Saturday, January 19th to Sunday, January 27th

Saturday’s itinerary involves a relaxing downwind sail from Francis Bay, St. John to Charlotte Amalie on the south coast of St. Thomas.  The purpose of today’s 14 mile journey is to position Cutter Loose for the arrival of Pittsburgh friends Glen and Nancy who will arrive for a visit on Monday.  Cutter Loose is at anchor in the harbor near the dinghy dock at the Havensight mega yacht marina.   

Each day at daybreak, a new wave of cruise ships discreetly enters the harbor.   There are no tug boats or honking of horns.  Still half asleep aboard Cutter Loose, it is possible to detect a hint of engine reverberation and an occasional rumble from the cruise ship’s bow thruster and stern thruster.  There is sufficient space at the dock to accommodate up to three cruise ships.  On a three cruise ship day, the activity in the harbor is at fever pitch.  Taxi drivers line up early to beckon the tourists for a lift to the beach or to the retail shops.  A procession of excursion boats arrive dockside to collect their passengers for a harbor cruise, a leisurely sail, a dive, a snorkeling expedition or a thrill ride on a go-fast jet boat.   By 4 PM, the tourists return to the dock as the ships begin their pre-departure announcements.  The late afternoon entertainment on board Cutter Loose involves relaxing in the cockpit, watching the pilots delicately maneuver the gigantic cruise boats ever so slowly away from West Indian dock and into the channel.  Many of the guests stand guard along the top deck and outside their staterooms, waving goodbye as they depart.  The cycle of arrivals and departures repeats each day during our stay in  Charlotte Amalie.

This port is an excellent venue for cruising sailors to meet and discharge guests while attending to laundry and shopping for provisions.  The dinghy dock is filled to overflowing with inflatables, runabouts from the larger charter boats and small fishing boats.  Nearby is Gourmet Gallery which offers the best fruits and vegetables that we have seen since arriving in the Virgin Islands.  Within a 5 minute walk from the dock is The Washboard, the local Laundromat.  Pat befriends the proprietor who insists on taking responsibility for expertly folding our freshly washed sheets to perfection.

Glen and Nancy join us late in the day on Monday for a visit to Cutter Loose.  They arrive laden with spare boat parts, a fresh supply of loose tea from Prestogeorge for Pat and a thorough update of news from Pittsburgh.  During their short stay, we manage a whirlwind tour of some of our favorite places in the USVI and BVI, including a swim and some beach time at Sandy Cay and a stop at Jost Van Dyke to clear BVI Customs.  Pat and Nancy take this opportunity to mix it up with Foxy, the legendary founder and owner of the beach bar at Great Harbor, site of the infamous New Year’s Eve celebration.   Then it is on to North Sound at Virgin Gorda to enjoy the delights of the Bitter End Yacht Club and Saba Rock.  From North Sound, it is a five hour downwind sail to Francis Bay, St. John, where the waning hours of the afternoon are spent swimming and enjoying the scenery at sunset before retiring to the salon for dinner followed by a spirited and competitive game of Rummy Kub.  On Friday, it is time to deliver our guests back to Charlotte Amalie in time for the departure of the silver bird to the U.S.  We have thoroughly enjoyed our time together with Glen and Nancy, and we wish them safe travel to Hawaii and Spain later this winter and spring.



 



 



Cutter Loose remains anchored in the harbor at Charlotte Amalie on Friday night in order to accomplish laundry and provisioning on Saturday morning.  Then it is back to Francis Bay for the remainder of the weekend.  From here, we are within proximity to Red Hook for yet another visit with Neal on Monday morning.  The recently rebuilt wind instrument has been working intermittently for the past few days.  It is best to rectify this problem before leaving USVI and BVI, and our remaining time here is short before pressing on to St. Martin.  In the meantime, we enjoy a relaxing weekend of boat chores, reading, swimming and walks on the beaches that surround Francis Bay.

Wednesday, January 16th to Friday, January 18th

In the protection of Francis Bay on Wednesday morning, the wind seems benign.  However, once through Funghi Passage and into the Narrows, the adverse current taken together with 20 knot easterlies on the bow makes for slow going towards our destination of Coral Bay.  Cutter Loose powers into wind-driven waves, kicking up a spray of seawater on deck.  The re-programmed chart plotters are back on the job after their prolonged Christmas break in New Hampshire.  It is a pleasure to have them on board and functioning properly once again.

