Wednesday, August 31st

Day 90 and 1,568 miles into the summer cruise, yet another day of settled weather provides a fitting backdrop for the next leg of our journey.  The anchor is up at 6:30 AM in Oyster Bay on the north shore of Long Island.  We time our departure to arrive at Hell Gate at noon. 

The notorious Hell Gate is located at the confluence of the East River and the Harlem River, where tidal currents create havoc when opposed by wind.  But today, Hell Gate is calm at slack tide.  We ride the favorable current south through the Upper East Side, past Roosevelt Island, under the Brooklyn Bridge, into busy New York Harbor and under the Verrazona Narrows Bridge.  Similar to an extended downhill on a bicycle, there is nothing quite as satisfying as a fair tide. 

[caption id="attachment_1490" align="alignright" width="300" caption="The Battery"][/caption]

Navigation is made difficult today by residual floating debris from Irene.  Tree branches, pilings, logs and other flotsam dot the surface of the water.  Wakes from the ferries and tour boats churn the waters and make it difficult to spot floating objects.

Cutter Loose is anchored just outside the mooring field at Atlantic Highlands, inside Sandy Hook, NJ.  We last visited this harbor on June 7th en route to Maine.  After sunset, the dramatic Manhatten skyline framed by the Verrazona Bridge is clearly visible to the north.

We prep the boat for an early morning departure.  Easterly winds are predicted for tomorrow's 90 mile coastal jaunt to Atlantic City.

[caption id="attachment_1491" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Farewell, Miss Liberty"][/caption]

Tuesday, August 30th

After six days in Dering Harbor, it feels WONDERFUL to be underway.  And what a day it is!  The sun is shining and there is a light breeze out of the north.  At 6 AM, Cutter Loose eases out of the harbor and retraces her steps to Plum Gut.   Unlike our earlier unsuccessful effort to travel west in Long Island Sound, today's tide is favorable and the wind is on our beam.  Due to the fair tide, we are making 7.5 knots over the ground in 9 knots of true wind.

By 1:45 PM, we are abeam of Port Jefferson, our original destination for the day.  We decide to continue on to Oyster Bay to rendezvous with friends Dianne and John on Different Tack.  Like us, Dianne and John are coming out of hiding from Irene.  Their refuge of choice has been the Hudson River.  We enjoy an impromptu party aboard Different Tack upon our arrival at Oyster Bay.

Our journey today covers 62 miles in 12 hours.  We are well-positioned to mobilize our assault on the East River and New York Harbor in the morning.

Monday, August 29th - 6th day in Shelter Island

Today is a gorgeous day...clear blue skies, just a hint of a high level cloud or two and abundant sunshine.  There is nothing quite like a hurricane to cleanse the atmosphere of haze and humidity.  It is a good day to be alive and it is particularly good to be back aboard Cutter Loose.

Today is a work day to transform the boat from hurricane defensive mode to cruising mode.  Sails are installed.  Canvas dodger, bimini and enclosure are erected.  The dinghy is removed from the lazarrette locker, inflated and hung from the stern arch.  We do our best to clean the salt spray from Cutter Loose with a limited supply of fresh water.  By 7 PM, our work is complete.  She feels like home again.

We want to thank everyone that has corresponded with us via e mail and phone calls during the past few days.  Your concern about our welfare is very much appreciated.  E mail helps us to stay connected.  We enjoy hearing from you, so please don't wait for the next hurricane to communicate.  We are also counting our blessings and thinking of those less fortunate individuals who suffered losses resulting from Irene, including those who lost their lives. 

Tomorrow we resume our journey west in Long Island Sound.  After six days in Dering Harbor under challenging circumstances, it will feel good to be underway once again.

Sunday, August 28th - surviving Irene at Shelter Island

Good news.  We are alive and well.  Cutter Loose is still afloat on her mooring.

Irene announced her arrival at 1 AM with wind gusts whistling around the skylight in our room at the Chequit Inn.  Dering Harbor has been without power since 1:30 AM.  At dawn, there is a light rain being driven sideways by significant wind gusts.  During my walk to the yacht club, there is minor flooding, severed tree limbs and broken branches, but no uprooted trees or downed wires.  I am elated to see Cutter Loose bouncing around her mooring on the far reaches of the harbor.  The wind is out of the southeast as predicted.  The dockmaster at the yacht club estimates Irene's maximum sustained winds at 50 knots with gusts to 60.

[caption id="attachment_1457" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Accommodations at the Chequit Inn"][/caption]

The skeleton staff at the Chequit Inn graciously prepares an impromptu continental breakfast for its seven overnight guests.  We spend the morning swapping stories with the crew of Rula Bula, an Island Packet out of Fort Lauderdale.  They are fellow transients in the harbor.  Through these conversations, we gain useful insights about cruising in southern Florida and the Bahamas. 

At 2 PM, the rain has ended.  The wind has subsided and is now out of the southwest.  The dockmaster is in the process of reestablishing launch service.  He agrees to deliver us to Cutter Loose later in the afternoon for a damage assessment.  Our inspection reveals that everything is exactly as it was when we left the boat 24 hours ago.  There is no visible damage, no chafe on the mooring line, no excess water in the bilge, the refrigeration is operating smoothly and the house battery bank remains adequately charged.  What a welcome relief!

We are fortunate to have dodged this bullet.  With the strongest winds out of the southeast, south and southwest, Dering Harbor provided excellent protection.  We are fortunate that our dockmaster friend permitted us to remain on the yacht club's 1,000 pound mooring.  Irene's track turned out to be well to the west of Shelter Island which kept wind velocities at tropical storm strength rather than hurricane strength.  And we met some interesting cruising sailors who motivated us to cruise the Bahamas this winter.  For all of these things and more, we are profoundly grateful.

Saturday, August 27th - waiting for Irene in Dering Harbor

[caption id="attachment_1443" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Hurricane warning flags flying at Shelter Island Yacht Club"][/caption]

With the bulk of the preparation behind us, today we wait for the arrival of Irene.  The sky is overcast, the humidity is near 100% and the water in Dering Harbor is flat...the perverbial calm before the storm.  The diesel generator is charging the house battery bank so that there is adequate capacity to power the refrigeration during our absence.  We pack an overnight bag in anticipation of our move ashore.  Included in our duffel bags are valuables...phones, computers, EPIRB, checkbooks, insurance information.  We review our hurricane checklist for shutting down the boat.  Everything is in order.  This feels so final.

The yacht club launch maneuvers along our starboard side.  We board the launch with our meager belongings in tow.  Our eyes gaze upon Cutter Loose as the launch speeds away towards the dock.  We are abandoning ship...a difficult but necessary precaution.

[caption id="attachment_1444" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Abandoning ship via yacht club launch"][/caption]

Minutes later we are checked in at the Chequit Inn in the village of Dering Harbor.  It is an 1872 hotel, but well-maintained and clean.  We are issued candles at the desk.  How romantic!  But the front desk clerk quickly informs us that a power outage is likely.  After 86 days of living aboard, it feels wonderfully strange to be in a hotel room with a king bed and a large walk-in shower. 

We decide to take a stroll through town before conditions deteriorate.  The windows of the shops are boarded and taped.  Many of the businesses have posted "closed" signs on the door.  There is an evacuation order in effect for Long Island.  While we are certainly not the only folks in the village, there is very little activity on the streets.  There is a distinct eerie feel to this normally vibrant village.

