Saturday, April 28th and Sunday, April 29th

 

[caption id="attachment_3553" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Farewell Fernandina. Farewell Florida."][/caption]

At 5 PM, Cutter Loose is underway from her mooring in Fernandina Beach.  Within 20 minutes, we are  outbound in St. Mary’s Inlet, headed to sea.  This is considered a Class A inlet to the Atlantic because it is deep, well-marked with lighted aids to navigation and protected by a long jetty on the south side of the inlet.  Naval Submarine Base St. Mary’s utilizes this inlet extensively, and as such, it is very well maintained.  To the best of our knowledge, there are no submarines in the channel this afternoon.  But 15 knot southeast winds are kicking up a nasty chop against the outflowing tide, adding yet another layer of salt to Cutter Loose.

[caption id="attachment_3552" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sunset over Cumberland Island, GA"][/caption]

After an hour of powering through the confused waters of the inlet, Cutter Loose exits the channel and locks on to a waypoint near the outermost sea buoy at Port Royal Sound, some 90 nautical miles to the northeast.  The wind is now on our starboard quarter.  Cutter Loose is loping along at 6 knots on a comfortable broad reach as the sun sets over Cumberland Island.  For the next 19 hours, we will sail parallel to the coast of Georgia and into the coastal waters of South Carolina en route to the town of Beaufort, SC.  This outside passage will bypass the twisty and shallow Georgia section of the ICW.

[caption id="attachment_3556" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Off-watch activities aboard Cutter Loose"][/caption]

Once Cutter Loose is locked on to a GPS waypoint at the Port Royal Sound sea buoy, the autopilot does the lion’s share of the work while we settle into the routines that will keep us awake and alive.  Our primary responsibility while on watch, however, is collision avoidance and making sure that the systems aboard Cutter Loose are operating effectively.  We will stand two hour watches throughout the night…one of us will run the boat while the other rests. The person on watch monitors the radar screen for traffic and invents routines to remain awake and alert (primarily snacking, sipping tea and chatting on the VHF radio with buddy boat, Island Spirit).  Radar and GPS capability enable us to track the bearing, course and speed of other vessels.  If Cutter Loose is on or near a collision course with another vessel, the instruments continually describe the degree of separation and the time period to collision…an unpleasant but necessary thought process.

It can be difficult to interpret the lighting pattern and movements of ships at sea in darkness.  Shrimpers and other fishing vessels change course and speed frequently.  But they are working the waters closer to shore and are not of major concern to us tonight.   At 10 PM, the town of Brunswick, GA appears on the western horizon.  Our course takes us directly across the approach to the shipping lanes of St. Simon’s Inlet where, as luck would have it, one freighter is inbound and another is outbound as we are transiting this area.  It is clear that the outbound vessel has altered course and will pass to our stern.  The GPS tells quite a different story about the inbound vessel.  Cutter Loose will cross paths within a mile of this vessel…too close for comfort.  From her light pattern, we can now make out the rough outline of the vessel.  We contact the freighter via VHF radio and jointly agree that Cutter Loose will alter course to starboard and pass to his stern.   What we didn’t garner from our conversation with the limited English-speaking person on the bridge of this vessel is that the big ship in the night is reducing speed and heading up into the southeast wind in order to anchor.  What at first seemed like a 30 degree course adjustment has become a wide, sweeping arc of a turn to starboard to avoid this monster.  After what seems like a prolonged period of time to clear the stern of the freighter, Cutter Loose is back on course to her waypoint.  All of the excitement helps to keep us awake.

At midnight, we are motorsailing in 11 knots of wind.  Our lunar companion in the western sky delivers a sheen of reflected light on the surface of the ocean.  Moonset at 2 AM, however, imposes complete darkness, causing the night sky to come alive with stars and constellations.  The early morning air is laden with moisture, reducing visibility.  Condensation covers the windshield.  In these black-out conditions, the green glow of the nav instruments creates an eerie but cozy atmosphere in the cockpit. 

On our bow further north, there is shipping activity in the vicinity of Tybee Inlet, the busy port of entry to the City of Savannah.  The radar screen shows an inbound freighter converging with a smaller outbound vessel.  Then both vessels continue into port.  The smaller of the two is presumably a pilot boat, returning to its point of origin after having delivered its payload to the freighter.  

[caption id="attachment_3555" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sunday morning sunrise"][/caption]

By 4 AM, the diesel engine is doing all of the work as wind speed diminishes further to 6 knots.  The sea state is ultra-calm.  Only a slight swell is noticeable on the surface of the ocean at first light.  Daylight is a cause for celebration.  It is a bright sunny morning; we can see for miles, and consuming food that one can actually see tastes much better. 