The objective for the next few days is a clockwise circumnavigation of the island of St. John, USVI.  Still motoring east, we pass by the familiar territory of Leinster Bay and Waterlemon Cay on the northeast coast of St. John.  A turn to the southeast along the east coast of St. John places the wind on the port beam, easing the pitching motion and increasing boat speed.  Now under sail, we pass Privateer Point and Long Point before turning northwest into immense Coral Bay.  In the protected northeast corner of Coral Bay is Hansen Bay.  Cutter Loose is tucked in for the night at Hansen Bay just north of Pelican Rock. 

With a little coaxing, the anchor sets firmly.  The initial reluctance of our 88 pound Rocna anchor to set becomes understandable once we settle into this anchorage.  The bottom of the Bay is rocky.  The chain rode makes a scraping noise as it drags across the bottom of the Bay when wind shifts and tidal current cause Cutter Loose to swing around her anchor.  A noisy night is in store for us in Hansen Bay. 

This anchorage is not without amenities.  Hansen Bay is served by its very own floating beach bar… a colorful pontoon boat that features both indoor and outdoor seating.  One may swim to the floating bar or take the dinghy and dock alongside.   The entrepreneurial spirit of the proprietor is admirable, but his market research leaves a little to be desired.  This is an isolated area.  There are no competitors, but the universe of potential customers is miniscule.  There are just two other boats at anchor in Hansen Bay and only a handful of beachgoers.   Perhaps tomorrow will be a better day for business.

Thursday morning the anchor is up in Hansen Bay.  Cutter Loose is en route to nearby Coral Harbor, the historic center of plantation life in the 18^th century.   First impressions from the water are not positive.  There are a few dozen derelict, abandoned, aground and/or sunken boats in the harbor.  Another dozen or so derelict dinghies are tied to the dinghy dock.  Coral Harbor seems to be a place where owners irresponsibly drop an anchor and walk away from their boats for years or perhaps forever.  This blight seems incongruous with the pristine nature of St. John that we have come to know.  In fact, it is a unique phenomenon in our travels thus far in USVI and BVI.  Coral Harbor is one of the few places on the island that lies outside of the National Park boundary. 



Thankfully, there is more to the tiny village of Coral Harbor than the view from the harbor.  Skinny Legs (or “Skinny’s” as the locals refer to it) is a popular restaurant and bar near the dinghy dock which sports a Steelers logo on the porch railing.  Aqua Bistro serves up a sumptuous lunch in an attractive courtyard setting.  Several attractive shops complement the assortment of restaurants and beach bars. 



[caption id="attachment_4358" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Great Lameshure Bay"][/caption]

The wind has shifted to the southeast.  The exposed harbor has become rolly…not suitable for an overnight anchorage.  Cutter Loose is underway from Coral Bay on a beam reach through Sabbat Channel and past Ram Head en route to beautiful Great Lameshure Bay on the south coast.  There is just enough protected space in this harbor to buffer us from the southeast swell.  This placid body of water with its semi-circular beach serves as our home for the night.

[caption id="attachment_4360" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sunset at Francis Bay"][/caption]

On Friday, a downwind sail from Great Lameshure Bay takes us west along the southern coast of St. John to Cruz Bay.  Reluctantly, we douse the sails and start the engine for the final leg east to Francis Bay, thus completing the circumnavigation of St. John that began just two days ago.

Friday, January 11th to Tuesday, January 15th

As usual, Francis Bay rewards us with a restful night’s sleep.  The wind is finally taking a holiday and is now in the 15 to 20 knot range, which makes for a pleasant downwind sail to Caneel Bay.   Cutter Loose remains on a mooring while we dinghy into Cruz Bay to clear USVI Customs.  No visit to Cruz Bay would be complete without a stop at Dolphin Market and Deli Grotto for provisions.  Back on board, we are sailing downwind once again, this time en route to Charlotte Amalie on the southeast coast of St. Thomas.  Our course takes us west through Current Cut, a narrow opening between the treacherous-looking Current Rock to the north and Great St. James Island to the south.  True to its name, three knots of current push Cutter Loose efficiently through the Cut.

[caption id="attachment_4330" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="view from the top of the gondola"][/caption]

 

From Current Cut, it is another 6 miles west to the well-marked channel into the protected harbor of Charlotte Amalie, the capital city of the USVI and the primary port of call for the big cruise ships.  The City is named after Charlotte Amalie, queen to King Christian V of Denmark in the 17^th century.   Today, St. Thomas is home to about 19,000 people.