We enjoy a hearty meal tonight at Sweet Tomato, an establishment that we became acquainted with during our visit to Shelter Island in June.  It seems altogether fitting and appropriate that we should dine in style on the eve of Irene. 

Light rain is falling as we return to our room at the Chequit.  It appears that the period of peak winds from Irene will occur between 7 AM and 3 PM on Sunday.  We are hopeful that Irene will continue to weaken and track further to the west.  We will not rest comfortably until we return to the harbor in the morning and see Cutter Loose afloat on her mooring.

Friday, August 26th - preparing for Irene in Dering Harbor

[caption id="attachment_1426" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Stripping Cutter Loose of her sails and canvas in advance of Irene"][/caption]

Today is a crunch day, preparing Cutter Loose for the arrival of Irene.  We work from 8 AM to 8 PM removing and storing headsails, dodger, bimini, dinghy, outboard and lashing  lines on deck.  By the end of the day, we are exhausted.   But it is a good feeling of exhaustion.  We are on a mission.

We take time away from Cutter Loose mid-morning to dinghy over to the yacht club.  We are prepared to plead our case to the dockmaster, but he is busy on a conference call with yacht club officials.  Irene has everybody's attention. 

During our visit, we overhear the conversations of yacht club members as they sip coffee on the deck overlooking the harbor.  They are looking forward to spirited racing on Saturday.  They comment on the surprising number of boats remaining in the harbor, many of which still have sails that should be removed prior to the storm.  While these folks are enjoying coffee, there are sailors in the harbor whose lives and life savings swing in the balance of Irene.   Rather than pitching in to help out, these folks describe the inattention to detail as "criminal".  We are clearly out of our element here in Dering Harbor.

The dockmaster maneuvers the yacht club launch alongside Cutter Loose late in the afternoon.  He  explains that our mooring is owned by a woman who lives in a home with a harbor view.  She notices Cutter Loose in the harbor and calls to express her discomfort with the notion of a transient boat attached to her mooring during a storm.  He apologetically directs us to an alternate mooring in the outer harbor...so far out that we seem closer to Greenport than Dering Harbor.  The theory is that we are less of a threat to the boats of yacht club members if Cutter Loose is on the outskirts of the harbor.  On one hand, we are pleased that we are permitted to stay.  We are no longer orphans.  But our new location in the outer harbor is significantly less protected.

The latest forecasted track of Irene is ever so slightly to the west of our present location.  We try not to overreact to the NOAA updates.  Besides being depressing, the forecast will undoubtedly change as Irene draws nearer.  We have heard predictions of wind speeds that are all over the map.  It is theoretically possible for the storm to weaken or track further inland.  At this point, we have no control over the weather.  We are where we are and what will be, will be.  But the basics are as follows.  East winds should begin to crank up here in Dering Harbor on Saturday evening.  The real action will begin after midnight with gusts forecasted in the 55 knot range.  On Sunday morning at the peak of the storm, southeast, then southwest winds are predicted.  Then on Sunday evening, the winds will shift to the west, which is the sector of our greatest exposure.  By Monday morning, Irene will be history. 

While we are putting the finishing touches on prepping Cutter Loose for Irene on Saturday morning, our friends on the Chesapeake Bay will be encountering tropical storm conditions.  We wish them well and pray for continued weakening of Irene.  There is an element of selfishness in this sentiment.  Our Subaru in the parking lot of Osprey Point Marina in Rock Hall is threatened by storm surge.  We should have left a set of keys with friends Bill and Alice.

Thursday, August 25th - lay day in Dering Harbor

We are awake at daybreak to the sound of 20 knots of wind whistling through the rigging.  In our state of residual dreaminess, our first thought is that Irene has arrived earlier than expected.  But this is not the case.  It is simply an early morning clash between an approaching cold front and a high pressure area moving on to the east.   The forecast for today is for rain and wind.  NOAA has issued a small craft advisory for Long Island Sound.  A small scale preview of coming attractions.

We receive disappointing news from our hosts at the local yacht club this morning.  They ask that we vacate Cutter Loose from its mooring by Saturday.  In 1991, the dockmaster was hung out to dry by club members when a gaggle of boats wound up in a jumble at the head of the harbor during Hurricane Bob.  A transient boat on a yacht club mooring allegedly contributed to that mess.  Now the dockmaster is gun shy about dealing with transients during hurricanes.  This creates a new dilemma...where to go from here?  We are beginning to feel like orphans.

[caption id="attachment_1407" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Irene's projected track based on 5 PM NOAA update"][/caption]

If that isn't enough, there is unsettling news relative to Irene.  NOAA's projected storm track shows Irene hugging the Atlantic coast to New York City, then moving inland to Danbury Connecticut.  If NOAA's projections are correct, Cutter Loose will be on the east side of the storm center, which is the most intense sector.  Winds will be from the east, then southeast, then south and finally southwest.  We need to find a place that is protected from those directions. 

We make it a point to chat with other boaters in the harbor.  It seems that everybody has a different take on the storm.  Several potential anchorages in the Shelter Island area are mentioned, but each has its drawbacks.  Some are difficult to enter due to narrow channels.  Some lack good holding ground for anchors to grasp.  Some are exposed to the direction of the anticipated wind.  Our inquiries about  a haulout did not produce a callback.  We spend the afternoon researching the weather and scouring the charts for suitable anchorages.  One thought would be to move west tomorrow in Long Island Sound to Port Jefferson or Huntington Harbor.   But calls to mooring agents in those harbors fail to produce results.  The reality is that transient boaters are low man on the totem pole in terms of priority, especially in advance of a blow.  After all, it makes good business sense for boatyards to cater to their regular customers.

It is obvious that Dering Harbor is the best possible place for Cutter Loose to be during Irene.  The harbor is well-protected from the east, southeast, south and southwest...exactly what the doctor ordered.  We must convince the dockmaster to permit us to stay.  Barring that, we must find a private mooring or some tiny corner of the harbor in which to anchor that is just out of the mooring field.   But in any event, we will remain here in Dering Harbor for the duration of Irene.

It is ironic that we have traveled over 1500 miles on this summer cruise without a hint of a threat to our well-being, only to cross paths with a powerful hurricane in Long Island Sound.  As sailors, we must be prepared to encounter and deal with storms.  We accept that responsibility.  But the constant uncertainty about where we will ride out Irene (not to mention the frightening weather forecast) is taking its toll on morale.  We need a consistent battle plan.  Once we begin the process of prepping Cutter Loose for the defense, the cause will create positive momentum.

Wednesday, August 24th

At 6 AM, Cutter Loose is underway from its mooring at Orient Harbor.  Our destination for today is Port Jefferson, some 50 miles to the southwest of Orient Harbor.  We pass through the tidal rips at Plum Gut to enter Long Island Sound.   Our southwesterly progress is resisted by 15 knot headwinds and 2 knots of adverse current.  When an occasional wave crashes on the foredeck, our speed over the ground is reduced to 3 knots.  If we continue on this course, we will make Port Jeff at midnight.  Clearly, Port Jeff is not an achievable destination for today.