At 9 AM, Cutter Loose arrives at the sea buoy marking the entrance channel into Port Royal Sound.  There is no jetty, but the entrance is wide and well-marked with buoys.  The timing of our arrival is perfect.  We ride the flood tide into the Beaufort River, past Paris Island and under the Beaufort River Bridge.  Twenty hours and 104 miles after leaving Fernandina Beach, Cutter Loose is anchored in the harbor at Beaufort, SC.  The icing on the cake is being reunited with sailing companions and good friends aboard s/v Catspaw with whom we last shared an anchorage in Little Harbor, Abaco.   

 

 

[caption id="attachment_3554" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Welcome to Beaufort, SC"][/caption]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Monday, April 23rd to Friday, April 27th

This week, relaxation gives way to purpose.  During the next four days, Cutter Loose will cover nearly 200 miles of Florida’s coastline.  Our objective is to reach the Florida/Georgia border by the weekend. 

[caption id="attachment_3527" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pounding into 25 knot northerlies on the ICW"][/caption]

On Monday morning, Cutter Loose is underway from Vero Beach City Marina at 8:30 AM.  Our destination for today is Cocoa Village, 44 nautical miles to the north.  The forecast calls for windy conditions this afternoon…remnants of a ‘noreaster exiting New England.  But this morning, the wind is calm in the Indian River from Vero Beach to the Wabasso Bridge.  True to the forecast, winds are northwest at 20 to 30 on the ICW at noon.  We increase the throttle to punch through the three foot wind driven waves on the bow.  With each wave, salt water sprays over the deck and dodger.  By the time we arrive at Cocoa Village at 4:45 PM, the wind is still gusting over 20 knots.  Cutter Loose is anchored south of Cocoa Bridge in the lee of two high rise condominium buildings.

The wind moderates on Tuesday as we motor north along the Space Coast.  From Cocoa Village, we continue our passage along the Indian River past the Kennedy Space Center and Titusville.  Upon transiting the Haulover Canal, Cutter Loose enters the ominous sounding Mosquito Lagoon and continues on to New Smyrna Beach and the Ponce De Leon Inlet to the Atlantic.   From here, the ICW follows the Halifax River to Daytona Beach, where Cutter Loose is anchored south of Memorial Bridge for the night.  Our distance traveled today is 57 nautical miles. 

[caption id="attachment_3536" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Tall ship, Bounty, docked near the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine"][/caption]

On Wednesday, we are underway from our anchorage in Daytona Beach in order to make the 7:30 AM opening of Memorial Bridge.  Our destination today is St. Augustine, a distance of 45 nautical miles.  Our course takes us north on the Halifax River past Marineland.  The ICW meanders alongside white beaches and sand bars at Matanzas Inlet.  Thankfully, we pass through this segment at high tide.  By 3 PM, Cutter Loose is on a mooring in the harbor just south of the Bridge of Lions in St. Augustine. The tall ship Bounty is docked at the St. Augustine City Marina.  We dinghy ashore to sample the paella at the Spanish restaurant Columbia in the historic district.

[caption id="attachment_3538" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Leaving St. Augustine"][/caption]

Cutter Loose is underway on Thursday morning in time to make the 7:30 AM opening of the Bridge of Lions.  Our course takes us east towards the St. Augustine Inlet.  After a turn to the north, Cutter Loose enters the Tolomato River.  This is a particularly serene section of the ICW as the river meanders through marshes as we head towards Pine Island.  Once past Atlantic Beach and Jacksonville Beach, ICW traffic increases considerably as we approach the St. Johns River near Jacksonville.  The inflowing tide on the River thrusts Cutter Loose north into Sisters Creek at speeds of 8 knots. Further north, the ICW follows Sawpit Creek into Nassau Sound, an inlet to the Atlantic.  We enter the South Amelia River alongside Amelia Island and into Fernandina Beach where Cutter Loose is on a mooring at the Fernandina Harbor Marina.  Our journey today covers 49 nautical miles.

Friday is a lay day in Fernandina, our final day in Florida for this winter cruise.  The day is consumed with tasks including laundry, an engine oil change and fuel filter change, a visit to the local farmer’s market and a late afternoon viewing of The Hunger Games, an overrated movie in the now all-too-familiar survivor game genre.

[caption id="attachment_3543" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Sisterships Etoile and Belle Poulle"][/caption]

During our stay, the French tall ships Etoile and Belle Poule are docked at Fernandina Harbor Marina.  They are each 115 feet in length overall. The public is invited aboard for an open house.  The crew has limited ability to speak the English language and we have even less familiarity with French.   We learned that the Etoile and the Belle Poule sailed from the Azores to Puerto Rico, a passage of 24 days.  After leaving Fernandina, these vessels will participate in tall ship events in Savannah, Charleston and New York.