Dockwise Yacht Transport

At 5:15 PM, the anchor is down in Long Bay next to the mega yacht marina at Yacht Haven Grande.  This is a large harbor with dozens of pleasure boats at anchor and on moorings.  There is no shortage of activity in this harbor.  In addition to cruise ships, there are sea planes taking off and arriving from St. Croix, ferries to St. John and Tortola, container ships, fishing vessels and several charter fleets.  Charlotte Amalie is also a port for Dockwise Yacht Transport...ocean-going carriers with wide decks that move yachts to and from major ports throughout the globe, including the U.S. east coast, west coast and a variety of destinations in the Mediterranean. 



[caption id="attachment_4321" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Catch of the day in Frenchtown"][/caption]

Saturday is consumed by a marathon 5 hour hike along the waterfront from the extreme eastern side of the harbor, through the expansive retail district to Crown Bay Marina on the extreme western side of Charlotte Amalie.  Luckily, there is no cruise ship in the harbor today and the sidewalks are empty except for the persistent shopkeepers urging a visit to their store.  Returning to the dinghy dock at Yacht Haven Grande, we pause in the tiny neighborhood of Frenchtown for a late lunch.  Frenchtown has become an entertainment district unto itself with several restaurants and bars located adjacent to a marina and a commercial fishing pier. 



Sunday morning provides yet another opportunity to interface with our hosts here in St. Thomas.  The worship service at Memorial Moravian Church begins at 8:45 AM.  The early Moravians were followers of pre-Reformation martyr John Hus of Bohemia (now Czech Republic), who was burned at the stake in Switzerland in 1415, 102 years before Martin Luther began his Reformation work in Germany.  Moravian missionaries began arriving in the Caribbean in the 1700s to minister to slaves.  To this day, there is a substantial network of Moravian churches throughout the islands of the Caribbean.

This morning, this historic 1884 church is packed with families and older adults.  There is not an empty seat in the sanctuary.  The dynamic and energetic Pastor and all of the elders are female.  In attendance at this service is a newly-elected USVI Senator who also happens to be a member of this church.  Part of the sermon is an admonition for the Senator-elect to serve the people of USVI in a manner that reflects his Moravian upbringing.  After the sermon, all visitors are invited to stand and introduce themselves.  Being the only two Caucasians in a sanctuary of 300 some parishioners, there is no mistaking the fact that we are visitors.  Afterwards, there is an exchange of greetings which lasts roughly 20 minutes during which time every person in attendance shares handshakes with every other person in attendance.  We are received warmly by this congregation.  Even the Pastor swings by to welcome us.  The final hymn and benediction conclude at 11:15 AM.  Today’s service has been a most interesting and enjoyable experience.

[caption id="attachment_4328" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="sunset at Christmas Cove"][/caption]

After lunch and grocery shopping at Gourmet Gallery near Havensight Mall, the anchor is up in Long Bay.  Cutter Loose is bound for Christmas Cove on the lee shore of Great James Island where the National Park Service has placed a dozen moorings.  From here, it is only a few miles to Red Hook, which makes Christmas Cove a perfect staging area for our meeting with the local Raymarine dealer in the morning. 

By mid-morning on Monday, we are docked in our customary slip at American Yacht Harbor Marina in Red Hook.  This is our first marina experience since leaving here on December 18^{th .}  Cutter Loose is in dire need of a bath.  Since our stay here will be just 24 hours, the task list must be attacked with vigor.  First and foremost is the installation of the re-programmed chart plotters and the rebuilt wind instrument.  To our amazement and relief, each of the units functions perfectly with just a simple re-connection of cables.  A phone call to Evelyn, the local canvas expert, produces instant results.  The canvas bimini that provides shade in the cockpit has been inadvertently damaged by the boom.  Evelyn picks up the bimini at our dock and returns to her shop where she stitches a nifty leather patch over the damaged area.  She returns promptly at 5 PM with the finished product.  This level of service is unheard of in the industry.  In the meantime, our empty propane cylinder (used as fuel for the stove/oven) is refilled at the fishing shop.  Finally, after two haircuts, we reward ourselves with dinner at the local Chinese restaurant. 