With our tails between our legs, we reverse direction and return to Plum Gut, making 9 knots of speed over ground with the benefit of the current now in our favor.  For better or worse, we are destined to ride out Irene at Shelter Island.

Cutter Loose is bobbing on a mooring in Dering Harbor.  This harbor is well-protected from the east, south and southwest.  But it is exposed to the north and west.  We are sitting in the cockpit trying to imagine this picturesque harbor under the influence of 50 MPH winds and 5 feet of storm surge.  Not a pleasant thought.  The National Weather Service is predicting a 10 to 20 percent likelihood of winds up to 39 MPH.  NWS is forecasting a 5 percent likelihood of winds between 40 MPH and 74 MPH.  We take little comfort in the knowledge that NWS is predicting a zero percent chance of hurricane force winds in excess of 74 MPH.

There are two marinas in the adjacent community of Greenport that have the ability to haul boats out of the water with a travelift.  The boat would then be stored on jackstands in the boatyard.  One marina informs us that they simply cannot accommodate our request.  The other marina agrees to place us at the bottom of their waiting list.  They will call us if time and space permits.

Hauling the boat is perhaps the safest strategy in light of the strength of Irene.  But placing the boat "on the hard" is not without its complications.  In order to haul Cutter Loose, the yard insists on stepping or removing her 62 foot mast and standing rigging.  Our refrigeration system relies on seawater, so all of the food in the freezer and fridge would presumably be lost.  Once the storm passes, it will take days to prep Cutter Loose for departure. 

We are still waiting to hear about our status on the waiting list.  In the meantime, we continue to check Irene updates from NWS, pondering our next moves should the storage option fail to materialize.  We can remain on this mooring or move Cutter Loose to a more protected anchorage.   The downside of moving her to an anchorage is that we will not know until the very last minute whether the center of the storm will pass to the east or west of Shelter Island.  This will determine the direction of Irene's maximum winds, and the anchorage must be selected accordingly.  Once that information is known, there is the risk that anchorages in the Shelter Island area will already be filled with boats seeking similar protection.  In a hurricane, there are no good alternatives.

Tuesday, August 23rd

Irene is very much on our minds today.  The fundamental question for today is whether to stay in Newport or seek protection elsewhere.  Newport Harbor is exposed to the north...not an ideal place to be in a blow.  We decide to move west into Long Island Sound.

It is a superb day for travel...sunshine and blue skies.  Visibility is crystal clear.  Seas are calm.  We pass Block Island on our port side and set sail for Shelter Island on Long Island, 58 miles to the southwest.  Cutter Loose is on a mooring in wide-open Orient Harbor.  The weather will be calm tonight, so exposure is not an issue. 

Our plan for tomorrow is to move southwest along the north shore of Long Island which offers several alternative harbors of refuge.  A pre-Irene weather disturbance will pass through Long Island Sound on Thursday.  Thereafter, a few days of relative calm will precede the arrival of Irene on Sunday or Monday.

Monday, August 22nd - lay day in Newport

The passage of a cold front early this morning was more of a wind event than a rain event.  Maximum wind speeds in Newport Harbor were in the 20 knot range...significantly less than forecasted.  Winds out of the northwest bring cooler, dryer air with abundant sunshine and crystal clear skies.  We are feeling the cleansing effect of a cold front.

Today we focus on boat chores, including an engine oil change.  By previous arrangement, the local Spectra tech visits Cutter Loose on her mooring to commission the  watermaker system.  This device desalinates sea water and fills the water tank with 17 gallons of potable water per hour.   We learned all about fresh water flushing, pickling, testing the water for salinity, changing filters and other fascinating aspects of watermaking. 

It is now clear that Hurricane Irene is a critical factor that will delay our progress to the Chesapeake Bay.   Cutter Loose cannot outrun this potential storm.  This calls for defensive  tactics.  There are several potential anchorages in Long Island Sound that offer good protection from winds with a northerly component.  Thousands of boat owners on Narragansett Bay and Long Island Sound are currently considering their alternatives.  By midweek, if Irene is projected to continue north along the coast, there will be considerable competiton for protected anchorages.  Our plan is to move Cutter Loose to a protected area in the next 24 hours, then settle in and wait.

In the meantime, we explore the docks at Newport Shipyard, the mega-yacht center in Newport harbor.  Crew members and contractors are busy preparing these yachts to sail.  There is a distinct intensity of purpose on this dock.  Just witnessing the caliber of these incredible yachts is a source of entertainment.

[caption id="attachment_1352" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Custom replica of a vintage J Boat"][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_1353" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Mega-cruiser on the dock at Newport Shipyard"][/caption]

 

[caption id="attachment_1354" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Preparing Ranger for Sea Duty"][/caption]

Sunday, August 21st - lay day in Newport

The day begins at Starbucks followed by the 9:30 AM service at First Pres.  For the second Sunday running, we witness a congregation that is lamenting the imminent departure of its organist and choir director. 

[caption id="attachment_1335" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Newport's Cliff Walk"][/caption]

At noon, the wind is already  piping up in the harbor.  The upwind dinghy ride to Cutter Loose leaves us with two wet butts.   It is a warm, humid day with sunny skies.  The heat and humidity is made tolerable by the brisk wind.  Rather than transporting the bikes to shore via dinghy in the choppy harbor, we decide instead to hike Cliff Walk, a flat pedestrian trail along the rocky coast of Rhode Island Sound.  After lunch at the Greek restaurant on Thames Street, we walk 2 miles on Spring Street where we pause to visit the oppulent Breakers stable.  The Vanderbilt's horses and carriages were kept in style at this attractive building.  Continuing on Spring Street, we enter Cliff Walk trailhead at Bailey's Beach. 

[caption id="attachment_1336" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A cozy cottage alongside Cliff Walk"][/caption]

Cliff Walk itself is 3.5 miles of ocean views in the shadow of magnificent waterfront mansions.  On a pleasant Sunday afternoon, visitors flock to the trail.  It is an easy stroll where at every turn, we are treated to dramatic views of waves crashing on marble boulders. We return to the harbor via Memorial Boulevard, the International Tennis Hall of Fame and the local Shop and Stop foodstore. The sky is overcast and the wind is  humming along at 20 knots.  NOAA has issued a severe thunderstorm warning and a small craft advisory for Rhode Island Sound, Block Island Sound and Buzzards Bay.  Weather radar shows a pre-frontal line of showers and thunderstorms moving in our direction. The probability of precipitation in Newport tonight is 100%.

[caption id="attachment_1337" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="The grass courts of the International Tennis Hall of Fame in Newport"][/caption]

Saturday, August 20th

The sun and the anchor are up at 7:15 AM in Hadley Harbor.  This marks the beginning of the 79th day of our summer cruise.  What a difference a day makes!  Yesterday, Buzzards Bay was a mass of whitecaps and choppy seas.  This morning, the Bay is relatively calm.  Ten knots of wind out of the south southwest enables Cutter Loose to sail through Buzzards Bay and into Rhode Island Sound on a liesurely 42 mile close reach into Naragansett Bay and Newport Harbor.