[caption id="attachment_3541" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at her mooring, framed by the French flags of Etoile and Belle Poule"][/caption]

Fernandina is the staging area for the next leg of our journey north.  From here, we will enter the Atlantic Ocean through the St. Mary’s Inlet for an overnight sail to Port Royal Sound where we will rejoin the ICW near the town of Beaufort, SC.

Wednesday, April 18th to Sunday, April 22nd

[caption id="attachment_3521" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Back on the ICW"][/caption]

After a restful night, the anchor is up at Fort Pierce at 10 AM.  Our destination today is Vero Beach, 12 miles to the north.  Our course takes us through the Fort Pierce turning basin, then north through the narrow dredged channel of the ICW en route to a mooring at Vero Beach City Marina.  Steering a course between the ubiquitous red and green buoys on the narrow ICW after six weeks of cruising in the Bahamas seems somewhat mundane and monotonous.  Upon reflection, however, it becomes clear that cruising the ICW on a beautiful sunny morning is undeniably a most enjoyable pastime.

The plan is to remain in Vero Beach through the weekend to wait out a complicated weather picture that includes a threat of severe thunderstorms each day between now and Sunday.  In many respects, arriving in Vero is a homecoming of sorts.  It is an opportunity to pause and reflect.  In one sense, it feels good to return to the all of the comforts, conveniences and predictability of life as we know it in the United States.  On the other hand, the entrapment of full-time cell phone access, Internet access and compulsion to consume goods and services add complexity and responsibility to the carefree lifestyle that we enjoyed so much in the Bahamas.  

[caption id="attachment_3522" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A visit from friends Marlene and Don"][/caption]

Friday’s visit from friends Marlene and Don is exactly what the doctor ordered.  After hours of conversation and an introductory tour of Cutter Loose, we walk to the beach, then scurry back to Cutter Loose as the skies darken. Within minutes of clambering aboard, the skies open with torrential rain, hail and a 180 degree wind shift with gusts topping out at an incredible 51 knots.  To their credit, our guests are not fazed in the least by the severe weather.  After the mayhem, cruisers are busy plying the mooring field in their dinghies, searching for missing gas containers, life preservers and other casualties of the thunderstorm.

Saturday morning reunites us with Marlene, Don and boat buddies Radeen and Hayden for a filling breakfast at Mrs. Mac’s Fillin’ Station, followed by an automobile excursion to Fort Pierce to partake in the bounty of the farmer’s market.  Our selection of yellow wax beans, brussel sprouts, fresh bread and Indian River grapefruit will keep the galley well-stocked for the week ahead.

[caption id="attachment_3526" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A visit from Nathan, Jen, Hannah and Hayden"][/caption]

Sunday morning begins with a brisk walk to First Pres for the 11 AM worship service.  The music at this morning’s service is performed by the Eckerd College concert choir and bell choir.  Later in the afternoon, Cutter Loose is visited by Dianne, my nephew Nathan, his wife Jennifer, their daughter Hannah (8) and son Hayden (7).  The threat of thunderstorms has finally passed.  We spend the evening preparing Cutter Loose for an early Monday morning departure.

Bahamas Epilogue

The September, 2007 issue of Cruising World magazine featured a cover story entitled The Bahamas Beckon…World-class cruising right in your own backyard.  The cover photo depicts a cruising sailboat moored in the harbor at Hopetown, framed by the Elbow Cay Reef light.  This magazine has permanently occupied the corner of my nightstand for five years, inspiring dreams of sailing expeditions to foreign places.  Our 2012 winter cruise to the Bahamas is the first chapter in the fulfillment of that dream.    

The most significant risk factor involved in sailing to the Bahamas involves crossing the Gulf Stream.   I have crossed the Stream several times as a crew member, but never as the skipper of my own vessel.  Pat had never crossed the Stream prior to this voyage.  While the crossing is not something to be taken lightly, we are living proof that with good planning and a capable vessel, this passage can be easily achieved.  We learned to begin the crossing well south of our destination in order to use the considerable cross current in the Gulf Stream to push us towards our destination.  Despite the longer distance traveled from start to finish, the increase in speed over ground adds both comfort and safety to the crossing. From listening to the unenviable tales of fellow-cruisers, we also learned that patience pays off in waiting for near-perfect conditions before crossing.  The overall experience of sailing to and from the Bahamas has built confidence for future ocean passages.

For 48 fun-filled days, we explored the northernmost region of the Bahamas, including Abaco, Grand Bahama Island and the Little Bahama Bank.  Our six week cruise provided ample time for a relaxed but thorough exploration of this area.  During our visit, we mastered the art of relaxation.  The pace of life is slower here.  Typically, we spend 3 or 4 days in one place, exploring towns, walking beaches, reading and just hanging out on Cutter Loose.  Then we move the boat to a new destination and begin the process anew.   