On Tuesday morning, we re-install the canvas bimini, change the engine oil and filter and make the final touches to the above-decks and below-decks cleaning of Cutter Loose.   After a stop at the fuel dock to top off the tank, we are underway in Pillsbury Sound once again.  Our visit to Red Hook has been most productive.  It is time to return to the relaxing cruising lifestyle, and we have just the perfect place to spend the night…on a mooring in Francis Bay, of course!

Tuesday, January 8th to Thursday, January 11th

The gusty Christmas winds are still howling here in the BVI.  Tuesday, in particular, is an unusual weather day.  Each 30 minute period of sunshine and blue sky is followed by a 45 minute interval of dark clouds and a 15 minute rain squall. 

Our destination today is Little Jost Van Dyke, a small island on the east side of Jost Van Dyke.  From Cane Garden Bay on the island of Tortola, it is a mere 4 miles to Manchioneel Bay at Little Jost Van Dyke.  This journey can be completed in less than an hour.  The sky is now sunny and clear.  With any amount of luck, the anchor will be down in Manchioneel Bay before the arrival of the next squall. 

Twenty minutes into the journey, dark low clouds begin to appear to the east.  The sails are furled in anticipation of gusty winds on the leading edge of this squall.  To the southwest, Tortola has now disappeared in a white shroud of rainfall.  A blast of 32 knot winds creates nasty, confused waves and visibility is reduced in horizontal rain.  Cutter Loose surfs downwind where we hover in the lee of nearby Sandy Cay until the gusty conditions subside.  To our relief, the worst of the squall passes within ten minutes.   

Twenty minutes later, the sun is shining again with the anchor down in Manchioneel Bay.  To our immediate north is Little Jost Van Dyke.  The eastern perimeter of the Bay is formed by Green Cay and a massive shallow reef extending south to the islet of Sandy Spit.  Wind-driven waves are breaking on the reef.  Despite the unrelenting 25 knot winds, the water in the lee of the reef remains relatively calm.  The wind generator has certainly been earning its keep under these windy, gusty conditions.  The battery bank on board Cutter Loose has remained at or near full capacity ever since this period of enhanced wind began last Saturday.



On Wednesday morning, blue skies and sunshine return to our little corner of the world despite the persistent 25 knot winds.  It is a lovely day to land the dinghy on the beach at Sandy Spit.  This tiny island is a pristine tropical setting of white sand and palm trees bent permanently to the west by the trade winds.  During our walk on the windward side of the island, our legs begin to sting from the sandblast effect of the intense wind. 

In the interest of a restful night, the anchor is up in Manchioneel Bay.  Cutter Loose is relocated a short distance to a natural harbor that is more protected from the prevailing easterlies.  She is tucked into the lee of Little Jost Van Dyke near Diamond Cay.  The wind speed in the harbor is a more reasonable 10 to 15 knots. This is a popular destination for cruising sailors, due in no small part to Foxy’s Taboo, a restaurant on the Jost Van Dyke side of the harbor. 

Ashore, a hike to the Bubbly Pool provides afternoon exercise.  Here, the ocean waves pound onto giant rocks, eventually finding their way into a natural salt water pool.  Each time a wave lands on the rocks, the pool becomes filled with white foamy seawater.  The relaxing effect is that of a hot tub without the heat.    

Energized by the Bubbly Pool, the afternoon hike continues along a steep switchback road, ascending to an aerial view of the harbor.  The road is so steep in sections that it is difficult to believe than an average car would be capable of the ascent.  With the late afternoon sun at our backs, the view of eastern Tortola is superb.  Tonight, it is on to the funky open air dining room at Foxy’s Taboo, the only restaurant (in fact, the only building) in the harbor.  Our waiter, Mark, is friendly and genuine.  He explains that he moved to Jost Van Dyke from Tortola 13 years ago and has never regretted his decision to relocate.  We can certainly understand his motivation to live in such a relaxed, attractive setting.



Thursday’s weather is a repeat of Tuesday, with alternating squalls and periods of sunshine.  It is a relaxed morning aboard Cutter Loose, anticipating what the weather may have in store for today.  The day begins with good news from Neal.  Our repaired chart plotters have arrived in Red Hook.  An appointment is made for Monday to complete the installation.  It is time to return to the USVI.  The first step is a stop at Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke to clear BVI Customs.  Seated behind the counter in the Customs office is none other than Mark, our waiter from the previous evening at Foxy’s Taboo.  Last night, he was dressed island-casual and wearing a waist apron.  This afternoon, Mark is looking quite official in his Customs uniform.   He smiles broadly, encouraging us to return to Jost Van Dyke soon.  This is our friendliest reception yet at a BVI Customs office.  Note to log book.  Clear BVI Customs at Jost Van Dyke instead of West End whenever possible.