It is Saturday afternoon and that means that Naragansett Bay is heavily populated with weekend warriors.  Recreational fishermen in their small boats are bobbing at anchor in the entrance channel.  Commercial fishermen are returning to their docks.  Power boaters are anxious to open the throttle and blast their way into the Sound.  Daysailors are tacking back and forth across the channel with no particular destination in mind.  The harbor cruise boats are loaded with tourists.  Jet ski enthusiasts are attempting to catch air off the wakes of the powerboats.  And if that isn't quite enough activity, aviators are flying their ultralights just above the masts of the larger sailboats.  Despite the confusion, it feels good to return to Newport.

Our efforts to secure a mooring in the harbor are rebuffed.  All of the moorings are filled and there is very limited space to anchor in the harbor...not unusual for a summer weekend in Newport.  We find a space to anchor Cutter Loose, but it is admittedly tight given the proximity of anchored boats.  Anchoring close to other boats on short scope is never an ideal situation, but especially so because the weather forecast for tomorrow is calling for a 30 knot blow.  In a storm, dragging anchors can create a bad case of bumper boats in the harbor.  While we are waiting for the anchor to settle in, the Newport harbormaster stops by to pay a visit.  This is not a good sign.  The harbormaster strictly controls anchoring in the harbor.  We assume that he is here to discourage us from anchoring in such a tight spot.  But instead, Mr. Harbormaster is here to deliver good news.  He explains that a mooring just became available that will accommodate Cutter Loose, and he agrees to personally guide us to our destination through the maze of moorings in the harbor.  As it turns out, this is no ordinary mooring.  It is a heavy duty Judy with double mooring lines (one for each bow cleat), designed for vessels up to 75 feet in length.  We breathe a sigh of relief, knowing that 30 knots of breeze are no match for this mooring.

With a feeling of exuberance, we dinghy to Ann Street pier.  We attend the 5 PM mass at the architecturally magnificent St. Mary's Cathedral, site of the wedding of John Kennedy and Jacqueline Bouvier in 1953.  After an Italian meal at a sidewalk cafe and a stroll along the waterfront, we return to Cutter Loose at dusk. 

We will remain in Newport for a few days while a cold front passes through the area.  During the past five days, Cutter Loose has traveled a total of 263 miles.  The prospect of a few days of r and r in one of our favorite harbor towns is quite appealing.  This pause will refresh our spirits for the final push to the Chesapeake Bay.

[caption id="attachment_1318" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="St. Mary's Cathedral in Newport"][/caption]

Friday, August 19th

Wind against current, always a deterrent.  This old mariner's addage became our watchword for the day.

We depart Scituate Harbor at 8 AM with the goal of arriving at the Cape Cod Bay entrance to the Cape Cod Canal at 2 PM when the current turns westward.  The morning begins with 8 knots of wind on our beam.  Within 10 miles of the entrance to the Canal, Cutter Loose is plowing into 20 knot headwinds.  The water in the lee of the Cape is smothered in whitecaps, but the wave height is minimal.  We make good progress and enter the Canal 30 minutes ahead of schedule.  So far, so good.

[caption id="attachment_1307" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Transiting the Cape Cod Canal"][/caption]

As we enter the Canal, there is one knot of adverse current on our bow.  This situation quickly changes to slack current before the ebb begins in earnest.  Within minutes, we are riding two knots of favorable current through the Canal towards Buzzards Bay.  We are greeted with 18 knots of wind on our bow as we exit the Canal.  This is not at all unusual for Buzzards Bay, where summer afternoon breezes out of the southwest can reach 30 knots.  By this time, Cutter Loose is riding 4 knots of favorable ebb current.  Eighteen knots of wind stacking up against 4 knots of current creates a wall of short, steep waves on our nose as we enter Buzzards Bay.  It is as if we are riding a bucking bronco in a rodeo.  Each time the bow crashes into a wave, a spray of salt water covers the foredeck.  In the larger waves, our forward progress slows to two knots.  Cutter Loose regains momentum in the smaller waves, only to be stalled by a larger wave.  Buzzards Bay is living up to its nasty reputation.

While our progress was impeded, we never felt threatened or uncomfortable as a result of the conditions on Buzzards Bay.  Wind and wave gradually diminish in late afternoon.  At 6 PM, Cutter Loose is anchored securely in Hadley Harbor, a hurricane hole of an anchorage near Woods Hole.  The evening sky is cloudy.  Sirius marine weather radar shows a line of showers and thunderstorms moving northeast in Long Island Sound.  We are hoping for a steady, all-night downpour to rinse the accumulation of salt from the boat.

Thursday, August 18th

[caption id="attachment_1292" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Scituate Lighthouse"][/caption]

The anchor is up at 6:30 AM in Gosport Harbor, Isles of Shoals.  Today, we leave Maine and enter New Hampshire en route to Scituate, Massachusetts, 51 miles to the southwest.  Logistically, overnighting in Scituate Harbor positions Cutter Loose to transit the Cape Cod Canal tomorrow.  Our southerly course takes us past Cape Ann and through Massachusetts Bay with the Boston skyline on our starboard beam.  Scituate is less of a tourist attraction and more of a suburban village within commuting distance of Boston.  It offers a grocery store, a handful of restaurants and an abundance of retail shops geared towards local consumers.

The dynamics of the voyage change dramatically once south of Portland.  The remote rocky ledges, whales and seals of northern Maine give way to the more urban and crowded harbors of southern New England.  Every passage through the nooks and crannies of Downeast Maine requires meticulous attention to navigational detail.   Since leaving Booth Bay, our course takes us five to ten miles offshore in deep water where the autopilot earns its keep.  Once the waypoints are entered, our task is simply to watch for traffic and the occasional lobster float.  This provides valuable downtime for reading and catching up on correspondence.  

One downside of returning to the Chesapeake Bay is that our southwest course frequently conflicts with prevailing southwest winds.  We are powering, not sailing our way to the Chesapeake Bay.  This increases fuel consumption and reduces boat speed.  But motoring is beneficial in the sense that the house battery bank on Cutter Loose remains fully charged.  The solar collectors are highly efficient on sunny days.  But on foggy and rainy days, the panels are less productive.  Successive days on anchor in Downeast Maine increased our reliance on the diesel generator to keep the house batteries charged. 

Air and water temperature have increased south of Portland.  Unlike Maine, there has been no need for fleece in August in Massachusetts.  Warmer water temperatures mean less condensation in storage bins below the waterline.  In Downeast Maine, the relative humidity is frequently 100%.  Nothing is ever completely dry.  Storage areas must be routinely inspected, ventilated and cleaned with a bleach solution to combat musty odors, mildew and mold.  This is especially true of bins below the waterline which remain cool and damp because the fiberglass hull of Cutter Loose does little to insulate the inside of the boat from the cold water temperatures.  Visiting Downeast Maine requires extra care and attention, especially with the ubiquitous lobster floats.  But the rewards are well worth the effort.

Tomorrow's weather forecast sounds promising in terms of our plan to transit the Cape Cod Canal.

Wednesday, August 17th

With light winds and sunny skies, today is an ideal day to travel.  But first, the luxury of a slip demands that we give Cutter Loose a bath...a decision that we would later regret.

The short option for today is Portland.  But the favorable weather motivates us to reach for Gosport Harbor in the Isles of Shoals.  We are familiar with this anchorage having visited this harbor for a few days in mid-July.  Our late departure from Boothbay will translate into a late arrival in the Isles of Shoals.  This is risky because there are no lighted aids to navigation to ease our entrance into Gosport Harbor.  But we decide to give it a go with the backup plan of entering the nearby harbor at Portsmouth, NH which is well marked with lighted aids.  

