlooking the harbor.  In typical French style, the pizza and salad are excellent.  After a long day on the water and the excitement of being in a new place, we prolong this experience, soaking in the beauty and foreignness of this setting well into the evening.

Following the requisite Saturday morning croissants and espresso at the patisserie, a mile-long uphill hike south of town takes us to Jardin Botanique de Deshaies.  Here, there are thousands of species of tropical plants in a highly manicured setting, including a restaurant that overlooks a 50 foot waterfall.  A paved pedestrian path meanders through koi ponds, a bamboo forest and orchid displays. At the walk-in aviary,  macaw parrots, pink flamingoes and colorful blue, red and green parakeets compete for the attention of visitors. 









Deshaies is an excellent location from which to initiate a tour of the island.  Following 8 AM mass on Sunday morning (not a word of which we understood), it is off in our rental car to explore the island.    Guadeloupe consists of two islands in the shape of a butterfly.  The west wing (Basse Terre) is the volcanic mountainous area of the island while the east wing (Grand Terre) is flatter and dominated by agriculture.

The outstanding beauty of Guadeloupe lies in its pristine mountainous interior.  Following the Route de la Traversee, our tour takes us up into the lush mountains and through the Parc National de la Guadeloupe.  Today there is a bicycle road race, complete with team support vehicles.  Incredible fitness is required on the part of the riders to climb these steep, twisty mountain roads.  At the pass, we pause at an overlook area to watch the riders regroup before beginning their downhill descent to the south coast town of Pointe-a-Pitre. 

Pointe-a-Pitre is Guadeloupe’s largest city.  It is quite shocking to be driving along a network of expressways on a Caribbean island.  The quality of the roads here is outstanding.  Guadeloupe is home to 330,000 residents.  The suburban areas appear to be quite prosperous, but the inner city is shabby and run-down.  There is a commercial harbor here, but visiting by car on a Sunday morning convinces us that there is no real reason for Cutter Loose to call at Point-a-Pitre.

From here, it is on to the city of Basse Terre, the capital of Guadeloupe, located on the southwestern coast of the west wing of the butterfly.  The dominant feature of the waterfront is a pedestrian promenade with fancy light fixtures, presumably financed by the French government.  But the inner city is not well maintained.  The buildings are shabby and the municipal marina has fallen into disrepair.  Fellow cruisers have told us that there is no place to land a dinghy in the marina.  Few tourists visit here.  Like Pointe-a-Pitre, we will avoid Basse Terre on our way south.

From the city of Basse Terre, it is a short drive north to La Soufriere, an active volcano that erupted most recently in 1976.  At 4,813 feet, it is the highest point in Gradeloupe.  A narrow roadway leads to a parking lot at the trailhead.  On a clear Sunday afternoon, the trail is a popular destination for families and couples.  Everyone descending the trail offers a friendly bon jour and a merci as we step aside and allow space to pass.  It is a 1.5 hour hike along a stone trail leading from the parking lot to an upper staging area which offers a panoramic view of the island’s southwest coast.  From here it is another 1.5 hours to the summit. 



Thirty minutes into our ascent to the rim, the clouds move in and stronger downdrafts of wind begin to cool the air with moisture.  Now mid-afternoon, we reluctantly abandon the ascent and return to the trailhead.  Perhaps on another visit, we will attempt this climb with an early morning start.



The 20 mile return to Deshaies takes us north along the west coast through small towns and villages.  The road is narrow and twisty but in good condition.  The sun is setting as we enter Deshaies.  It has been a long day, packed with new insights and a better appreciation for the island of Guadeloupe.  Tired but fulfilled, sleep will come easily tonight.  Tomorrow, we set sail for Ile des Saintes.

Tuesday, March 5th to Thursday, March 14th - Antigua

With renewed energy after a few hours of shuteye, we are off in the dinghy to clear Antiguan Customs and to visit the courteous folks at the Port Authority.  The Port Authority exacts a small daily fee for the privilege of anchoring in the harbor.  Once the clearance formalities have been completed, we deliver our dirty clothes to the ladies at the laundry and set out to become familiar with our new surroundings.