It is a short beam reach from Great Harbor to Francis Bay on St. John, but the wind is now blowing a sustained 28 knots and the water is a sea of lumpy whitecaps.  With deeply reefed sails, Cutter Loose makes short work of this task.  Once in the lee of Great Thatch Island, wind speed is halved entering the Narrows in Sir Francis Drake Channel.  Transiting the narrow deep water cut at Funghi Passage, Francis Bay opens into a panoramic portrait of a beautiful, familiar and protected harbor.  From our vantage point on an NPS mooring in Francis Bay, access to NPR radio and a digital signal from the St. Thomas public television station provide the evening’s news and entertainment.  This is one of our favorite places to be in the USVI.

Wednesday, January 2nd to Monday, January 7th

Cutter Loose is on familiar footing today, plowing east in Sir Francis Drake Channel with moderate easterlies on the bow.  The first order of business in the New Year involves a stop in Road Town.  Anchoring is difficult in this harbor due to its exposure to the easterly trade winds.  However, Road Town is the place in the BVIs to gain access to essential services. 

Our first destination is the local pharmacy to purchase additional medication for Pat’s rash, which is healing quite nicely.  The next stop is at Scotia Bank to withdraw cash.  A sign on the ATM machine states that there is a $3 fee to withdraw cash, which is customary.  Then it is on to Rite Way, the largest and most modern food store on Tortola.   Virtually any type of canned food or bottled beverage can be found here at 1.5 to 2 times the cost of comparable products in the U.S.  Since there are no locally grown fruits or vegetables, the produce leaves a lot to be desired in terms of freshness.  In the meat department, there is a good supply of beef, ox tail and pig’s feet.  But chicken parts and fish are available only in frozen packages.   Nearby, there is a tiny French charcuterie/patisserie which offers a nice selection of cheeses, lunchmeats and freshly baked bread.   Footnote: as it turns out, the advertised $3 ATM fee applies to local debit card transactions.  A review of our bank statement reveals that Scotia’s ATM fee for foreign debit cards is actually $14.

By mid-afternoon, Cutter Loose is again motoring east, this time from Road Town to East End.  The purpose of this destination is to attend to laundry, which has been accumulating since before Christmas.  Our course takes us past Buck Island, then north into the broad waters of Fat Hogs Bay.  Once past a large outcropping on the edge of the reef known as Red Rock, we drop the anchor in East End Bay just as the sun disappears below the horizon.  The laundry can wait until morning.  It is time to relax.

Laundry is postponed for a few hours on Thursday morning while a passing rain shower cleans the topsides of Cutter Loose.  Our patience is rewarded with a double rainbow in East End Bay, the clarity of which is as vivid as we've ever seen.  Ashore, the Laundromat is the best we have found since leaving home in October.  There are a dozen new washers and a dozen new dryers, all of which are in good operating condition.  This is the perfect facility for accomplishing five loads of dirty laundry.  Beyond accomplishing laundry, however, the town of East End offers few amenities to the cruising sailor.   By noon, the anchor is up in East End Bay.  Cutter Loose is bound for North Sound, Virgin Gorda, the site of a 60^th birthday celebration for our friend Tom of Dragon’s Toy.



The pre-birthday celebration begins at happy hour on Friday afternoon at Saba Rock.  In addition to Tom and Cary of Dragon’s Toy, we are joined by Judy and Torbin on Tivoli.  On Friday evening, we are joined by two other cruising couples for a lively birthday barbeque on the beach at Leverick Bay complete with a live band.

One of the delights of a visit to North Sound is the opportunity to see some incredible world class yachts up close and personal.  One such vessel is the 289 foot Maltese Falcon, a modern square rigger.  She was built by the reknown Perini Navi yard in 2005 for venture capitalist Tom Perkins.  This incredible sailing yacht is available for charter at a cost of $550,000 per week. 

The so-called Christmas winds have finally arrived in BVI.  High pressure in the North Atlantic is creating a tight gradient, delivering sustained trade winds of 25 knots with gusts to 30 in occasional squalls.  Caribbean marine forecaster Chris Parker suggests that robust easterlies will continue for several weeks.  In anticipation of strong winds, Cutter Loose is anchored in Biras Creek, just beyond the mooring field at Bitter End.  While the water here is quite calm, the downdrafts from the surrounding hills create periodic bursts of strong wind.  We will remain here on Saturday night and re-evaluate the forecast and our options on Sunday.