As fate would have it, the boat wash back in Boothbay turns out to be for naught.  Throughout the afternoon, a pesky swell from the south causes seawater to lick the bowsprit and foredeck of Cutter Loose.  We are still 5 miles from Gosport Harbor as the sun disappears below the horizon.  A prolonged dusk and an early moonrise would be a nice touch at the end of this long day.  But to our dismay, a layer of low clouds brings a rapid conclusion to the supply of daylight.  Using electronic charts and radar, we enter the harbor in near darkness.  All of the moorings appear to be utilized, so we opt to drop the anchor just outside the mooring field.  The anchor is down in total darkness at 8:40 PM.  If we had dispensed with the boat wash in Boothbay, this landfall would have been much less complicated.

Nevertheless, we accumulate 75 miles for the day and sharpen our navigation skills in the process...a reasonable accomplishment under any circumstance.

Tuesday, August 16th

It was a rolly, windy, noisy night aboard Cutter Loose in Camden Harbor.  Northeasterly winds, rain and fog remain in the area at daybreak.  A small craft advisory has been issued and remains in effect for Penobscot Bay.  The weather gods of Maine are shouting "hold on there, Cutter Loose...don't be in such a hurry to leave".

[caption id="attachment_1276" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="The sun makes an early evening appearance in Boothbay Harbor"][/caption]

At 11 AM, visibility increases to one mile in fog and rain.  We take advantage of this window to make southwesterly progress.  But the rain resumes almost as soon as Cutter Loose is out of the harbor.  The short option for today is Tenants Harbor.  But we decide to continue on to Boothbay Harbor in the rain, despite our late departure from Camden.

Our course takes us southwest, out of Penobscot Bay and into the mouth of Muscongus Bay where we enjoy a beam reach in 12 knots of wind.  We transit Fisherman's Passage, a shortcut through a cluster of islands known as the Hypocrites.  At 6:15 PM, we arrive in Boothbay Harbor where the sun peaks through the clouds to make its first appearance of the day.  Our friends Hayden and Radeen graciously arrange a slip for Cutter Loose at the docks of the local Island Packet dealer. 

[caption id="attachment_1277" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Classic ketch catching the last few rays of sun in Boothbay Harbor"][/caption]

Dinner ashore tonight is with the crews of Island Spirit and Drake's Passage.  Reaching Boothbay Harbor exceeded our expectation.  With 43 miles under the keel today, our return to the Chesapeake Bay is off to a productive start.

Monday, August 15th - lay day in Camden

Today is a day for staying put in Camden.  A Canadian cold front is approaching from the Northwest.  Showers and thunderstorms are moving through the mid coast of Maine ahead of this front.  A low pressure center over Newport and another low pressure center to the southeast of Nova Scotia contribute to this unattractive weather picture.  The intensity of the rain has increased steadily throughout the day.  Winds are now picking up out of the northeast, causing Cutter Loose to pitch at her mooring.  Like the wakes from lobster boats at 5 AM, nor'easters are part of the Maine experience.

We travel across the harbor to top off our fuel and water tanks at Wayfarer Marine.  As soon as there is a break in the weather, we will begin our return to the Chesapeake Bay.   

Despite the fact that we are snugly moored in the most attractive harbor of Penobscot Bay, the mindset of the cruise has already shifted.  The discovery phase has come to an end.  The relaxing 15 mile daysails and remote anchorages will soon be replaced by early morning departures and longer days on the water.   The casual three and four day samplings of shoreside attractions will give way to a series of quick one night stands at strategic locations not far off of the beaten path.  Soon we will resemble cows...picking up the pace as we return to the barn.

Once this weather system moves offshore and we are underway again, we will set our sights on Rock Hall.  A new goal will generate a different type of enthusiasm.   In the meantime, a touch of melancholy in anticipation of our departure is a fitting tribute as we recall the indescribable experience of sailing the bays, islands and thorofares of midcoast Maine.

Sunday, August 14th

[caption id="attachment_1241" align="alignleft" width="260" caption="First Congregational Church in Camden, ME"][/caption]

Sunday morning in Camden finds us at the First Congregational Church on Elm Street.  Today's service acknowledges the contribution of Tom Mueller, the church's 27 year old Minister of Music.  Tom is leaving Camden to pursue a doctoral degree in organ performance at the Eastman School of Music in Rochester, NY while also serving as Assistant Director of Music at Third Presbyterian in Rochester.  By the music at today's service and the outpouring of gratitude and well wishes from the parishioners, it is clear that this young man is adored by this congregation.  His impressive prelude and postlude (both J.S. Bach) demonstrate his mastery of the church's pipe organ.  The minister delivers an upbeat message on the transformational role of music in our lives.  We are touched by the heart-felt emotion expressed during this service.

[caption id="attachment_1243" align="alignright" width="225" caption="Savoring the memories of the Windjammer fleet"][/caption]

Sunday is turnover day in the Windjammer fleet in Camden Harbor.  Last week's passengers have departed.  Crews are busy cleaning and preparing for the arrival of  new passengers for the coming week.  During the past three weeks, we have thoroughly enjoyed anchoring amongst the old schooners and watching the skippers deftly maneuver these large vessels through the narrowest of passageways between the islands and ledges.  On Monday mornings, the Windjammers sail to eastern destinations from Camden.  Since Cutter Loose is headed southwest from Camden, it is our final opportunity to be in their company.  We linger in the harbor, soaking in the views and the buzz of activity.  Overhead, the skies are becoming cloudy.

Laundry and provisioning dominate the afternoon.  By late afternoon, a few sprinkles are beginning to fall.  We are watching a low pressure system that will make its way through New England tonight and tomorrow, bringing with it a high likelihood of showers.  We will plan our departure from Camden accordingly.

[caption id="attachment_1242" align="aligncenter" width="225" caption="Main Street in Camden"][/caption]

Saturday, August 13th

The anchor is up at 8 AM.  The sky is clear.  Cutter Loose is en route to Camden, 26 miles to the west.   We resume our passage through Deer Island Thorofare to East Penobscot Bay.  The shortest route to Camden from East Penobscot Bay is through yet another east-west passageway known as the Fox Island Thorofare.  This shortcut separates North Haven Island from Vinalhaven Island to the south.  Once through the thorofare, our course takes us north to Camden via West Penobscot Bay.  By noon, Cutter Loose is moored in Camden Harbor.

[caption id="attachment_1224" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pat meets author David McCullough and his daughter, seated on his right"][/caption]

With the boat secure, we dinghy into the town dock en route to the 1:30 PM lecture at the Opera House by historian, author and Pittsburgh native David McCullough.  The lecture is a fundraiser sponsored by the Camden Public Library.  The event is a sellout.  Being transients, we have no tickets.  We are placed on a waiting list to fill the seats of no-shows.  At the very last minute, we succeed in securing two seats in the very last row.  

Mr. McCullough was introduced by his daughter, a resident of Camden, a writer in her own right and a Trustee of the Camden Library.  Today's lecture is a summary of McCullough's latest book, The Greater Journey.  In his book,  McCullough documents the lives and contributions of various American authors, playrights, educators, architects, artists and politicians that devoted a period of their lives to live and study in Paris.  The book explains how our country profoundly benefitted from the Parisian influence imported to the U.S. by these expatriates.   It was well worth the last ditch effort to attend this lecture.  McCullough has the knack of making history come alive through informal storytelling.  