What is it about the Bahamas that make it a memorable cruising destination?   First and foremost, the electric turquoise color and clarity of the water is incredible, unlike any place that we have seen in the U.S.   Second, the white sand beaches in Abaco are stunning, inviting long walks and shelling expeditions.  The foreign allure of the Bahamas is also appealing to us.  Towns and harbors in Abaco (referred to as “settlements”) are more compact, attractive and interesting.  The Bahamian people are engaging, both black Bahamians and Caucasian Bahamians of Loyalist ancestry.  In fact, interacting with Bahamians was one of the highlights of our trip.  Black Bahamians speak a different language when conversing with one another, but they are always willing to speak to us in English. 

Unlike in U.S. waters, there are few buoys or aids to navigation in the Bahamas.  However, our Dodge cruising guide provides excellent navigational guidance.  After a few weeks, one’s skills in interpreting the color of the water and understanding local landmarks improve rapidly.  There is no shortage of marinas in the northern Bahamas.  But the beauty of the Bahamas can best be appreciated at overnight moorings and anchorages, which has always been our preference over marinas.  In the Florida Keys, many cruisers remain at the same marina or mooring for the entire season.  In Abaco, cruisers are more mobile, daysailing to new destinations every few days. 

We certainly experienced our fair share of windy, squally conditions in Abaco.  After all, there are few land barriers to impede the flow of wind and March is typically one of the windiest months of the year in Abaco.  But the beauty of the Sea of Abaco is the opportunity it affords for trade wind daysailing and the abundance of harbors and anchorages that provide good protection from cold fronts and strong easterlies.  During our stay, we never experienced a problem securing a slip or a mooring in the days leading up to a blow.  In settled weather, there is an abundance of attractive empty anchorages.

Many experienced cruisers refer to Abaco as an extension of Florida.  These are code words suggesting that Abaco is more tourist-oriented than the remote islands of the southern Bahamas.  After all, most things are available here in Abaco if one is willing to pay the price.  Internet access via a subscription to Bahamas WiMax or Out Island Internet is available in most of the major harbors.  Digital TV from Miami stations is available in many locations.  Groceries and restaurants are available in most settlements.  For us, these conveniences add to the cruising experience.  Yes, we regret that time did not permit us to sail further south past the island of Eleuthera to the Exuma chain.  We will save the Exumas for a future voyage.  For our first visit to the Bahamas, however, our visit to Abaco was sufficient to keep our plate filled with constant discovery, entertainment and relaxation.

We would be remiss if we failed to mention how traveling with buddy boats added an important dimension to the voyage.  On Gulf Steam crossings, companion sailors offer safety in numbers, thereby reducing anxiety.  During our stay in the Bahamas, we were in contact with as many as six cruising boats.  Our paths continually separated and re-crossed.  Each time we became reunited, we would celebrate the occasion by comparing notes and introducing one another to new acquaintances.  Gradually, our buddy boats became scattered as each crew had different timeframes for departure.  In the end, it came down to Island Spirit and Cutter Loose being the last two boats to return in tandem to the U.S.  Sharing the experience and learning from others builds friendships and adds interest and excitement to the cruising experience.

Many of the cruisers we’ve met return year after year to the Bahamas during the winter and spring.  We can certainly understand their enthusiasm.  We have thoroughly enjoyed our visit.  We’re not sure exactly when Cutter Loose will return to the Bahamas.  But we feel certain we’ll be back again to expand our exploration of this special place.

Tuesday, April 17th - return to the U.S.

[caption id="attachment_3496" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Daybreak at West End en route to Fort Pierce"][/caption]

Cutter Loose is underway before sunrise from West End, Grand Bahama Island.  Exactly twelve hours later, the anchor is down just south of the condominiums at Causeway Island near Fort Pierce Inlet.  Our journey today covers 90 miles.  With east winds at 12 to 18 knots and 3 to 4 foot swells, conditions today were ideal for a Gulf Stream crossing.  Cutter Loose motorsails on a broad reach the entire day. Other than one southbound cargo ship and a northbound RORO vessel, the waters between the U.S. and the Bahamas are free of traffic today.

Once anchored, we telephone the U.S. Customs and Border Protection office to clear customs using our Local Boater Option ID.  We provide our float plan number (submitted online from West End) and the officer provides us with an official clearance number.  We are now officially cleared and legal to go ashore.   This streamlined procedure saves us cab fare to the local Customs and Border Protection Office.

It has been a long day on the water.  Sleep will come easy tonight.

Sunday, April 15th and Monday, April 16th

[caption id="attachment_3487" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Victims of the conch rebellion in West End"][/caption]

After 60 hours at anchor waiting out gusty easterlies at Great Sale Cay, we are finally underway.  Today the wind has subsided to 20 knots and has clocked around to the southeast, placing Cutter Loose on a broad reach across Little Bahama Bank towards West End, a journey of 45 miles.  It is a relaxing downwind doorstep-to-doorstep sail, past Mangrove Cay and Barracuda Shoal and into Indian Cay Channel. 