The absence of a north swell is an invitation to visit some places we have not yet seen here in the BVIs.  Submitting to the urge to explore, Cutter Loose is underway on Sunday, leaving the relative protection of North Sound en route to Lee Bay on the west side of Great Camanoe Island.  This 13 mile journey is a spirited downwind romp in wind speeds of 20 to 25 knots with occasional gusts to 30.  Because we are sailing downwind, the ride is relatively smooth and fast.  For a period of time, we are accompanied by airborne dolphins performing their acrobatic leaps about 30 yards off the port bow.  We are accustomed to dolphin swimming alongside the boat, repeatedly surfacing and diving.  Today’s dolphins are feeding on smaller bait fish which requires them to surface rapidly, catching both dinner and air in the process.



A turn to the south places Cutter Loose in the lee of Great Camanoe Island.  To our delight, Lee Bay is empty.  We are afforded the opportunity to enjoy this protected circular bay all to ourselves.  To the east is a saddle in the center of the island which allows 15 knots of wind to enter Lee Bay.  The water here is flat calm and the breeze provides a welcome source of ventilation.  Soon, the aroma of freshly baked bread fills the cabin.  Pat has certainly become an accomplished baker. 

One of the rewards of anchoring in Lee Bay is the amazing sunset views of Guana Channel and the north coast of Tortola.  This picture-perfect story comes to an end overnight when a series of squalls move through the anchorage, bringing sustained winds of 20 knots with gusts to 25.  We are awakened by the sound of the wind.  Despite the strong gusts, the water in Lee Bay remains calm.





On Monday, the downwind saga of Cutter Loose resumes with a visit to Cane Garden Bay on the north coast of Tortola.  The easterlies are calmer today with winds in the 14 to 18 knot range.  Cane Garden is a photogenic harbor with a semi-circular white sand beach dotted with an assortment of bars and restaurants.  By early afternoon, we are enjoying lunch on the beach at Rhymer’s.  Tourists from the cruise boats docked in Road Town arrive by taxi to enjoy the view and a swim before being escorted back to their boat in time for a late-afternoon departure.  By 4 PM, the beach is free of cruise boat visitors and the bars and musicians are gearing up for happy hour.  The sunset views from the beach are spectacular, which attracts a second wave of visitors to Cane Garden Bay.  Just after sunset, we return to Cutter Loose for a restful evening.

Friday, December 28th to Tuesday, January 1st

Today’s 16 mile mid-morning sail from Anegada to Tortola is a delightful broad reach in 20 knots of easterly trade winds.  The winter weather patterns here are very predictable and conducive to sailing in any direction except east.  In the Bahamas last winter, we were constantly focused on the passage of cold fronts from the east coast of the U.S.  These fronts create strong northerly winds.  They dictated every movement of Cutter Loose. 

Winter cold fronts normally stall in the southern Bahamas or Turks and Caicos, rarely reaching the Virgin Islands.  The winter weather maker here is the clockwise circulation of wind around the North Atlantic high, which consistently generates easterly trade winds.  However, stormy conditions hundreds of miles to our north often create northerly swells here in the Virgin Islands.  The swell direction often dictates our selection of anchorage.  Northerly swells have the unique knack of finding their way into even the most protected anchorages, creating uncomfortable, rolly conditions.  When the swells become wind-driven rather than storm-driven, almost every anchorage protected from the east is calm and comfortable.

Our destination today is Marina Cay, an interim stop en route to Jost Van Dyke.  Our course is roughly a re-enactment of our initial arrival in BVI, leaving the Dog Islands to port as we approach Tortola.  Surprisingly, Marina Cay is crowded with anchored boats.  We are accustomed to seeing the moorings in this harbor filled with charter boats. But it is unusual for boats to anchor here.  Just a few days ago, Cutter Loose was the only boat at anchor to the east of the mooring field.  Today, we are one of eight boats at anchor between Marina Cay and Scrub Island.  It dawns on us that this week is the peak of holiday sailing vacations in the BVI.  Perhaps more significantly, tonight is the December full moon party at nearby Trellis Bay.  In light of the fact that the harbor in Trellis Bay fills up rapidly for this event, Marina Cay serves as a convenient spillover anchorage for full moon parties.