[caption id="attachment_1226" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of the harbor from the Camden Public Library"][/caption]

After the lecture, we attend a booksigning event at the Camden Public Library.  We are now the proud new owners of a copy of The Greater Journey, autographed by the author.

Friday, August 12th

This morning we bid a fond farewell to Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park.  Regrettably, we have completed our easting on this journey.  We have heard fascinating accounts from fellow sailors that have recently returned from points east, including Campobello Island, Grand Manan Island, St. Johns, Nova Scotia, PEI and Newfoundland.  We must save these destinations for a subsequent voyage.

We will revisit Camden before retracing our steps to the Chesapeake Bay.  Our journey today takes us 21 miles west in the general direction of Penobscot Bay.  This will position us for an easy run into Camden on Saturday.  Our destination today is Deer Island Thorofare.

Like Merchant's Row, Deer Island Thorofare is another meandering east-west passageway or shortcut between Blue Hill Bay and Penobscot Bay.  These waters are dotted with islands and ledges.  Some obstructions are marked with buoyage while others are not.  This passage requires close attention to the charts, but the visual rewards are well worth the effort.  The scenery in the thorofare is stunning.

Cutter Loose is anchored just off the thorofare in a cove formed by Camp Island, Devil Island and Bold Island.  This anchorage is just a few miles east of the lobstering village of Stonington.  But there is a remote feel to this cove.  A Windjammer schooner is anchored nearby.  The crew shuttles its passengers ashore for a picnic dinner on the beach.  At sunset, we witness the rise of a full moon in the east. 

[caption id="attachment_1195" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Anchorage at Camp Island"][/caption]

Thursday, August 11th

The precipitation has moved on, but a thick layer of clouds cover the area today.  Our destination is nearby Southwest Harbor.  Unlike Northeast Harbor which is narrow and very well protected, Southwest is broad and exposed to the east.  Since the weather is settled today, the exposure should not be a factor.  Cutter Loose is bobbing on a mooring  at the Hinckley Boat Yard, custom builder of high end sailing and power yachts. 

Shortly after our arrival in the harbor, we witness a dramatic rescue effort.  It begins with an impassioned plea for emergency assistance transmitted on VHF 16.  A sailing vessel in nearby Western Way is hailing the Coast Guard here in Southwest Harbor.  The vessel in distress reports that it is quickly taking on water and that four inches of water now cover the cabin floor.  The captain and four passengers are preparing to abandon ship.  We listen in to the conversation between the Coast Guard and the panicky skipper.  Within minutes, the Coast Guard musters a 40 foot rescue vessel which passes at full speed within 100 yards of Cutter Loose en route to the vessel in distress, a distance of about a mile from the harbor.  

In the meantime, we take the dinghy into Hinckley's dock to pay our mooring fee.  While we are in the dockmaster's office, the Coast Guard delivers the shaken passengers to the Hinckley dock.  The Hinckley yard crew springs into action by preparing its travelift to accept the stricken vessel.  Under its own power, the sailboat approaches the lift, its bow riding very low in the water.  Coast Guard personnel are on board operating portable pumps and helping to guide the boat into the slings of the waiting travelift.  Seawater is pouring from the hull when the boat is hauled into the yard.  It becomes apparent that water entered the boat through a four inch round hole in the hull where the knotmeter transducer was previously located.  The crew is very fortunate that this potentially catastrophhic event occured in calm seas and within a mile of a Coast Guard station.

[caption id="attachment_1181" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="View from Valley Peak"][/caption]

It is a long dinghy ride from the Hinckley mooring to the town dock.  We have budgeted time for one more hike before we leave Acadia National Park.  The island bus takes us north on Route 102 to the St. Sauveur trailhead.  We hike to the twin peaks of St. Sauveur and Valley Peak.  For a brief moment, the sun makes an appearance just as we arrive at the summit of Valley Peak.  Our descent takes us to Fernald Cove where we return to town by way of the footbridge over Norwood Cove. 

We are hoping for clear weather in the morning to continue our journey west.

Wednesday, August 10th - lay day in Northeast Harbor

Showers begin before dawn and remain in the area for the entire day.  The high temperature today is 60 degrees.  It is a day for reading, relaxing and accomplishing boat chores.  In the afternoon, we don our foulies for a visit to the Northeast Harbor Library.

Riding the coattails of Radeen and Hayden, we are the beneficiaries of a generous invitation to dinner at the home of Linda, Ray and Tristan at their summer home in nearby Seal Harbor.  Tristan is entering his senior year at Pitt and he is quick to provide us with season forecasts for the Panther football and basketball teams.  After dinner, we are introduced to the word game Bananagram.  We enjoy the warmth and hospitality of this evening's outing.

We return to the boat in misty darkness.  This form of precipitation is not as fluid as a rain shower.  It is liquid fog that is just heavy enough to fall to earth.

Tuesday, August 9th - lay day in Northeast Harbor

It is a blue sky day in coastal Maine today.  The priority for this morning is reprovisioning the galley.  This involves a bus trip to Bar Harbor, a stop for a hearty breakfast at Cafe This Way, shopping at the local foodstore and a return bus ride to Northeast Harbor.  This task consumes the morning.

[caption id="attachment_1165" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Pat's futile attempt to dislodge Bubble Rock"][/caption]

Clouds are beginning to move into the area from the northwest as we begin our hike to Bubble Rock.  The ascent is short and easy.  This is one of the most highly utilized trails in Acadia National Park because it offers the greatest reward in terms of scenery for the least amount of effort.  At the summit, Bubble Rock is perched precariously at the edge of a cliff.  The view of Jordan Pond and the ocean beyond is outstanding.  The southern descent to Jordan Pond is easy with the exception of one steep, narrow passageway that requires careful footing.  We complete our final hike at Acadia with a walk along pristine Jordan Pond.

[caption id="attachment_1166" align="alignright" width="300" caption="View of Jordan Pond from the summit of South Bubble"][/caption]

Tonight we enjoy dinner aboard Cutter Loose with Hayden and Radeen.  Increasing cloudiness obliterates the stars tonight.  Rain is expected after midnight.

[caption id="attachment_1167" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Loony resident of Jordan Pond"][/caption]

Monday, August 8th

[caption id="attachment_1155" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sharing a float in Northeast Harbor"][/caption]

What a difference a day makes.  The rain has finally come to an end and  skies are clearing.  We travel the short distance from Little Cranberry Island to Northeast Harbor where Cutter Loose is sharing a float in the harbor with friends Hayden and Radeen Cochran aboard Island Spirit.   The term float does not refer to an ice cream concoction, but rather a 30 foot section of floating dock that is secured to the bottom of the harbor with a series of mooring anchors.  One boat uses docklines to tie along one side of the float and the other boat does likewise on the opposite side of the float. 