[caption id="attachment_3486" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Toasting six great weeks of cruising in the Bahamas"][/caption]

Cutter Loose is docked at Old Bahama Bay Marina in West End, Grand Bahama Island.  This is a strategic pause to check weather and make final preparations for our Gulf Stream crossing to Fort Pierce, FL.  People here refer to Florida as “that great shopping center to the west”.  The weather appears favorable for a crossing on Tuesday, April 17^th.  All systems on Cutter Loose are “go” for an early morning departure on Tuesday.

[caption id="attachment_3488" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The sun sets on our Bahamian cruising adventure"][/caption]

Cruising in the Bahamas has been the highlight of our winter cruise.  Our departure is bittersweet.  We are sad to be leaving this country of pristine aquamarine waters, gorgeous white sand beaches and friendly people.  On the other hand, hurricane season takes no prisoners here.  Returning Cutter Loose to the relative safety of the Chesapeake Bay is the prudent course of action at this juncture.  We are already looking forward to our next voyage to the Bahamas, whenever that may be.

Wednesday, April 11th to Saturday, April 14th

Wednesday morning begins with a hearty breakfast ashore at the Green Turtle Club.  The anchor is up at 10 AM.  Cutter Loose is bound for Great Sale Cay, some 55 miles to the northwest.  The forecast for today is benign, with light winds of 5 to 10 knots clocking from southwest to west to northwest to north.  The decision is reached to push hard for Great Sale Cay today in advance of squally weather that is predicted for tonight and tomorrow when winds are expected to increase in speed and clock to the northeast as a slow-moving cold front traverses the area. 

We are pleasantly surprised to experience west winds at 15 knots on the beam on a day when we fully expected to motor to our destination.  Our course takes us past Cooperstown and Angelfish Point, then west towards Crab Cay and Foxtown.  Wind speed is now 15 to 20 knots on the bow.  Cutter Loose is powering into 3 to 4 foot waves.  A layer of salt water now covers the deck.  So much for the accuracy of the weather forecast!  To make matters worse, the charge light on the engine panel is now illuminated, indicating that the alternator is not charging the ship’s batteries...another mystery to be solved. 

[caption id="attachment_3476" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Anchorage at Great Sale Cay"][/caption]

The anchor is down at 7 PM in Northwest Harbor at Great Sale Cay.  Despite its name, there are no special sales or shopping bargains to be found at Great Sale Cay.  Rather, it is a large open bight surrounded by low-lying land on three sides that offers excellent protection from the northwest to the east.  The Cay is uninhabited.  There is no cell phone service or Internet access at Great Sale Cay.  Because it is the most protected anchorage within a 50 mile radius, many yachts stage here to commence voyages in all directions.  At this time of year, many of the yachts in this harbor will leave directly for the east coast of the U.S. 

Overnight, light winds shift to the north, then northeast.   At daybreak on Thursday, the rumble of thunder can be heard in the distance.  Sirius marine weather shows an ominous squall line to the northwest along the frontal boundary.  The bulk of the lightning and heavy thunderstorms pass to our west, but Great Sale Cay is not spared entirely.  Sixty minutes of pelting rain and 25 knot winds associated with the squall wash the salt from the decks of Cutter Loose.  Another late afternoon squall provides a second rinse.  By early evening, the front has moved south of Great Sale Cay, ushering in sustained easterly winds of 25 to 28 knots.

Each morning at 6:30 AM, meterorologist Chris Parker broadcasts marine weather for cruisers at 4045 MHz on the single sideband radio.  This is one of the highlights of our day.  According to Chris, the cold front has become stationary to our south while high pressure moves offshore from North Carolina.  The effects of this classic trade wind machine are felt all day on Friday the 13^th with gusty east winds continuing at 20 to 25 knots.   This trade wind pattern will remain in effect until the next cold front exiting the U.S. nudges the Bermuda high to the southeast. 

On Friday afternoon, there is excitement in the anchorage.  A catamaran has dragged anchor and is aground on the lee shore of Northwest Harbor.  A tow boat has been engaged to pull the vessel into deeper water.  Each of the 20 yachts in the anchorage is monitoring the VHF conversation between the grounded vessel and the tow boat.  At first, the effort fails.  But precisely at high tide, the cat begins to inch its way off of the bar.  A collective cheer from the anchorage erupts as the cat floats free.

Wind from the east at 25 knots continues to howl overnight and into Saturday morning.  It is a restless night.  Chris Parker predicts that trade wind conditions will remain in effect on Saturday.  Gale warnings are now in effect in the Gulf Stream.   According to Parker, easterly winds will begin to moderate slightly on Sunday with further moderation expected on Monday.  In the meantime, we will remain anchored at Great Sale Cay waiting patiently for the wind and seas to subside.