After lunch, we take a short dinghy ride to Tortola’s newest marina and condominium community at Scrub Island.  The docks, swimming pools, restaurants and deli/grocery store are first class.  To our disappointment, however, there are no public laundry facilities at this marina.  Once back on board Cutter Loose, it is a brief swim to the reef on Great Camanoe Island, which offers many varieties of coral as well as a vibrant community of colorful reef fish.

Saturday provides an excellent opportunity to sail west from Marina Cay.  Instead of choosing the south coast of Tortola, we opt instead to explore new territory on the north coast of Tortola.  Once past the Beef Island Airport and Little Camanoe Island, Cutter Loose enters Guana Sound and subsequently through Guana Channel.  Monkey Point and White Bay are filled with anchored boats this morning.  We make a mental note to return to these attractive anchorages once the holiday crowd subsides.

Easterlies are blowing 15 to 20 knots today with 3 to 4 foot seas.  We execute a series of alternating broad reaches, jibing repeatedly as we sail west along the north coast of Tortola.  The ride is smooth on starboard tack when the swell is directly astern.  However, when the waves are on our quarter, the barrel-rolling motion aboard Cutter Loose becomes somewhat uncomfortable. 

Our destination today is the island of Jost Van Dyke.  Sailing past the white beach at Sandy Cay, we jibe the genoa one final time and set a course to Great Harbor.  This is the site of the popular NewYear’s eve party at Foxy’s.  We have agreed to meet Cary and Tom of Dragon’s Toy here for a New Year’s Eve celebration.  For weeks, we have seen promotional posters and heard stories about the overwhelming crowds at Foxy’s New Year’s Eve celebration.  Under normal circumstances, we would steer clear of such a crowded venue.  But in the interest of camaraderie and exposure to new experiences, we decide to give it a go.



Already, Great Harbor is nearly filled with pleasure boats that have secured an early mooring or anchorage in anticipation of the celebration.  Keeping our distance from the mooring field, there is an open spot in 10 feet of water on the west side of the harbor near the ferry dock.  We try to select a spot populated by responsible neighbors, seeking out a space next to fellow-cruisers and avoiding charter boats. For better or worse, the anchor is down in Great Harbor.  Let the party begin!

Ashore, the townspeople of Great Harbor are preparing for a major event.  A series of open-air restaurants, beach bars and shops line the beachfront.  Vendors are selling take-out food from their beachside stalls and counters.  Young men are openly smoking pot on the beach.  Having completed the initial reconnaissance, we return to Cutter Loose to settle in for a quiet evening.

On Saturday night, the live band at Foxy’s begins at 10 PM which just happens to coincide with lights out aboard Cutter Loose.  This concert is a precursor to the New Year’s Eve party at Foxy’s, but as it turns out, it is a major event unto itself.  Sleep is definitely out of the question given the volume of the music wafting across the harbor.  There is no alternative but to take in the audio element of the concert from the cockpit.  Although we cannot see the performers, we can hear their every word as if our stereo was blaring at high volume.  This is not just an average reggae band.  The arrangements have a distinct R&B influence.  The musicians are quite accomplished with excellent keyboard work and harmony courtesy of back-up singers.  The lead singer explains that the band arrived in BVI from Jamaica earlier today.  He reassures the crowd that the ferry will not leave the dock until the performance has ended.  Obviously, people have arrived by ferry from Red Hook to participate in the party.  We regret that we are not in attendance at this concert. 

A seemingly endless series of encores ensue.  The performance ends at 2 AM.  The silhouettes of concert-goers gradually making their way along the beach towards the ferry dock can be seen through the early morning darkness.  The ferry departs at 2:30 AM, but recorded music from the bars continues until 3 AM. 

In the immortal words of Jimmy Buffet, “there’s a thin line between Saturday night and Sunday morning”.  The Sunday morning worship service at the tiny beachfront Jost Van Dyke Methodist Church begins at 11 AM.  When we arrive promptly at 10:55 AM, the guest speaker is seated alone in the tiny sanctuary.  The pianist arrives at 11:15.  The other 20 or so parishioners arrive between 11:20 and 11:30.  Today’s guest speaker is not deterred in the least.  She offers the benediction precisely at 1:15 PM.  We are greeted warmly by members of the congregation after the service. Hunger has set in about midway through the service.  A late lunch at Corsair’s restaurant on the beach hits the spot.