The afternoon evaporates in the local laundromat.  In a harbor town, the public laundry functions in part as an environment for swapping information with other transient sailors.  Northeast Harbor, in particular, is an interesting place to wash and dry clothes because it is the first stop for sailors returning to the U.S. from various Downeast and Canadian destinations.  Today we learn about the sailing adventures of an Ohio couple who recently arrived in Northeast Harbor from St. Johns, New Brunswick where they spent the summer cruising inland lakes.  They are also veterans of a transatlantic crossing and several years of cruising in Europe.  Four crewmembers of another boat anxiously provide a detailed account of their recently completed cruise to Nova Scotia.  Sailors enjoy nothing more than describing their accomplishments with anybody that will listen.  These conversations help to pass the time waiting for clothes to dry and inspire us to think about more challenging destinations.

We end the day by visiting with friends of Hayden and Radeen that own a summer home in Seal Harbor, just a few miles away.  They have been visiting Mt. Desert Island for over three decades and are familiar with most of the hiking trails in the Park.  We use their insights to plan tomorrow's adventure.  The night sky is crystal clear and filled with constellations.  Tomorrow should be an excellent day to sample the trails of Acadia.

Sunday, August 7th

[caption id="attachment_1141" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A rainy day at anchor in Isleford, Little Cranberry Island"][/caption]

There is no need to be overly concerned about the threat of skin cancer today.  It has been raining continuously for sixteen hours.  Today is our first total rainout in 66 days of cruising.  We have no grounds to complain about the weather.  In general, the temperatures have been delightful and we have been blessed with an abundance of sunny days.

[caption id="attachment_1142" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Penobscot Bay, Blue Hill Bay and Frenchman Bay; outstanding sailing grounds in Downeast Maine"][/caption]

We take advantage of this break in the action to catch up on correspondence, boat chores, balancing the checkbook and paying bills.  We pause to reflect on the places we have visited, the people we have met, the stunning scenery that has inspired us, the lessons we've learned and the liveaboard lifestyle in general.  The past three weeks, in particular, have confirmed the accuracy of the State slogan "Maine...the way life should be".

Our time of relaxed daysails and shoreside adventures in Downeast Maine is sadly coming to an end.  We have one more week to cruise Penobscot Bay and the Mount Desert area before commencing our return to the Chesapeake Bay.  In the time that remains, we will visit some familiar places, sail the prevailing wind and experience as much of this special place as humanly possible.

Saturday, August 6th

[caption id="attachment_1133" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Project underway at the Wooden Boat School"][/caption]

While the vintage race fleet heads for the starting line in Eggemoggin Reach, we dinghy ashore to visit the Wooden Boat School.  Inside, students of all ages are working on their boatbuilding projects.  Some are working on canoes and kayaks while others are working on daysailers.  Instructors hover nearby to offer advice to the students.

Today we enjoy a delightful sail 19 miles east to Isleford Harbor at Little Cranberry Island.  With 12 knot winds from the southwest on her beam, Cutter Loose reaches comfortably across Jericho Bay, through the well-marked channel of Casco Passage and into Blue Hill Bay.  Once past the safe water markers at Bass Head Light, our course takes us north into Western Way.  This route is familiar to us since we sailed these waters 10 days ago en route to Somes Sound and Northeast Harbor.  But today, we elect to anchor in Islesford Harbor as a staging area for our eventual return to Northeast Harbor.

As if on cue, a thick blanket of fog covers the harbor within an hour of our arrival.  The forecast is for unsettled weather during the next few days.

Friday, August 5th

[caption id="attachment_1121" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="View of Penobscot Bay from atop Duck Harbor Mountain"][/caption]

At 9 AM, we hit the trail and begin our ascent to Duck Harbor Mountain.  At 314 feet above sea level, the summit offers a commanding view of Penobscot Bay.  The top of the mast of Cutter Loose is barely visible from this vantage point.  The trail descends through the lush forest floor to Squeaker Cove on the southeast coast of Isle au Haut.  Here, the granite boulders have been reduced to smooth pebbles by the nor'easters that ravage this coast in winter.  Incredibly, driftwood has been deposited on a shelf 40 feet above the high tide mark, evidence of storm surge.  We return to the harbor by way of Goat Trail and a park service road, a total distance of about 3 miles.

After lunch, we sail north in tandem with Island Spirit towards Merchant Row, a well-marked east-west passageway amongst hundreds of ledges and small uninhabited islands that leads from Penobscot Bay to Jericho Bay.  The shoreline of the islands in Merchant Row are a gleaming white marble, giving the appearance of sunny beaches.  A 12 knot southerly wind  translates to a liesurely broad reach through this pristine passageway.  This afternoon's sail through Merchant Row will be one of the most memorable experiences of our journey.

Our destination today is the Wooden Boat School at the eastern entrance to Eggemoggin Reach near the tiny crossroads community of Brooklin on the mainland.  This is a school that teaches the art of wooden boatbuilding.  New Englanders are fond of classic wooden sailboats and this school promotes the preservation of traditional watercraft through education and through the publication of Wooden Boat magazine.

[caption id="attachment_1119" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Classic wooden yacht nearing the finish line in Eggemoggin Reach"][/caption]

The Wooden Boat School is the host of the Eggemoggin Regatta, a series of races for classic wooden boats scheduled for this weekend.  This will be a good opportunity to observe a large armada of classic wooden sailing yachts.  As we draw closer to our anchorage, a loud voice from astern urges us to bear off.  It finally dawns on us that a sailboat race is already underway and that Cutter Loose is in the middle of the race course nearing the finishing line.  Once at anchor, we look on as one classic yacht after another passes the finishing line.   It is a treat to be in the company of these elegant vintage sailboats.

Thursday, August 4th

Today we sail 18 miles southwest from Swan's Island to Acadia National Park.  Not the well-known Acadia National Park at Mt. Desert Island, but rather the lesser known portion of the park on the rugged island of Isle au Haut (rhymes with doe).   The explorer Champlain named this island in 1604.

Our destination is Duck Harbor located on the southwest coast of Isle a Haut.  The skies are overcast today and there is a threat of rain.  The seas are calm, there is no fog and there are plenty of buoys along our route to guide us away from the shallow ledges, which means that navigation comes easy today.  We can relax and enjoy the sail.

Duck Harbor is a tiny cove with deepwater space for only a few boats.  The harbor is eerily empty when we arrive at midday.  Other than a small ferry dock in the middle of the harbor, there are no signs of civilization here.  No cell phone connection.  No Internet connection.  Not even a duck.  It is a wonderful desolate place surrounded by wooded cliffs. 

Duck Harbor provides access to hiking trails and primitive campsites within the National Park.  The ferry from Stonington makes two trips each day.  In order to protect the fragile landscape, visitors to the Isle au Haut portion of Acadia National Park are limited to 50 each day.

[caption id="attachment_1105" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Island Spirit and Cutter Loose at anchor in Duck Harbor, Isle au Haut"][/caption]

A few other boats trickle into the harbor.  By previous arrangement, one of them is the sailing vessel Island Spirit with friends Radeen and Hayden Cochran on board.  They recently arrived in Penobscot Bay from our mutual home port of Rock Hall, MD.  We have known Hayden and Radeen since 1992 when our boats were docked next to one another at Spring Cove Marina in Rock Hall. 

[caption id="attachment_1104" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Friends Hayden and Radeen Cochran at Duck Harbor"][/caption]

The day passes quickly, swapping stories, sharing information and planning future sailing itineraries with Hayden and Radeen.  The discussion continues over dinner aboard Cutter Loose.  The natural beauty of Duck Harbor provides the perfect setting for this rendezvous.