Tuesday, April 10th

Today’s journey of seven miles is short in distance but long on symbolic significance.  In transiting Whale Cay Passage, we leave behind the Sea of Abaco and officially begin our return to the U.S.  Once “above the Whale”, we will follow a course north and west across the Little Bahama Bank towards West End, our point of departure for Florida.

At 10 AM, the anchor is up at Treasure Cay and Cutter Loose is bound for Whale Cay, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Sea of Abaco.  There is barely one foot of swell running in the cut when we enter the Ocean at slack high tide.   Conditions couldn’t be more favorable for this brief passage around Whale Cay.   When transiting the Whale, boring is good.

At 1 PM, we are anchored in White Sound at Green Turtle Cay.  The holding ground in this harbor is notoriously poor.  But the wind today is light, so holding will not be a problem.  Today’s calm conditions are in sharp contrast to the 25 knot trade winds that kept us docked at the Green Turtle Club for three days in early March.  An afternoon stroll to the ocean beach provides a welcome diversion. 

In addition to being a lovely harbor, overnighting at Green Turtle Cay offers an opportunity to access the latest weather predictions via Internet.  After departing Green Turtle, we will be without Internet access until arriving at West End.  Based on current forecasts, a potential weather window for crossing the Gulf Stream appears to be opening during the period beginning Saturday 4/14 through Tuesday 4/17.  Our goal for the next four days is to position Cutter Loose to take advantage of this opportunity.

Thursday, April 5th to Monday, April 9th

[caption id="attachment_3440" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Increasing cloudiness at Treasure Cay Marina"][/caption]

The anchor is up in Marsh Harbour at 7:45 AM on Thursday morning.  Cutter Loose is bound for the resort community of Treasure Cay, some 14 miles to the north.  Treasure Cay is one of the all-weather harbors in the Sea of Abaco, and all indications are that this protection will be needed during the next few days.  A cold front is approaching from the northwest and is expected to pass through here on Friday afternoon.   Ahead of the front, the atmosphere is unstable and a thunderstorm is not out of the question today.  Already, the winds have increased to 20 knots and thickening clouds have taken on a menacing appearance. 

At 10:30 AM, Cutter Loose is safely docked at the Treasure Cay Marina where she will remain for the next few days until the cold front has passed.  This is our first stay at a marina since our visit to the Green Turtle Cay Club exactly one month ago.  The forecasters are predicting a high probability of 40  knot squalls on the leading edge of tomorrow’s front.  Discretion, as the saying goes, is the better part of valor.

Activity at Treasure Cay Marina is brisk this morning with many yachts arriving in advance of the impending storm.  Comfortable with the safety afforded by our slip, we set out to explore this community.  Treasure Cay is a destination resort that has been developed with waterfront condos, pools, restaurants, beach bars, a golf course, tennis courts and a small shopping district.  It even has its own airport with direct flights to Florida.  The population here is primarily snowbirds and vacationers from the U.S.  

The primary attraction of Treasure Cay is a pristine 5 mile beach, rated by National Geographic as one of the top ten beaches on the planet.  The commercial shopping area, complete with a bakery, two grocery stores, a Laundromat, a liquor store and gift shops, is bustling with activity today.  Good Friday and Easter Monday are national holidays and all of the shops will be closed.  It pays to shop early here at Treasure Cay.

[caption id="attachment_3442" align="alignright" width="208" caption="Entertainment at the Tipsy Turtle"][/caption]

Thursday night is pizza night at the Tipsy Seagull marina bar.  At 6:30 PM, we enter the pizza queue, a line of customers meandering around the perimeter of the outdoor bar waiting to place their order.  Guests in the pizza line are conversing , engaging in the fine art of people watching and gyrating to the music being performed by the house calypso band.   At 7:30 PM, we place our order and are given a number to display prominently on our poolside table.  The pizza is delivered to our table at 8 PM.  This is part of the beauty of the Bahamas.  Where else can one wait 90 minutes for a pizza without becoming the least bit impatient? 

[caption id="attachment_3439" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="a sign of the times"][/caption]

 

Here is yet another example of Bahamian humor.  Apparently, the Coco Beach Bar can accommodate only one guest at a time during normal business hours.  They removed an undesirable body from time to time, which was probably appreciated by their sole guest.   The prohibition against loafing is particularly ironic.  Most people come here for the express purpose of loafing.  We loaf everyday.  Truth be told, the Bahamians do their fair share of loafing.  In any event, we appreciate the efforts of the Bahamians to keep us entertained.

On Good Friday, the morning radar shows a line of squalls headed our way, but the front is moving slowly and is still several hours away.  We take advantage of this opportunity to walk the beach to Sand Bank Point.  From this vantage point, it is possible to look out over the Sea of Abaco to Whale Cay, our next navigational objective once the storm and its after-effects have passed. The wind has become eerily calm, but the dark clouds on the northwest horizon are becoming closer now.  We scurry back to  Cutter Loose to learn just what this cold front has in store for us.