[caption id="attachment_4610" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Admiral's Inn at Nelson's Dockyard"][/caption]

Antigua and Barbuda were originally settled by the English in 1632.  The dominant landside feature in English Harbor is Nelson’s Dockyard, a cultural heritage site and a National Park.  Nelson, of course, refers to the man himself, Admiral Lord Nelson, victor of the battle of Trafalger.

During the 18^th century, Antigua served as the headquarters of the British Royal Navy Caribbean fleet.  English Harbor was selected for the establishment of a naval base because of the protection it affords from hurricanes.  Being located on the south coast of Antigua, the base in English Harbor enabled the Brits to monitor activities on the French island of Guadeloupe, some forty miles to the south.  Construction of the naval dockyard began in the 1740s. 

Nelson lived here from 1784 to 1787 when he served as Commander-in-Chief of operations in the Leeward Islands.  Nelson’s Dockyard is now a marina and an entertainment district.  Today, a dozen or more mega yachts are docked stern-to the quay.  The very buildings that once housed ship repair facilities now function as hotels, restaurants and shops.  Each morning, the Dockyard bustles with activity as tourists arrive by bus and taxi from the cruise boat terminal in St. Johns.  By mid-afternoon, the cruise boat crowd disappears, the gift shops close their doors for the day and the Dockyard reverts to a quaint, quiet historic village with boaters and hotel guests seated in the pubs and restaurants. 

From English Harbor, it is a short walk to the neighboring harbor of Falmouth.  Although the harbors are not connected by water, the two communities function as a single destination.  Falmouth is the larger of the two harbors.  It is less touristy but also less attractive than English Harbor.  The business community in Falmouth consists of the Antigua Yacht Club, marinas, bars, restaurants, a small grocery and a variety of marine services.  Hidden behind a sports bar are tennis courts (astro turf with sand) that are available to the public for an hourly fee.  Carole on Dragon’s Toy is interested in hitting a few balls for exercise.  After an hour practicing forehands in the hot afternoon tropical sun, we retire to the terrace at the Admiral’s Inn in English Harbor for an après tennis libation. 

Cutter Loose is anchored in English Harbor in order to seek professional help with a nagging electronics issue. Our Raymarine wind speed and wind direction instrument continues to be plagued by gremlins.  We attempted to sort this problem out during our stay in St. Martin, but the local Raymarine dealer (Gui at Atlantis Marine) was non-responsive.  Since Antigua is an excellent location for yacht services, Wednesday is devoted to enlisting help from The Signal Locker, the local Raymarine dealer.  A few short months ago, the wind instrument was rebuilt by the folks at Raymarine in New Hampshire and then re-installed on Cutter Loose.  When this did not correct the problem, the masthead wind vane unit was replaced with a brand new unit in January. The system performed admirably for a few weeks, then worked only intermittently.  Now, the instrument does not function at all.   Deductive reasoning suggests that the cable connecting the masthead unit to the instrument is at fault.  After an on-board diagnosis by Cap and William at The Signal Locker, this theory is proven wrong.  As it turns out, the culprit is the recently replaced masthead wind vane unit which must now be replaced for the second time in as many months.   Apparently, our wind vane failure is not unique.  According to Cap and William, these units are failing at an alarming rate, which signals a serious quality control issue at Raymarine.  In any event, a new replacement unit must now be ordered from Raymarine in New Hampshire.  It will take another five days for the new unit to arrive and clear local customs, which provides an opportunity to set off on a clockwise circumnavigation of Antigua.

Due to the steady stream of cold fronts exiting the US east coast, the weather pattern here in Antigua has been quite dry and settled since our arrival.  With winds less than five knots, Cutter Loose is underway from English Harbor to Jolly Harbor on the west coast, a distance of 12 miles.  Our course takes us through Goat Head Channel which passes between the southwest coast and Middle Reef.  In light of the settled weather and slight swell, we forego a mooring in the protected inner harbor and opt instead to anchor just off the entrance channel to Jolly Harbor where there is a view of Morris Bay beach to the south and a slight breeze to ventilate the cabin.  In hindsight, the decision to anchor in the outer harbor was an error in judgment.  Overnight, the north swells increase to five feet, turning a gentle rocking motion into a significant side-to-side roll that interrupts our sleep.