Boats continue to arrive in the harbor throughout Sunday afternoon.  Our space has not been violated by recent arrivals, but there is a steady stream of would-be neighbors motoring alongside Cutter Loose in search of a spot to drop their anchor.  Sometimes, a simple presence on the foredeck is enough to deter folks from anchoring too close.  Other boaters require a convincing explanation, in which case, we converse politely about swinging patterns and the location and amount of anchor chain that we have deployed. 

Monday morning brings a new breed of boaters to Great Harbor…participants in The Yachting Week.    According to the Internet, a British travel agent has booked some 25 boats from various charter agencies specifically for young people in their twenties.  These charter yachts descend on Great Harbor like a herd of locusts, seeking to find that last square inch of available space in the harbor to drop the hook.  The twenty-something charter guests do not appear to be even remotely interested in assisting the captain with anchoring the boat.  They stand on deck, gyrating to the pulsating music.  Each boat is decorated with a Yachting Week burgee, as if to announce the arrival of the fleet.    

Soon the harbor is in chaos.  One 40 foot charter boat drops its anchor about 35 feet upwind of Cutter Loose.  This calls for a trip to the foredeck in an effort to convince the skipper that his selection of space to drop the anchor is not advantageous to either of us.  After a 15 minute trial period, he reluctantly moves on. 



The competency of these young skippers seems questionable.  When one boat is anchored, another boat rafts alongside.  Then a third boat joins the raft.  Curiously, the stern swim platform of the middle boat in the raft–up seems to have been designated as the men’s urinal while their crew mates swim off the stern of the boats on either side.  A few boats away, a Yachting Week raft-up drags down on the smaller anchored cruising yacht with the dark-colored hull.  There is a flurry of activity fending off the imminent collision.    Eventually, the Yachting Week raft-up breaks apart as each boat moves to another area of the harbor to begin the process again.  Contributing to the problem is the fact that the wind has been light and variable during the days leading up to New Years.  Boats have been swinging 360 degrees, not always in uniform alignment.  Nor are they always lying directly downwind of their anchors.  Under these conditions in a crowded harbor, anchors are sometimes set on top of the anchor rodes of previously anchored boats.  Our entire day is spent scrutinizing late arrivals that attempt to anchor over our rode or too close to Cutter Loose.  Dinghy traffic in the harbor is constant.  Many of the dinghies travel at high speeds through the anchored boats where crew members are swimming.  Very few of the dinghies use show running lights after dark. 



At 9:30 PM, it is time to join the festivities ashore.  Foxy’s has been rated amongst the top five destination New Year’s Eve parties by an international publication.  People arrive at this event by private boat, cruise ships and ferries from St. Thomas.  The beach and the bars are already filled with a mass of humanity representing people of all ages and races.  A cast of thousands will visit Jost Van Dyke tonight.  This is a significant event for an island with a population of barely 200.



The people-watching tonight is excellent.  Some of the outfits are clever.  Others are outrageous.  Many partiers are dressed in swimwear, ready at a moment’s notice for a moonlight swim.  Sidewalk stalls and games of chance attract the attention of visitors. The crowd is having fun, dancing to the music on the beach.  For many, the New Year’s Eve party is an annual mecca.  People pause along the beach to greet old friends. Everyone is friendly and well-behaved.  There is no loud, rowdy or crude behavior. 

Later in the evening, we rendezvous with friends Cary and Tom at Foxy’s.  Dragon’s Toy is anchored at Green Cay…several miles from here.  They arrive at the party via taxi.  At midnight, the traditional ten second countdown is announced on the public address system, followed by abundant kissing, hugging, noisemaking and more dancing.  The party continues until the last ferry leaves the dock at 3:30 AM.  Visiting Jost Van Dyke has had its moments of harbor-related tension given the sheer scale of this holiday event.  But being here and mingling with the crowd has been a most interesting way to welcome in the New Year.



It is now New Year’s Day.  Late night revelers are slow to stir this morning.  Ever so gradually, human forms begin to appear on anchored boats.  The charter boat raft-ups slowly break apart and move on to their next destination.  Our departure is delayed while charter boat captains sort out the tangled anchor rodes at the sandy bottom of the harbor.  No worries.  Our primary mission for the day is to replenish our supply of fresh water.  It is a sunny, windy day…perfect conditions for using the solar panels and wind generator to power the water maker.  The solitude of nearby Leinster Bay is the perfect antidote to the New Year's celebration on Jost Van Dyke.