Sirius weather radar shows a series of pre-frontal squall lines with showers and thunderstorms bearing down on the Sea of Abaco.  Squall # 1 is a two hour event that arrives mid-afternoon with 38 knot wind gusts, thunder, lightning and enough rain to fill the dinghy with 5 inches of water.  Squall #2 is less intense.  It arrives late in the afternoon with moderate rain and wind gusts in the 25 knot range.  Squall #3 is a more benign event with late evening showers lasting less than an hour.  By midnight, the front has passed, but the house band at the Tipsy Turtle is still belting out the tunes.

Saturday brings clear skies and blustery winds from the northeast at 20 to 25 knots.  After morning laundry detail, we move Cutter Loose from her slip at Treasure Cay Marina to a quieter anchorage in the harbor.  By late afternoon, winds have diminished to 15 knots.   Best of all, the Tipsy Turtle house band is barely audible in the anchorage on Saturday night. 

Easter Sunday begins at the 9 AM worship service of the Treasure Cay Community Church located in the community center.  Following the service, it is off to breakfast at the Spinnaker restaurant.  Today is a lovely day for a walk along the beach.  This time, we walk three miles to the northwest where the beach ends at Carleton Point, a rocky outcropping.  To the east, waves are breaking at Whale Cay.  With winds in the 15 knot range out of the east, today would not be a comfortable day to transit Whale Cay passage.

[caption id="attachment_3441" align="alignleft" width="242" caption="Shaniqua serves up lunch and conversation at Treasure Sands"][/caption]

A mid-afternoon pause for lunch at the Treasure Sands Club brings us in contact with Shanique, our 21 year old waitress with a disarming smile and an effervescent personality.   Shanique (pronounced shawn-ee’-qua) speaks openly about Bahamian politics, the history of the woman’s suffrage movement and race relations in Abaco.  We learn that the Free National Movement (FNM) party will conduct a “red splash” political rally tomorrow on the beach for the Prime Minister, Hubert Ingraham.  At the rally, the Prime Minister will dedicate a recently constructed waterfront park.  There will be live music, food and beverages, all staged in support of Mr. Ingraham’s candidacy for re-election.  As it turns out, Shanique is a relative of the Prime Minister.  With her political connection, self-confidence and interpersonal skills, it would not surprise us in the least should Shanique become the first female Bahamian Prime Minister.

[caption id="attachment_3443" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Lunch on the beach at Treasure Sands Club"][/caption]

On Easter Monday, we trek along the beach to the new waterfront park to mix it up with the locals at the FNM political rally.  This is a family event with games for the children and food and beverages for the adults.  People are on the beach and in the water having a good time.  Everyone is dressed in red, the symbol of the FNM Party.  The Prime Minister arrives at 2 PM.  He seems to know just about everybody, which is understandable because his hometown is located nearby.  He works the crowd, shaking hands with most of the 300 people in attendance.  There is a military presence, but security is lax.  Even Pat manages to attract a royal handshake from the candidate. 

[caption id="attachment_3456" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The PM's security entourage poses for a photo op...but who is protecting the PM?"][/caption]

[caption id="attachment_3455" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Hubert Ingraham is seeking a third term as Prime Minister of the Bahamas"][/caption]

In his speech, he promises to announce the date of the National election within the next few days.  Under Bahamian law, the Prime Minister selects the date of the election.  It could be later this week, next week or next month.  The Bahamians in attendance at this event are cordial and warm, even though it is obvious that we are cruising sailors from the U.S. and cannot vote for their candidate.  This has been an interesting and enlightening way of spending our final day at Treasure Cay.

Tuesday, April 3rd and Wednesday, April 4th

[caption id="attachment_3417" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sunrise at the Sugar Loaves"][/caption]

Daybreak at the Sugar Loaves finds Cutter Loose surrounded by flat calm emerald water for as far as the eye can see.   This attractive setting invites exploration by dinghy, including a circumnavigation of Sugar Loaf Cay with side trips to nearby Matt Lowe Cay beach and Sugarloaf Creek.  This sure beats the morning commute to work in rush hour traffic.



[caption id="attachment_3418" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Beach at Matt Lowe Cay...seriously, why would one ever want to leave Abaco?"][/caption]

There comes a time in every voyage when the “outward bound exploration” mode gives way to a “return to home base” mode.  We are now at that juncture, revisiting harbors that we have already explored and making plans to visit a few new destinations before leaving the Sea of Abaco.  As recently as a few days ago, we were content to relax and enjoy the moment, checking the weather forecast for today and tomorrow.  Now, we have begun to focus equally on the long-range forecast, identifying trends and developing tentative schedules for the critical passages through Whale Cay and across the Gulf Stream to Florida.  The goal is to return Cutter Loose to the relative safety of the Chesapeake Bay before the onset of hurricane season on June 1^st.