Ashore, Jolly Harbor is a planned second home development complete with marina, golf course, a shopping plaza, restaurants, a hotel and a casino.  The casino closed its doors five years ago and most of the shops in the plaza are now vacant.  Homes and villas have been developed along dredged canals such that owners can dock their sailboats alongside a seawall in the back yard.  The local grocery store is filled with shoppers on Saturday morning.  Young people are receiving instruction at the community swimming pool and tennis courts.  Cruisers and local residents alike congregate at the Crow’s Nest for breakfast and access to the Internet.  Jolly Harbor appears to be in a state of economic decline, but it continues to provide many amenities for the cruising sailor.  





The next destination on our circumnavigation of Antigua is Long Island, located on the north coast of Antigua.  Our course takes us past Five Islands Harbor and St. John’s, the capital and cruise boat mecca of Antigua.  Just beyond St. John’s, a massive reef system lies a few miles offshore, paralleling the north coast of the island.  Inside the reef is Boon Channel which provides deep water access to the north coast.  Our overnight destination is Davis Bay on the south side of Long Island, home of celebrities and the exclusive Jumby Bay Resort.  In contrast to our overnight anchorage at Jolly Harbor, Davis Bay is quiet and peaceful, fulfilling our need for a restful night’s sleep.

[caption id="attachment_4597" align="alignleft" width="224" caption="dinghies on the beach at Green Island"][/caption]

On Sunday, we retrace our steps through Boon Channel, before steering north and east to sail on the ocean side of the reef.  Our destination today is Nonsuch Bay on the east coast of Antigua, a distance of thirty miles.  We welcome the return of the easterly trade winds which keep the sails full on the east coast. The entrance to Nonsuch Bay is a twisty, reef-strewn channel to the south of Green Island.  Once inside, the Bay opens up into a tranquil body of turquoise water.  Moorings are provided north of Green Island just inside the reef.  A short distance from our mooring, waves are breaking violently on the reef, yet the anchorage remains breezy and calm.  This is a remote and remarkable place.  The only thing separating us from two thousand miles of open ocean to the east is the coral reef located within a stone’s throw from our mooring. 



We spend several relaxing days in Nonsuch Bay, swimming, walking the beaches, working on boat chores and watching the sunsets.  During happy hour aboard Cutter Loose, we are joined by Charlie and Jenny from Tulsa, OK aka s/v Lady.  The robust easterly trade winds funnel through the ports and hatches of Cutter Loose.  Overnight, the ambient air temperature drops to 77 degrees, sending Pat scurrying for a blanket in the early hours of the morning.  On Tuesday, we travel a short distance within Nonsuch Bay to Brown’s Bay in order to visit Harmony Hall, a small resort with a restaurant, pool and an art gallery.  After lunch, a hike to the more upscale Nonsuch Resort helps to burn a few calories. 

[caption id="attachment_4611" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="English Harbor anchorage"][/caption]

On Wednesday morning, our 70 mile clockwise circumnavigation of Antigua is completed as we sail downwind from Nonsuch Bay to our point of beginning at English Harbor.  Having received word from The Signal Locker that our new masthead wind vane unit has arrived, We are anxiuous to arrange for installation.  Cap makes the trip to the top of the mast to plug in the new unit.  Voila!  The wind instrument instantly comes alive!  Hopefully, this new unit will have a useful life of more than just a few months.

This week marked a major change in mindset aboard Cutter Loose, triggered by the confirmation of airline reservations for our return home on May 8^th.  Those wonderful carefree days of wandering more or less aimlessly are now history.  We now have a haul out date confirmation at the marina in Grenada where Cutter Loose will spend hurricane season in the boat yard.  A calendar posted in the galley outlines target dates for making southerly progress from Antigua to Grenada.  After more than three months of cruising without a schedule, the very notion of a calendar feels confining, albeit necessary. 

[caption id="attachment_4603" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Catch of the day at the Admiral's Inn - English Harbor"][/caption]

Our ten day stay in Antigua has been most enjoyable.  The Antiguan people are warm and friendly.  In particular, English Harbor is a unique historic setting while Nonsuch Bay offers the type of remote getaway that soothes the soul.  Having absorbed some of the delights of Antigua, the time has come to move on.  Tomorrow we will sail to the French island of Guadeloupe.  We can almost taste the croissants!

[caption id="attachment_4604" align="aligncenter" width="640" caption="Island painting at Harmony Hall Gallery"][/caption]