Wednesday, August 3rd - lay day at Swan's Island

[caption id="attachment_1091" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Burnt Coat Harbor, Swan's Island"][/caption]

This morning, we awake to the Maine alarm clock...the sound of lobster boats leaving the harbor at 6 AM for the daily crusteacean harvest.  Our exercise for the day is a three hour round trip hike to the opposite side of the harbor.  It is a gorgeous day for a hike with sunny skies and a high temperature in the mid-seventies.  Without exception, all of the motorists on the island wave to us.  A woman in a Volvo station wagon stops to offer us a ride.  In the harbor, even the lobstermen take time to wave.  Swan Islanders are a friendly bunch. 

[caption id="attachment_1092" align="alignright" width="300" caption="Cutter Loose anchored with the Windjammer fleet at Swan's Island"][/caption]

Three anchored Windjammers surround Cutter Loose when we return from our hike.  There is yet another roving afternoon serenade in the harbor.  Everyone is eagerly anticipating tonight's concert.

[caption id="attachment_1093" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Sweet Chariot Music Festival at the Oddfellow's Club on Swan's Island"][/caption]

The 7:30 PM performance takes place at the Odd Fellow's Club, a rustic community center located one mile from the harbor.  A room with a stage on the third floor of this building seats about 200 people.  Everybody seems to know one another.  This is clearly the social event of the season...not so much for the lobstermen but primarily for the summer folks.

Swan's Island has hosted the Sweet Chariot Music Festival for 20 years.  The musicians arrive here from Ohio, Vermont, Massachusetts and Maine.  Local residents provide housing and meals for the performers.  From outward appearances, many of these musicians and singers probably performed in coffee houses and rock and roll bands in the sixties.  But to their credit, they are excellent entertainers.  Some of the acts are duets and trios while others involve collaborations of performers.  There is a heavy emphasis on folk songs and country music with acoustic guitar, banjo, mandolin, keyboard and percussion accompaniment...not unlike the type of music performed on the popular public radio show, A Prarie Home Companion hosted by Garrison Keillor.   The audience is very enthusiastic and the music continues until 10:45 PM, well worth the price of admission and an unbelievable production given the remote location of this island.

The walk back to the dinghy dock is dark.  Cloud cover conceals the moon and stars.  It is 11:30 PM when we return by dinghy to Cutter Loose.  For a place that lacks the basic amenities of a restaurant or a marina, Swan Islanders sure know how to stage a music festival.  It has been an unforgettable evening.

Tuesday, August 2nd

At 2 AM, our sleep is interrupted by thunder and lightning.  The wind freshens.  Cutter Loose is tugging at her mooring.  A brief episode of hail precedes the rainfall.  Within an hour, the line of thunderstorms moves to the east and northeasterly winds fill in behind the front. 

Lunt Harbor is ensconced in heavy fog at daybreak.  By late morning, visibility improves to one-half mile.  This is as good as it gets for today.  We sieze this opportunity to move on to our next destination...Burnt Coat Harbor on Swan's Island.  In low visibility, we navigate by radar and electronic chart from Frenchboro to enter this well protected harbor.   

In Massachusetts, navigating by radar in fog primarily involves avoiding collisions with other vessels.  In Maine, radar echoes to be avoided include not only other vessels, but exposed ledges (i.e., small rocky islands) as well.  Only the major ledges are identified with buoyage or other aids to navigation.  To make matters even more challenging, some of the ledges are exposed only at low tide.  At high tide, they lurk just under the surface, waiting to snare the unwary mariner.  Under these circumstances, it is easy to become disoriented when navigating by instrument during periods of low visibility.   

During the first few days of August every year, Swan's Island is host to the Sweet Chariot Music Festival.  The island is accessible only by boat.  While there is ferry service to the island from Bass Harbor on Mount Desert Island, it does not operate at night.  The evening concerts are held at the Oddfellow's Hall.  There is only one way to attend this festival and that is by private boat with dinghy.

When we arrive at Swan's Island at 2 PM, there are already some 25 boats in the harbor.  Since all of the rental moorings are occupied, we anchor Cutter Loose on the west side of the harbor just beyond the mooring area.  Boats continue to arrive throughout the afternoon, including two Windjammer schooners that anchor nearby. 

[caption id="attachment_1076" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="A floating chorus in Burnt Coat Harbor"][/caption]

Our mid-afternoon harbor entertainment takes the form of traditional sea shanties being performed by roving folk singers and musicians.  A decorated sailboat, packed with singers, meanders its way through the harbor serenading each anchored boat.  For an encore, the sun makes a welcome appearance in late afternoon.

We will explore Swan's Island tomorrow, including the 7:30 PM concert at the Oddfellows Hall.

Monday, August 1st

It is the beginning of a brand new month and a reminder that our time here in the cruising paradise of Penobscot, Blue Hill and Frenchman Bays will be coming to an end all too soon.  We must make the most out of the next two weeks. 

[caption id="attachment_1054" align="alignleft" width="300" caption="Lunt Harbor, Frenchboro"][/caption]

We will eventually return to Northeast Harbor to enjoy the delights of Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park, probably sooner rather than later.  But today, we sail 10 miles south to visit the tiny settlement of Frenchboro on Long Island.  The population of Long Island is about 65.  This is a lobstering community, but there are a few extra moorings in Lunt Harbor for visitors.  There is a small ferry that provides service from Frenchboro to Swans Island.

[caption id="attachment_1056" align="alignright" width="300" caption="A foggy hike along the rocky coastline of Long island"][/caption]

We begin and end our journey today in fog.  We dinghy ashore to the lobster dock and hike along the coastal trail to Northeast Point and Eastern Beach.  The coast is rocky and rugged, except that Eastern Beach is covered with small stones, polished by the constant punishment from the waves.  The seas today are calm.  We try to imagine this scene during the height of a winter nor'easter.

Frenchboro is an interesting place.  Children are educated at a school on the island up to grade 7.  Beginning in the eighth grade, Frenchboro children move to the mainland where they pay room and board to continue their education.  The State of Maine pays for their tuition.

[caption id="attachment_1055" align="alignleft" width="225" caption="Community church at Frenchboro"][/caption]

Some Frenchboro residents are fearful that the way of life in this community may be headed for extinction, as fewer children choose to return to the island once they complete their education.  In recent years, islanders have attempted to attract new families to the community.  A grant was recently received from the State to build homes to attract new residents.  But the winters here are long, damp and windy.  It takes a special kind of family to move here and a courageous family to remain here.

One such family is Tammy and Jay DesJardin and their three children who operate a small restaurant in Lunt Harbor.  Tammy serves us two freshly steamed softshell lobsters harvested earlier today by Jay and his son.  This is the best tasting, most reasonably priced steamed lobster that we have ever experienced. 

[caption id="attachment_1057" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Tammy DesJardin steams up some delectable lobster at the Offshore Store and More in Lunt Harbor"][/caption]

Back aboard Cutter Loose, there is zero visibility in Lunt Harbor.  Another cold front will pass through the area tonight, bringing with it a chance of showers and thunderstorms.  In an era of cookie cutter communities and big box retailers, we are thankful for the opportunity to visit places such as Frenchboro.