[caption id="attachment_3422" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Fully stocked shelves at Maxwell's Grocery Store"][/caption]

The anchor is up in the Sugar Loaves at 11:30 AM.  Cutter Loose is bound for Marsh Harbor for one final provisioning visit to Maxwell’s Grocery Store and Da Bes Yet Bakery.  Maxwell’s restocks its shelves on Tuesday and Friday afternoons.  Today, the selection of fresh fruits and vegetables at Maxwell’s is at its peak.  Almost any product can be purchased at Maxwell’s, albeit at prices 30% higher than in the U.S.  This pricing is understandable since all of the products sold here arrive by freighter.

Not to be outdone, Da Bes Yet Bakery offers a full selection of freshly baked bread today, including those highly sought-after loaves of whole wheat bread.   We will miss our visits to Da Bes Yet.

We spend our final night in Marsh Harbour at the Jib Room barbeque.  This is a Wednesday night tradition in Marsh Harbour.  We are joined by five Island Packet owners whose boats are anchored in the harbor.  Live entertainment tonight is provided by Desmond, a limbo dancer whose signature act involves squatting under a flaming limbo stick resting a mere 12 inches above the ground.

[caption id="attachment_3428" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Desmond goes under the limbo stick"][/caption]

Sunday, April 1st and Monday, April 2nd

It is Palm Sunday in Hope Town.  At 11 AM, the bells of St. James Methodist Church call the faithful to worship.  Pastor Marie, a Black Bahamian circuit rider minister, addresses an audience that is 99% Caucasian.  As we enter, she is pinning large pointed ears to a child’s toy horse as a prop for her Palm Sunday sermon.  Large plate glass windows behind the pulpit offer a panoramic view of the white sand beach and the ocean beyond.  It is unusual to peer out at Sunday morning snorkelers hovering over the reef and bikini-clad women strolling along the beach during a worship service.  These distractions do not hold a candle to Pastor Marie’s extemporaneous and inspirational message.

[caption id="attachment_3405" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Worship with a view of the beach"][/caption]

In the Bahamas, there is a shortage of ministers that are willing or able to serve small out island congregations.  Pastor Marie travels from the island of Eleuthera, 75 miles to the south to conduct today’s worship service.   She divides her time amongst three churches in Abaco.  The parishioners of St. James Methodist are treated to her sermons only once every three weeks.  In the intervening Sundays, Vernon Malone, the town grocer, delivers the Sunday morning sermon.

[caption id="attachment_3409" align="alignright" width="235" caption="Vernon Malone"][/caption]

Vernon assists in the worship service and is an accomplished speaker in his own right.  We are customers at his grocery store, as are all of the other residents and visitors in Hope Town.  Above his cash register at the grocery is an official proclamation signed by Queen Elizabeth acknowledging his human service contribution to residents of the Bahamas.  Vernon is recognized by the Bahamian Methodist Church as a lay minister.  When not officiating at his home church in Hope Town, he volunteers his services to facilitate worship services at other churches throughout Abaco and beyond.  In his grocery store, however, he is casually dressed in shorts and a t shirt, baking coconut bread and entertaining his customers.  In addition to operating the grocery store, Vernon also functions as Hope Town’s Justice of the Peace and Marriage Officer.

[caption id="attachment_3408" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Poolside lunch at Hopetown Harbor Lodge"][/caption]

Following the service, we pause for an ocean-side lunch on the terrace at Hopetown Harbour Lodge.  In the afternoon, it is off to the laundry in the dinghy with our sack of dirty clothes.  Sundays are quiet days in Hope Town, as most of the businesses are closed.  At dusk, we relax in the cockpit of Cutter Loose to witness the daily lighting of the lighthouse for the final time during our stay in Abaco.



[caption id="attachment_3410" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose at the Sugar Loaves"][/caption]

Monday brings yet another day of settled weather to the Hub of Abaco with winds less than 10 knots.  Cutter Loose is underway from Hopetown Harbor on a rising tide, bound for an  overnight anchorage at the Sugar Loaves, a series of craggy mounds protruding from the aquamarine water.  Cutter Loose is alone in this spot.  There is not another vessel in sight.  With just a hint of a breeze, the Sea of Abaco is perfectly flat.  The reassuring rythym of the Elbow Cay Reef Light is visible on the southeast horizon…five one-second flash intervals followed by five seconds of darkness.  The temperature is perfect for an evening of relaxation in the cockpit spent stargazing, absorbing this peaceful setting and listening to Dvorak’s Czech Suite.  Already, we are enjoying sweet memories of the Sugar Loaves.